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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: November 23, 2007, 8:45 pm 
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Well, I'll dive in with regards to harness mounting.
There are two ways that are normally used for shoulder straps mounting - wrap-on or bolt-on/snap-in.

Wrapped on, the shoulder harness are wrapped around a harness bar of some sort behind the seats, which is normally a part of the roll-bar / roll cage structure.

Bolt-on or snap-in uses tabs or clip to attach the shoulder straps to the frame.

If memory serves, both mounting methods require the shoulder strap to be mounted within a certain angle range of between 0º to 45º behind the seat (0º being parallel to the ground), in which they most effective at.

I personally prefer the harness bar method because the length of the shoulder strap between the mounting point and the buckle is normally kept to the minimum, a good thing when considering that the more length of strap is available - the more it will stretch in a crash (the better the chance you have to take a close look at your dashboard).

Moti


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File comment: Harness bar in my old miata, they are wrapped around it very close to the back of the seat and at a very low angle.
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PostPosted: December 9, 2007, 12:12 am 
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I'm still waiting on parts so I decided to mock up some body parts to see how they look. There are very few sevens I've seen that look right to me from the rear view. Most look like a pickup truck to me. So I'm toying with some alternate designs.I started out with an Lemans prototype design. Might be hard to title as a seven replica . I like the look of the Donkervoort coupe so I'm trying for a simplified version of that. I might add some sidepods and an aero nose after its titled and on the road. I started out with a hood scoop but thought it looked better if I raised up the hood and shortened the windsheild. Aluminum is a lot lighter than laminated safety glass and it doesnt change the view from the drivers seat


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aero nose.PNG
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roof.PNG
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Last edited by pmatolcsy on December 9, 2007, 1:05 am, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: December 9, 2007, 12:52 am 
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I love how you brought out the trunk to the width of the fenders. Got a shot from the rear? Also dig the headlight.


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PostPosted: December 9, 2007, 1:05 am 
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Very similar to what I'm looking to do. I'm working on getting Jack to make Donkervoort RS06 rear fenders, with the built-in taillights... but for the headlights, again, I'm aiming at Donkervoort headlights, as in the D8 GT, with pods. I'd like to get a BMW bi-xenon setup in the pods, complete with halos.

If you're going that far, why not just enclose 'em (meaning headlights)? You already have the shape horizontal-wise.

http://www.donkervoort.nl/cars/d8gt.htm

And with the wrap-around rear, you could probably use something more like Alpha Romeo tail lights.

Nate
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PostPosted: December 9, 2007, 1:18 am 
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Looks great phil. The only think that jumps out at me looking at the physical model is you may want to wrap those front fenders on around those tires toward the front to decrease high speed lift. (like you did in your graphic sketch) Something tells me your car will be capable of speeds where this could be a problem. :shock:

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PostPosted: December 9, 2007, 1:43 am 
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Man you guys are quick. Barely had time to edit out my mistakes. I'm going to go with traditional headlights for now to try to make it an "authentic" seven to get it titled, but I do plan on upgrading the headlights later to the bi-xenon wrap around style. I havent finished the rear yet as I ran out of time and supplies(no more screws, glue hardboard or mdf) but I do plan on the fenders being lower than the center section which already has a gradually sloped section to give a diffuser type effect.The fenders are out about 2" past the frame and the back panel is yet to be decided could be flush with fenders at 48" wide straight across or I could cut the fenders off level with the frame and give the back panel curved sides. Or maybe curve the back panel like the Donkervoort D8 GT and butt it into the sides of the fenders and let them hang out long? Hard to get a good shot of the rear in my little shop but I'll give you what I have so far.


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PostPosted: December 9, 2007, 2:16 am 
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Thanks for the encouragement guys. How far around would you bring those front fenders ? There about 45 degrees to horizontal or 1:30 right now. Do they need to be at 30 degrees (2:00) or horizontal (3:00) to decrease lift ? Or can you just roll the front edge in to 1/2" from the tire? How much does a tire grow at speed ? To me they look a little goofy at less than 45 degrees


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PostPosted: December 9, 2007, 2:30 am 
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If you like the look, have you considered a removable front spoiler? One that would have sort of wings to cover up that spot too. At first i didn't understand why he didn't make them more wing like, but after reading more of the SCCA rules, i see why (i think i see anyway) its designed more like a spoiler or air dam, and stays in the lines of the car, no wider or longer than the car. That way you can keep the look you were after for cruising, and keep the car on the track when racing. Making the wings on the spoiler go up a bit more to meet your fenders. Though, I don't think the wings can be longer than 10 inch's in EM. Damn rules are confusing.


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File comment: Esslinger Lotus 7
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PostPosted: December 9, 2007, 8:51 am 
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That is looking amazing phil!

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PostPosted: December 9, 2007, 12:20 pm 
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I really like the lines in the mock up. Keep up the great work.

Peter


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PostPosted: December 9, 2007, 2:52 pm 
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WOW! I've been wondering about the body, looks real good! Did you say what the body will be made of?

Keep it up, the shape of the car flows well. Did I say I like it? :D

Rod

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PostPosted: December 9, 2007, 5:51 pm 
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What about sloping the rear back into were the differential is kindof like the ford GT?


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PostPosted: December 14, 2007, 12:55 am 
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Phil,
No disrespect meant to anyone on this forum! BUT, I would like to say that those are the best looking lines I have ever seen on a homebuilt seven. It looks like you have nailed the stance and aggressiveness of an "American seven".

I would love to see it at a 3/4 front view....

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PostPosted: December 19, 2007, 2:06 pm 
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Could you give me the measurements of your tunnel?

Looks like I'd just need overall width and height at the firewall and at the opposite end of the tranny, and the length along the floor. That's with the oil pan 3/4" below the rails, right?

I'd like to avoid cutting the brace that runs along the floor at the firewall between the two sides of the car. So if I raise the engine and tranny up 1 3/4", what do you think would be my chances of getting the tranny and engine in place?


Your build is very inspiring and intimidating. There's so much I don't know. I love what you did with the e-brake.

My plans are here: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=27197


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PostPosted: December 26, 2007, 12:37 am 
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Just a thought I am not sold on the tail lights but his rear fender treatment looks similar to yours...
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