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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 7, 2022, 11:48 am 
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Just working to get an acceptable amount of travel. I'm trying to get the diff as far back as possible to give clearance for the yoke. However, doing that is inherently moving the axle way back. Haven't measured it, but probably about 3"-4" relative to the center of the top plate. Staying further forward will decrease the amount of bump I can achieve as the yoke would start to interfere.

I fabricated and tacked on the chassis end mounting brackets.
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PostPosted: January 7, 2022, 12:32 pm 
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If I can offer a suggestion:
what I did was to cut out the centre section of tube B1, and replace it with a removeable strap underneath, which I made out of 1" x 3/8" material about 10" long. I did the same thing at the front, I removed the centre section of tube "C", and made a removeable strap for there as well. If you don't do this, it will be almost impossible to remove the engine and transmission as a unit. I made my rear transmission mount removeable for the same reason.


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PostPosted: January 7, 2022, 1:25 pm 
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Maybe this will help. Note the A-frame right lower arm that also locates the axle laterally.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 7, 2022, 4:33 pm 
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blownmiata91 wrote:
If I can offer a suggestion:
what I did was to cut out the centre section of tube B1, and replace it with a removeable strap underneath, which I made out of 1" x 3/8" material about 10" long. I did the same thing at the front, I removed the centre section of tube "C", and made a removeable strap for there as well. If you don't do this, it will be almost impossible to remove the engine and transmission as a unit. I made my rear transmission mount removeable for the same reason.


Thanks Doug. Very hesitant to cut through any cross members, and was always wondering if had been done. Going to do some measuring this weekend and see which way to proceed. Still have to work out and read up on pinion angles etc.... Maybe I have to lower my engine and cut B1. Right now my pan is 1/2" above the bottom. I hated the idea of an exposed pan, plus it the engine still came in below the scuttle height. I appreciate the advice.


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PostPosted: January 7, 2022, 4:47 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Maybe this will help. Note the A-frame right lower arm that also locates the axle laterally.


That is a brilliant solution.


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PostPosted: January 7, 2022, 8:40 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Maybe this will help. Note the A-frame right lower arm that also locates the axle laterally.
That is clever and simple. Is that indeed how it was done on a 1960 Lotus Seven?

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PostPosted: January 8, 2022, 10:12 am 
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
If you look at fig. 4.1 in the book you will note that B1 has a flat plate section in the rear tunnel area. You could also move the rear crossmember tube forward in the tunnel for the needed clearance. I actually added two more additional cross tubes to both the top and bottom of the tunnel plus a lowered tube at the front of the dog house. To enhance the torsional modulus. The book open tunnel w/o crossmembers is a really poor structural design. A few added tubes, is a small wt increase for a BIG structural improvement.
Be carefull moving the axle rearward. You can easily end up when fitting the fender, having the fender extend pass the the radius of the rear body.
Davew


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PostPosted: January 8, 2022, 10:15 am 
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Hi Jack!

The side mount, A-frame was from '57 through '60. The chassis-wide, lower A frame with a bush on the bottom of the diff was introduced in '60. While it was better in that the axle was not moved laterally as much with axle vertical travel, the diff end was a bush and a known failure point (should have been a spherical) and the geo was not good; basically an upside down three link.

Also notable is the curved upper links. Imho, they wanted the links as long as practical which is why they extend past the axle and the curve was for bump clearance to the axle.

I think Modernbeat's three link car is probably the best way to put a solid axle in a seven. I think he was the second owner?

The config is similar to a 90s geo tracker/suzuki sidekick and ford aerostar van.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 8, 2022, 12:56 pm 
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Just a thought, not based on any knowledge or experience. The side mount, 57-60 would require a robust tunnel structure to secure the center pivot. While most Locosts are strong in this area, it is something to consider. That center pivot would also need to be located along the centerline between the lower links.

The later version mounts to the same pivot point as the forward end of lower links. It is understood that this point would already be strong for obvious reasons. The attachment at the diff would likewise need to be located along the centerline of the rear lower links.

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PostPosted: January 8, 2022, 1:13 pm 
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I agree that would be better but that is not what they did, so it does put a side load on the axle with travel.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 8, 2022, 2:08 pm 
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fyi you can get seals for your rod ends, if you don't have them already, from Summit Racing or Speedway Motors
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Search?query=ws5001.

You might be able to get them directly from Seals It.


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PostPosted: January 9, 2022, 1:43 am 
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Thanks for the info. I probably over built my 4 link. The rod ends are 3/4". First time I've ever seen seals for the rod ends. Looks like most people use smaller, lighter ones. Thanks for info. Maybe Mopac might even have them locally. I didn't get a chance to work on her today, instead my F350 blew the starter.

The pictures gave me a different idea though. Maybe I don't need to flip my calipers after all. I might be able to mount the axle end 4 link bracket further inboard and attach the links to the outside of the bracket, rather than in the middle of the bracket. I would just need longer 3/4" bolts that protrude far enough to mount the rod end. That would leave the bracket itself in almost perfect location to mount the coilovers.


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PostPosted: January 15, 2022, 7:40 pm 
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Slowly but surely. The throat of the bracket will need to cut back a little. I won't have to relocate the calipers after all. Next will be to find the placement for the coilovers and panhard rod.

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PostPosted: January 15, 2022, 7:41 pm 
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Slowly but surely. The throat of the bracket will need to cut back a little. I won't have to relocate the calipers after all. Next will be to find the placement for the coilovers and panhard rod.

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PostPosted: January 15, 2022, 8:08 pm 
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An easier way to fit sphericals is to have two separate plates, add the spacers on each side of the spherical to ensure they don’t hit the flanges throughout the full range of axle motion (roll, one wheel bump, etc), bolt the flanges and spacers together to set the correct distance between them, then weld the flanges to the axle and box the back below the upper and above the lower spherical. There needs to be some flexibility in the flanges so you can clamp them together and also remove the spherical without damage or scraping off all the paint. The boxing is U shaped where it stops to prevent stress risers from a sudden change in stiffness along the brkt, cracking the flanges from flexing over a small area.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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