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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 18, 2011, 8:21 am 
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Man of Constant Hazard
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Can you pull it straight out the back? Or drop it back then down out the bottom?

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PostPosted: July 18, 2011, 10:11 am 
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Geez dude, you have got some mad welding skills. Looks great!

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PostPosted: July 19, 2011, 10:15 am 
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Really nice looking fab work Emile. That rack turned out really well.

erturbo wrote:
As always I appreciate you keeping an eye on me ;-) I have intended to either fill the stock rubber bushing in the diff with some sort of poly resin or just replace them with an aluminum bushing.


I would definitely go for the aluminum bushings. Even with resin, there will still be some compliance in the stock ones.

For where you cut the frame, any chance you could make some fabricated "arch" of sorts from sheet that you could finagle the diff around while installing it?

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PostPosted: July 31, 2011, 1:06 pm 
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Got a little bit more done this week. And... DRUM ROLL PLEASE...

I've set it on the ground and rolled it out into the sun for the first time EVER! :cheers:
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I resisted doing this for a long time, trying to focus on getting done everything I could while the chassis was still up on the build table. But the time came to do the floor pan, and instead of taking the engine and everything out up on the table, I figured it would be easier to do it on a set of short stands, which I'll whip up with some 1x1 and 1x2 tubing. Keep in mind I still don't have the correct wheels/tires and in place of springs I've cut some sections of PVC tubing, so the ride height and stance are far from correct. It still rolled really well, and I had more than enough steering lock to comfortably maneuver the car in and out of the garage.

It actually looks a bit bigger than I expected sitting next to my Subaru. But it's also significantly narrower than the wide-fendered rally wannabe :-)
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I also created a heat shield/mounting tray for the fuel tank
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And I bent some sections of aluminum to attach the tank to the shield
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And here's a shot of the relief for the tank's sump from below.
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More updates to follow, still need to take more pictures of some of the other projects I've been busy with!

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PostPosted: August 1, 2011, 12:06 pm 
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Awesome!!!

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PostPosted: August 2, 2011, 5:55 pm 
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Always Moore!
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Looks good. Just wait until the Locost is running - you will have a difficult choice each morning.

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PostPosted: August 21, 2011, 10:14 pm 
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Louisville's luckEseven Lauds Locosts
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After reaching the milestone of "rolling" it around (and possibly making Vroom Vroom noises... :roll: ) I decided to carry on with getting the frame as close to done as possible. That meant taking everything back off and getting it to where I could flip it upside down or on it's side, depending on what I'm working on.

I already had a set of jack stands kicking around in the garage, so I used those for the back. I decided instead of buying another pair of jack stands, I could make something simpler and sturdier out of material I had laying around. So I used my floor jack to set the height, jacking it all the way up and making the front stand height even with the back. This way I can use just a normal floor jack to put the car up on the high stands. It's a good height for working in the engine bay comfortably standing, while using a roll-around stool for servicing brakes/suspension, plus it's high enough to be able to lay under the car to change fluids and work under the car. :cheers:

Pic of the car on my homemade high stand
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Simple and solid
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Jack stands at the back of the chassis
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Welded an 1/8" wall section of tubing into the frame rails that the trans mount bolts go through to keep the bolts from squishing the tubes as the bolts are tightened. On the mount side the sleeve was welded flush and ground smooth, on the under side I left 1/8" sitting proud to be able to weld it a bit better. Here is the bottom side.
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And here is the smooth mount side.
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And here they are with the trans mount installed
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Another view of the trans mount
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Since the frame was bare again, I did some more finish welding. Specifically the bottom rails which were then ground smooth to make room for the floor pans. More on this later. Here is the under side of the motor mount plate (the top side is fully welded too, don't know why I bothered but it didn't look right without something underneath.
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Welded the driver's firewall (obviously the frame is upside down in the pic)
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Again, here's a view from underneath. This is my front shock mount that is welded in two full planes on the outer frame rail, but thought this "tension strap" could help carry the load to another rail and further beef-up the shock mount, as a LOT of load will go through this guy.
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Finally got around to cutting my steel floor plates. I decided on steel mainly due to cost, but also ease of installation and potentially better structural properties with steel vs alum. I don't mind the approx 15 pound weight penalty, as long as it's very low in the chassis and helps structural rigidity (I know this is up for debate :boxing: )
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Another view of the floors with the Aussie Mod front section.
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A view of the trans mount bolts and how the floor pans wrap around the protruding "sleeves"
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Unfortunately I ran out of gas :BH: so I couldn't weld the floor yet. But it's ready to go otherwise. Going off recommendations I read here, I decided to take the floors all the way out to the edge to make the side panel installation easier down the road.
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PostPosted: August 24, 2011, 9:55 pm 
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Great work, as always. Still jealous about the shocks. :wink:

On a side note, what is it with 7s and Subaru daily drivers... there's at least 3 of us. 8)

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PostPosted: August 25, 2011, 11:36 am 
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Louisville's luckEseven Lauds Locosts
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AK Seven wrote:
Great work, as always. Still jealous about the shocks. :wink:

On a side note, what is it with 7s and Subaru daily drivers... there's at least 3 of us. 8)


Thanks, AK Seven.

Yeah, I dunno what it is with Suby drivers and Locosts. Though I'm willing to bet there are far more Locost builders who've owned Miatas, myself included (I've owned two, actually).

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PostPosted: August 25, 2011, 11:42 am 
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It would be a VERY good idea to put a diagonal on that stand. It's very dicey as-is.

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PostPosted: August 25, 2011, 11:57 am 
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Louisville's luckEseven Lauds Locosts
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KB58 wrote:
It would be a VERY good idea to put a diagonal on that stand. It's very dicey as-is.


I agree, Kurt. As solid as it is currently, it can't hurt to err on the safe side.

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Scratch building an IRS, RX-7 based book chassis @ myBuild Log

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PostPosted: August 25, 2011, 3:47 pm 
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KB58 wrote:
It would be a VERY good idea to put a diagonal on that stand. It's very dicey as-is.


+1

I'd put them in both directions...but I tend to overthink things a bit.

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PostPosted: September 18, 2011, 9:01 pm 
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Floors fully welded around the perimeter, with a row of plug welds in 1/4" holes across the main lateral tube.
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Close-up of plug welds
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Corner weld
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Floors and "aussie mod" panel up front
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If you're wondering, the steel floor (.065" thick) weighed 32 lbs all together.
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Seam welding
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Welding around transmission mounting boss
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Also worked on the driver's seat mount. It was a bit of a struggle trying to come up with the best solution for mounting the seat with the sliding seat rails I had, since there was no feasible way to mount it to the frame rails, and I wanted the seat absolutely as low as possible, I came up with this solution which is quite sturdy. I'm sure I'll get flamed for it :BH:
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Floor reinforcement welds
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Here's a close-up of the "aussie mod" panel, with cutouts big enough for a bolt/washer and the appropriate socket to turn said bolt from below to mount the steering rack.
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Also cut-out 8 identical pads to copy Jeff's R1-powered bolt-on cage for the two door bar mounts on each side. These turned out well, it's harder than you'd think to make 8 of these as uniform as possible
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Then welded nuts to the back side of half of them to be welded in the chassis
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Then welded some vertical braces to the frame and welded the pads in place. This should give a bit more surface area in case these guys ever see any action :shock:
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Ugly welding, but it'll be ground down flush and covered with an ally panel, they're also welded on the inside.
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Inner welding, a bit better looking
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Also finally got around to mounting the passenger side seat. It looks crooked because the passenger side trans tunnel tube is angled to make room for the RX7 offset diff, but the seat is actually straight.
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Seat mounts welded to the frame rail sides.
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These guys are pretty beefy. Will be welded below to the floor as well.
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Other side seat mounts.
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PostPosted: March 3, 2012, 2:17 pm 
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Hey hows it goin. Just finished reading through your build, its awsome. Im starting the chassis now, do you have any advise?

Matt.


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PostPosted: October 28, 2012, 7:13 pm 
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Nice build here i love it,

Question, i see you got the car in the floor on its 4 tires, but it is me or the ride height is where it supposed to be, even without the springs installed on the shocks, or it will sit higher than that?


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