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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: September 28, 2018, 1:11 pm 
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Joined: May 1, 2016, 2:59 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Alberta
I will JD, just sorting through pictures, finishing up house projects (85% is good enough seems to be my motto there and the wife has had enough of that!) and finally cleaning the garage!

I still want to see more of Lefty's work! I've been watching the videos, just saw the one where he goes to get more metal for the frame in the snow and thought, hey, that stuffs coming round again pretty quick, I'd better git 'er done so I can git something done myself!

More Lefty please!

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PostPosted: September 28, 2018, 1:25 pm 
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Haha, the snow is back around here and I am not impressed by it. I am hoping to get a few more junkyard runs in before it gets too cold but that may be a pipe dream.
I have started on something that I believe every builder struggles with, getting seats to fit! The only real options I have found are Kirkeys (expensive, not comfortable for multiple people, makes it look race car) or homemade "squabs" (don't look real factory, I question the comfort, not the look I am going for). So the plan I have is to build custom fiberglass bucket seats and upholster to suit the look of the car. This should allow me to mount them on adjustable rails, and have harness slots for a 4-point.
I have built some foam cores that I will fiberglass over to make the shells, I just need to figure out the padding and upholstery, and mounting solution.
I should have a video up of how I built these on Oct 5th.
Attachment:
FoamSeatCore.JPG


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PostPosted: September 28, 2018, 1:59 pm 
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Joined: May 1, 2016, 2:59 pm
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Location: Alberta
Looking good!

I've been struggling with the seat thing from the start of my planning phase (which I'm stuck in!). I originally thought of Corbeaus but couldn't justify the price. In the end I bought a pair of Jegs own brand which I think I'll try to build around, otherwise I'm going the same(ish) route as you - I'm interested to see what you use for foam (and where you get it!)

On another note - which pick-a-part do you like? I haven't used any other than here in 'The Windy City' where everything seems to be priced like it's made of gold! I need/want some more parts because there is still a little space in my garage!

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PostPosted: September 29, 2018, 8:44 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
I recognize the pink stuff!

Sheet insulation and fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin... Be sure to use epoxy resin, or you'll watch your sculpture melt away to pink goo. Most of the bodywork on the Slotus is made of that stuff. Sculpting the curves is the hard part... Your seat kinda gets away from that with the flat pieces and angles. It should lay up easier for it and be stronger as well. I used 6-oz bi-directional cloth, usually at least 3 layers, but up to 6 for high stress areas. I had some really light, silky stuff that I put over it to smooth the surface.

The cloth doesn't like to lie flat going around the outside of a 90* angle, as in wrapping around the edge of the foam. If you round off that edge, the cloth will lie flat around the curve and you can trim it off where it hangs over the 'square' corner and butt the cloth on the back up against it and trim to fit then use some epoxy like "caulking" to seal the joint.

You probably know all that... Just rambling... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: September 29, 2018, 11:04 am 
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90% of these forums are just the crazed ramblings of lunatics who think building cars is achievable for the common man (or woman), and by golly sometimes it works! Lol.
Thanks JD for the run down, I hadn't really thought about the square corner issue but it makes sense, I will round all my corners before lay up. I did do the research on resins and discovered the need for epoxy, so I mortgaged my house and bought a gallon of the stuff last week. After seeing the cost I will likely go poly resin on the hood, just have to coat the mold really good so the poly never touches the foam.
I took the seat from to an upholstery shop yesterday and got a quote on foam and covers at 500 bucks a seat! So I think I will take a stab at doing my own since foam only costs 50 bucks a sheet. If I really botch it up I can go back to getting covers made, or throw Kirkeys in it for the short term.
And Jinca, I go to pick n pull off Barlow in Calgary, huge selection but yes it is silly expensive, especially when you buy complete assemblies that you don't need. I currently have 6 brake rotors that I payed for but don't need! If I do this again I would absolutely start with a donar car.

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PostPosted: September 29, 2018, 4:43 pm 
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Joined: May 1, 2016, 2:59 pm
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Location: Alberta
Thanks Lefty, I'll have to check 'em out.

I went the donor route, trouble is I'm pretty fond of foxbody mustangs and now I can't let it go! I keep
going back and forth between getting another 8.8 and putting IRS in the fox. I should probably just do one thing at a time, but I hate waiting, so when I stall on one I can go tot he other - there's lots of bodywork to do on the fox after all! I also don't think a single donor would work, at least not for me. I want 5 lug wheels (more choice,) better brakes, etc. A different donor like the miata would be different, you could use lots. But a turbo Hyabusa would be nice too! I shoud probably stop planning my next build and finish, or start, this one!

Got the garage furnace cleaned and started today :D

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PostPosted: October 2, 2018, 11:38 am 
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Location: Alberta
Hey Curtis, I've been watching your build vlog. I have a question. How does your garage door open? I can see the tracks for it, but not for the lift mechanism - has it happened? have I gone chain drive blind?

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PostPosted: October 2, 2018, 12:18 pm 
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Hey Jinca
I have a jackshaft opener up by the shelves in the corner, I think it is a Liftmaster 8500 or something. I only have 8 foot ceilings (yes I have hit it with the engine crane, more than once) and a standard chain drive wouldn't fit above the door.

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PostPosted: October 3, 2018, 11:23 am 
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Well that explains it then!

Hey, where'dya get your band saw? I've been looking at the Bauer ones HF has and the similar one Princess Auto stocks - figure it'd be better than the noisy, smelly abrasive wheel!

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PostPosted: October 4, 2018, 10:43 am 
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Hey Jinca, the band saw is a General International from KMS Tools in Calgary. I got it for a few hundred bucks last year and it is way better than an abrasive chop saw! By using a band saw for tubing, a jig saw with metal blade for sheet metal, a belt sander for shaping, and TIG welder for joining, I have all but eliminated sparks and metal dust from my shop. This was critical as there tends to be multiple operations going on at a time and I don't want grinding dust in my hood mold ect.
This week I did start experimenting with some sheet metal, just making a little foot rest for under the pedals, and it cemented my need for a sheet metal brake! I will be picking one of those up ASAP.
Attachment:
FootRest1.JPG

Having that foot rest does make everything much more comfortable, and I will make sure to have one on both sides.


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PostPosted: October 5, 2018, 8:12 am 
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I started out with a relatively high foot rest, about 2 1/4", but after about 6 months, I ended up trimming the clutch side down so I could rest my Left foot under the pedal on longer drives. Also do not lock down the location, of the foot rest, until you start driving. A 1/4" change in fore/aft location makes a big change in pedal feel. The foot rest is well worth the effort. Davew


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PostPosted: October 5, 2018, 9:38 am 
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Thanks Dave, I think I built mine too high as well, it was a bit of a make work project late at night so I didn't really test the ergonomics before cutting steel. I will do a shorter and better quality one later once the seats and steering wheel are in.
I will also look into if I can stretch under the clutch, I think it will be quite low.

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PostPosted: October 11, 2018, 12:28 pm 
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Weekly Update, got a start on the transmission tunnel.
Attachment:
TunnelFromFront.JPG

I am using 3/4" round tubing for the tunnel structure in order to save weight, save space, soften corners, and most importantly look cool! I have also bent the rear most section of the top tubes up and out in order to make space for the diff while keeping the rest of the tunnel low enough to be comfortable. I will go in and cross brace and what not once I have the driveshaft made so that I can place my braces as driveshaft hoops for safety.
The biggest issue that I foresee with this design is attaching panels to the round tubing will be more difficult and may require a fair few tabs, but we will jump off that bridge when we come to it. The other issue is that there is now a complete hoop around the transmission that is shorter than the shifter, so to remove the trans I have to remove the shifter plate, but I plan to cut the trans crossmember and make it a bolt in piece once the car is off the chassis table.
Attachment:
TunnelFromRear.JPG

I have also been working on the foam buck for the hood, which is proving to be difficult to get symmetrical as there are no straight lines to reference from anymore. I will likely have to put it back on the chassis for a bit to make sure everything lines up and is square to the world before glassing it.
Attachment:
Foam Buck Oct10.JPG

Let me know what you guys think.


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PostPosted: October 15, 2018, 9:49 am 
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Lookin' really good Curtis! I like that you're making the front in one piece - my plan too. Off to watch the seats video :D

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PostPosted: October 15, 2018, 8:44 pm 
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Nice start to your build. And good job on the youtube videos..

Jeffco 1307lv resin is good stuff from aircraft spruce when you decide to re mortgage. Seems to be the best bang for the buck.. keep in mind only mix enough resin that you can work, about 4-8 oz at a time. For a nice finish, run a foam roller over the resin to soak up the excess while compressing the cloth.. most importantly have a large garbage bag ready for your waste.. and go buy your self a few boxes of nitrile gloves from costco.

Keep at er.

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