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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: August 14, 2007, 8:18 pm 
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Location: PHX, AZ
I settled on hanging the oil pan 2" below the bottom of the chassis. I've heard others needing do the same thing to make it all fit. I just hope 2" isn't too much.
I'm shooting for around a 6" ride height so I will be pushing it a little.


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PostPosted: August 14, 2007, 8:26 pm 
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Something tells me there is a custom header in my future...
It appears there won't be quite enough clearance for both master cylinders and an exhaust tube from the stock header all in that tiny little corner of the engine bay.

Sigh.

I know it would be much easier to throw in the towel on my bottom mount wilwoods and go with either the miata set, or some top-swing pedals, but I WANT BOTTOM MOUNT!!! It's just that simple.

I helped a friend make a scratch-built turbo manifold for a DSM Conquest so I won't be flying blind, but I will sure miss his TIG for the operation. I'll have to either rent, borrow, hire or steal a TIG for that.

- Oh well, that's down the road.... OK down the Interstate, Highway, Freeway, Beltway, Tollway, Lane, Drive, Avenue and Road!


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 Post subject: It's Shocking....
PostPosted: September 27, 2007, 12:00 am 
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Finally got the other set of shocks in... I decided to go with the Proma Star QA1 adjustables. I've heard good and bad things about these shocks, but in the "bang for the buck" department they are hard to beat. Besides, if I don't like them I can always swap them out later.

I bought them from Chassis_Warehouse on ebay. They ended up being around 3 bills delivered which is a bit of a savings from Jegs or Summitt.

All 4 are assembled now. My spring rates are a very scientifically calculated value... known in lay-man's terms as "these are what I had on-hand." They are a little light in front and little heavy in back, but they will both work with what kinds of travel and geometry I'm dealing with.

No pictures of the frame right now, but I have finished the transmission tunnel and I've moved onto the rear suspension/diff mount. Even with pondering over the great photos of other's solutions, it's just not as easy as it looks. My ideal would be something like the Westfield setup, but my geometry is enough different I'm not sure I can make an exact copy of it.
- It's become kind of a seat-of-your-pants effort. I figure as long as I get the pickups in the right places, and I can resist the temptation to permanently weld members around the diff that would preclude its removal, I'll be OK. :lol:


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PostPosted: September 27, 2007, 12:14 am 
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Location: Charleston, WV
Dude your steel looks purdy. I envy your low humidity garage. :P I just mounted my diff today (again-3rd time now) and you are right on about what a PITA it is to make it secure, yet service removable. What diff did you go with?

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PostPosted: September 27, 2007, 6:28 pm 
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When I scrubbed down the steel with soap and water to get all the oil off I was worrried it would rust quickly. It's been about 3 months and it is still rust free. Good ol' high desert air, you can't beat it. I'm curious what will happen when we start thermal cycling below freezing though... I expect "dew" rust spots will start to appear.
- Bring on the POR15.

As far as the diff goes, I am using a 100% miata donor approach. It is a 1.8L 1994 M-edition and I believe it's an LSD.

Has anyone mounted a miata diff with the mounting surface on the bottom? Installed in a miata it hangs from the outboard arms. Everyone seems to take that approach. -Is there something wrong with having the plates one the bottom so you can set the diff in from above and just run the bolts through? - I might have to make some different bushings but it seems like a more straightforward solution. Thoughts?

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PostPosted: September 27, 2007, 6:58 pm 
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Location: Austin, Tx
I would think you might end up having the half shafts wanting to occupy the space you used for the support. Not saying it couldnt be done. Just something that would be a nice gotcha as you install the half shaft later.


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PostPosted: September 27, 2007, 7:06 pm 
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rust_bucket wrote:
When I scrubbed down the steel with soap and water to get all the oil off I was worrried it would rust quickly. It's been about 3 months and it is still rust free. Good ol' high desert air, you can't beat it. I'm curious what will happen when we start thermal cycling below freezing though... I expect "dew" rust spots will start to appear.
- Bring on the POR15.

As far as the diff goes, I am using a 100% miata donor approach. It is a 1.8L 1994 M-edition and I believe it's an LSD.

Has anyone mounted a miata diff with the mounting surface on the bottom? Installed in a miata it hangs from the outboard arms. Everyone seems to take that approach. -Is there something wrong with having the plates one the bottom so you can set the diff in from above and just run the bolts through? - I might have to make some different bushings but it seems like a more straightforward solution. Thoughts?


I don't see where it matters. Those mounts only secure it in one plane and keep it pointing in the right direction. The important mount is the one that keeps the nose of the differential down.

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PostPosted: September 27, 2007, 7:43 pm 
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I just got home and looked at mine. The whole rear subframe is still together. Its definately going to have to be pretty thin. Or inventive in how the support misses existing where the half shaft will want to be.


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PostPosted: September 27, 2007, 8:00 pm 
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Another often overlooked design feature of that diff carrier is that the mounting surface of the aluminum ears is not horizontal but in fact tilts forward a bit. If you want to maximize space you may want to match that angle rather than making a flat surface to mount it to. You can also grind down the steel post in the center of those flexible mounts to gain more clearance.

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 Post subject: 11 Oct 2007
PostPosted: October 12, 2007, 12:00 pm 
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Finally remembered to take some pictures of the recent progress.

First pic is of the transmission tunnel. I went with 3/4 to increase the passenger compartment width except for the top 2 tubes which are offset to the inside seeing as how the driveline won't occupy that space anyway.


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PostPosted: October 12, 2007, 12:11 pm 
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I think I finally figured out how I want the rear suspension/diff mount to go. I'm taking it one step at a time, and the phrase of the day is "tack weld!" I've already pulled it all apart once. I'm hoping that won't be necessary again....

The lower mounts will look like this except I will extend the sides of the bracket back further as drawn for a larger, better connected shear web.


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PostPosted: October 12, 2007, 12:15 pm 
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The uppers will be fairly simple like this.

I will probably add a gusset or small corner brace in that top corner. - Overbuildit is my middle name. :)


The diff mount is still a work in progress. I'll add pics when I make some more headway. - And no it won't just rest on the crossbars as shown in this picture. :wink:


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PostPosted: October 12, 2007, 12:17 pm 
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OH.. And I got tired of not being able to SEE anything, so I added a few more lights to my wannabe garagemahal. - 8 bucks at home depot, can't beat it!


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PostPosted: October 12, 2007, 10:49 pm 
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Location: Sandy, Utah
This being my first post on this forum, I'm going to take the opportunity to say hello to another Salt Lake County resident. :D

Anyway, I've joined the forum and am currently in the research mode on building a Locost. (I've got two Locost books - Keith Tanner's and the Haynes manual - and a CD-ROM on order from Amazon as this is being typed.) I've finished my current project, which is also a British based "fake" and am looking for something else occupy my limited free time. And I've been a long-time fan of the Lotus Super 7.

Anyway, would it be possible to check out your build one of these days? (I live in Sandy.) And good luck on the build.

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PostPosted: October 16, 2007, 4:10 pm 
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Sure, you'd be welcome anytime. - I'll send you a PM and we can work out the details.


<N>

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