LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently May 19, 2019, 8:28 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 232 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 ... 16  Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 26, 2007, 12:44 am 
Offline
Databases fear me
User avatar

Joined: June 21, 2006, 7:02 pm
Posts: 890
Location: Lethbridge Alberta
mr.peabody.d wrote:
Image


looks very mid eighties supercar

_________________
Pictures of just a few of my projects


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 26, 2007, 3:13 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 15, 2007, 10:48 pm
Posts: 225
Location: Claremont,Ontario,Canada
Fiberglass Update : Sticky
Sorry just couldn't resist
I'm very new to this bodywork and fiberglass stuff
I finished all the plugs in Red Tremclad enamel ,waxed and PVA'd them. Should have taken some pictures before I hacked them all up with fiberglass . Have had no trouble at all with seperating the fiberglass from them ,although I do scratch the paint on the plugs.
I started with a front fender. Decided on Epoxy as its winter here and it seemed better (less fumes and can alter temp to change working time).I work with the window open, then crank up the heat when I leave and I can demold the parts about 4 hours later. 4 layers of 6 oz cloth was hopelessly flimsy. Added another 4 layers and still wasn't happy with rigidity of front fender, considering how close its edges will be to my tires . With a 2" flange all around I couldn't change its radius but In torsion I could twist it almost 45 degrees , even with the cloth layed alternating at 45deg and 90 deg. By that time had 4 layers on the nose. Decided to try some localized foam reinforcements covered in another 2 layers of glass. Rigidity is much improved and parts are still very light.
When I ran out of 6oz cloth, after talking with RAYPLEX (http://www.fibreglass.com) , I switched to 9oz cloth and bought a small sheet of their 1/4" thick polypropylene honeycomb. Used my unuseably flimsy fender as a mold ,rewaxed and PVA'd it . Made a new fender with 2 layers of 9oz on the outside, some honeycomb, then another 2 layers on the inside. I used a curved "shoe" to hold the honeycomb against the outer layers while they set up ,then added the inner Layers. Fender is very light, rigid and I'm happy with it.
I'll see how flimsy the rear fender is with 4 layers of 9oz cloth and then decide if I'll remold with honeycomb or just reinforce with some foam. It has more shape than the front so it may be rigid enough already.
I'll get some pictures up when I'm a little less stickY!!!!!
Can someone PM me on how to add a link properly(like the the one to rayplex above).
Happy Holidays to ALL
Phil[/url]


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Pictures
PostPosted: December 26, 2007, 4:25 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 15, 2007, 10:48 pm
Posts: 225
Location: Claremont,Ontario,Canada
Photos as promised


Attachments:
File comment: Buck,mold,shoe and finished part
christmas  2007 062.jpg
christmas 2007 062.jpg [ 143.63 KiB | Viewed 6936 times ]
File comment: Honey comb
christmas  2007 065.jpg
christmas 2007 065.jpg [ 72.36 KiB | Viewed 6929 times ]
christmas  2007 066.jpg
christmas 2007 066.jpg [ 165.55 KiB | Viewed 6933 times ]
christmas  2007 067.jpg
christmas 2007 067.jpg [ 200.72 KiB | Viewed 6929 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 26, 2007, 4:28 pm 
Offline

Joined: August 15, 2005, 10:13 pm
Posts: 7048
Location: Charleston, WV
Looks great Phil. You sure do work fast!

_________________
He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 4, 2008, 12:23 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 16, 2005, 1:55 pm
Posts: 196
I agree. An impressive combination of custom design, good quality, and rapid progress.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 4, 2008, 1:26 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 13, 2005, 5:58 pm
Posts: 191
Phil

I love that nose! I have a Spirit track nose that now may show up on EBay before long...

Have you thought about doing a two tier tratment similar to what they use on pavement midgets?

http://www.swindellmotorsports.citymake ... 416415.htm


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 4, 2008, 4:04 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 11, 2006, 4:49 pm
Posts: 604
Wow every thing looks really good, your sure not wasting any time.

keep it up.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 4, 2008, 5:18 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 29, 2006, 9:10 pm
Posts: 2953
Location: Oregon, usually
Just to be sure I'm following along correctly, you're using the patterns as male molds, right? Tell us a bit more about how you made the patterns, if you would--you're doing a fabulous job and it reminds me that I still have a lot to learn.

Also, got any shots of your rear fenders from the back?

_________________
Locost builder and adventurer, and owner/operator of http://www.kineticvehicles.com


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 4, 2008, 7:17 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 15, 2007, 10:48 pm
Posts: 225
Location: Claremont,Ontario,Canada
Wow
Thanks for all the encouragement!!!! I'm glad its only my wife that thinks I'm off my rocker.
Jack, I found google sketchup (free 3D cad) very useful in visualizing various designs. I went through quite a few before arriving on something I wanted to build. The bucks are made from 5/8 " MDF and 1/8" hardboard. For the front fenders ,I just made up 2 half circles at the radius I wanted then spaced them apart with 3 spacers at the width I wanted . The 3 spacers were all 90 degrees apart and tall enough to hold the sides firmly in the same plane. I then wrapped them in 1/8" hardboard using 1" wood screws to clamp until the glue set. BIG WARNING HERE. Where It says Polyurethane glue may stain your hands and wear gloves , Listen. I had to wait about a week for all the Black stained dead skin to grow out of my hands. No solvent known to man will remove that stuff. After letting the glue dry a couple days, I removed all the screws and radiused the edges with a 3/4" round over on the router. I filled the holes left from the screws with quickset sandable 45 drywall
compound ,sanded and the primered , sanded and painted them.
For the rear fenders the shape on the Inside and outside are different so I marked the shapes I wanted but left them 1/2" big when I cut them . Using a straight edge set across Inside and outside I eyeballed the angle necessary to bring both edges Into the same plane . I used my 5" grinder with a 36 grit disk to cut back to my marked line at the angle necessary to bring Inside and outside into the same plane.Very dusty work. When done I wrapped them in hardboard same as the fronts. I had to eyeball the roundover since the edges were at less than 90 degrees and couldn't be routed. I created them with a 40 grit flap disc on the grinder.
The nose was made in similar fashion using 5/8" hardboard for the front, bottom and sides. but the large round over on the top of the side pieces took about 4 layers of offcuts to get the required radius.I shaped that with the 36 grit grinder disk as well but the pieces were all cut to approximately the correct angles first. The gently curved top was made in 1/8" hardboard and formed over pieces of the required shape similar to the fenders . The parts are mostly curved in 1 plane only but using the method I did produced some shape In the other axis that was unexpected but welcome. In a few spots on the nose I added a bit more shape using the drywall compound where the shape seemed too Flat.
I've never done any of this before and followed the construction of your aero build for inspiration.
Phil


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: Pictures
PostPosted: January 4, 2008, 8:46 pm 
Congratulations pmatolcsy,
I welcome your sense of innovation. The nosecone looks great... the deflectors are something I would like to do too one day. I am anxious to see the whole car (I am sure you are too).

Philippe.
Mostly steel Locost


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 7, 2008, 12:47 am 
Offline

Joined: August 13, 2006, 5:14 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Minnesota
So how does your chassis line up with the book one? I know you said its got the longer wheelbase but what else? Did you use the book as a starting point or start from scratch?


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 7, 2008, 5:15 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 15, 2007, 10:48 pm
Posts: 225
Location: Claremont,Ontario,Canada
In regards to Carsonp's questions.
The chassis is described in my first post . It is basically a one off. I started with my motor and wheel choice and went from there. I did consult the book alot but decided I wanted an Integrated roll cage to also act as a windsheild support. That pretty well dictated how long the parallel portion of the chassis would be. I mocked up one half of the chassis in wood first to make sure I was happy with the dimensions. 48" to the outside of the cage was the smallest I could fit in. Its still pretty tight. My build is quite a bit bigger than a book 7. I could have easily set the rear axle centerline forward almost a foot, but I liked the look with the tail stretched out a bit.I also drew it in CAD and that helped alot.And I followed these forums and got alot of great Ideas from the ingenious minds out there!
Heres an early diagram of the proposed dimensions. These were altered slightly to fit as necessary ie roll bar height confirmed over helmeted head (raised 1.5"),front axle centerline moved back 2" to allow more room for rack,rear overhang to fit desired fuel cell etc. I played alot with the various suspension design programs to arrive at a geometry I was happy with.
Hope this helps


Attachments:
AutoSave_3 inch roof taper.png
AutoSave_3 inch roof taper.png [ 93.94 KiB | Viewed 6473 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 26, 2008, 8:09 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 15, 2007, 10:48 pm
Posts: 225
Location: Claremont,Ontario,Canada
Progress
We had a nice break over new years at the cottage. Lots of snow. When we got back ,my wife had a few small projects for me (that consumed about 40 hours). Tried bending some sheetmetal using the Book method and wasn't happy with the results so I build a small hand brake. Had some freinds over I dont see very often , so I "DOLLED UP" the car by reattaching the bucks to it. Finally got my steering rack! so thats been mounted up. Also got my fuel pump and hardware so started mounting and mocking up that. Added a fuel level sender to my fuel cell.Both the fuel level sender and defroster came from Princess auto and were very reasonable


Attachments:
File comment: Toying with the idea of mounting the battery here
P1250150.JPG
P1250150.JPG [ 219.42 KiB | Viewed 6112 times ]
File comment: Homemade 49" hand brake.
P1250153.JPG
P1250153.JPG [ 140.84 KiB | Viewed 6106 times ]
File comment: Offset rack mounts were a surprise. Just had enough room for them. Should have noticed in Rods build.
P1260156.JPG
P1260156.JPG [ 227.32 KiB | Viewed 6106 times ]
File comment: Possible heater defroster. It has an integral DC fan which I may run forwards for defrost and backwards for heat
P1260157.JPG
P1260157.JPG [ 193.9 KiB | Viewed 6107 times ]
File comment: All dolled up
P1250149.JPG
P1250149.JPG [ 181.93 KiB | Viewed 6113 times ]
File comment: Fuel and brake line enclosure. Sheet metal welded to outer frame rail and an extra 1/2" tube which gives enough room to run lines "over" the crossmembers, is recessed 3" from bottom of car, allows for lines to be removed and also secur
P1250155.JPG
P1250155.JPG [ 155.59 KiB | Viewed 6101 times ]


Last edited by pmatolcsy on January 26, 2008, 8:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 26, 2008, 8:14 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 15, 2007, 10:48 pm
Posts: 225
Location: Claremont,Ontario,Canada
couple more pics


Attachments:
File comment: Future locoster/speedfreak
P1010091.JPG
P1010091.JPG [ 192.46 KiB | Viewed 6103 times ]
File comment: Fuel pump and prefilter mounted above line of planned flush underbody panel / diffuser
P1250151.JPG
P1250151.JPG [ 199.69 KiB | Viewed 6101 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 26, 2008, 10:09 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 7, 2007, 3:24 pm
Posts: 682
Location: Visalia, Ca
Phil,

Is that a Unisteer manual rack, looks exactly like the one I just put in my car yesterday!


Rod

_________________
Driving a +442E with 450 Hp Ford 347 v8, T5, 8 stack EFI w/EDIS8 & MegaSquirt ITB Mode.
12,000+ enthusiastic miles as of 1/1/11
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqvYJlYc4GU
http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p3/beergodrod/
Now building a 1953 Chevy 1 ton panel with Frito Lay truck parts and a Cummins 4BTA
and a 1963 Nova SS


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 232 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 ... 16  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY