LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently November 21, 2017, 9:55 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 380 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 ... 26  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Misc pics
PostPosted: December 12, 2007, 4:45 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 10, 2007, 12:05 am
Posts: 618
Location: Champion, Ohio
Some miscellanious pictures I wasn't able to develop until recently.


Attachments:
File comment: Test driver (she wanted a right-hand car)
Test Driver.jpg
Test Driver.jpg [ 59.91 KiB | Viewed 6683 times ]
File comment: A picture Lisa took.
Grind3.jpg
Grind3.jpg [ 101.71 KiB | Viewed 6683 times ]
File comment: An friend came over and wanted to learn how to weld.
Welder.jpg
Welder.jpg [ 71.39 KiB | Viewed 6675 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 12, 2007, 10:30 pm 
Offline
Weight watcher
User avatar

Joined: March 7, 2006, 6:15 pm
Posts: 2392
Location: Northridge, CA
Check you out, dude, with all the hot chicks in your garage! :wink:
The only hot chicks found in my garage are coming from el pollo loco in case I'm taking it to go... :lol:

Moti

_________________
Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

Visit the Blackbird Fabworx Facebook Page!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 13, 2007, 1:07 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 10, 2007, 12:05 am
Posts: 618
Location: Champion, Ohio
Heh. Those are both of Lisa. There should be more to come, if all goes well. She's into cars; it'd be cool to get her started on one too, but I think more realistically, we'll work on a fix-er-up for her.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: ...
PostPosted: December 17, 2007, 1:33 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 10, 2007, 12:05 am
Posts: 618
Location: Champion, Ohio
Well, not too much has been happening... working on the brakes a little; busy with a few other things in life too.

At least I am finished with the hardlines for the moment. I still have to install a T for a pressure switch, but that will probably wait until the electrical stage. Now I have to work on the steering rack and column. Ugh.

Snow! (again)... We got about 8" of snow last night. The picture doesn't look deep--that's because my Mini's airdam served as a snowplow in that area before I stepped in it. The grill's packed solid with snow and ice; and whenever making speed in the back roads, all you can see is snow flying over the top of the car... looks cool, but you'd better know what's ahead of you while doing so!


Attachments:
File comment: Oh... it snowed last night, btw.
IMG_2234.JPG
IMG_2234.JPG [ 58.77 KiB | Viewed 6462 times ]
IMG_2237.JPG
IMG_2237.JPG [ 116.04 KiB | Viewed 6459 times ]
IMG_2236.JPG
IMG_2236.JPG [ 140.86 KiB | Viewed 6455 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 17, 2007, 3:31 pm 
Offline
Man of Constant Hazard
User avatar

Joined: February 20, 2006, 11:18 am
Posts: 3155
Location: Lexington, KY
SteyrTMP wrote:
At least I am finished with the hardlines for the moment. I still have to install a T for a pressure switch, but that will probably wait until the electrical stage. Now I have to work on the steering rack and column. Ugh...


I'm probably preaching to the choir here, but be sure to support those hard lines. Vibration is a killer.

And on the cautious side, I would personally safety wire those spring clips (not sure the correct term) on the clevis pins to secure them closed. I don't think they'd ever come off on their own, but it doesn't take much for something else to pull/push them free.

Another option would be a safety ring (looks like a tiny keyring) instead of the spring clip, or plain old safety wire behind a close-tolerance washer.

-dave

_________________
...nowadays people are so intellectually lazy and lethargic that they can't build ANYTHING with their hands. They'll spend hours watching whiny people marooned on an island, but won't spend a second adding anything to the world. -weconway
Visit my [Locost 7 build log]


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 18, 2007, 12:59 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 10, 2007, 12:05 am
Posts: 618
Location: Champion, Ohio
The ring idea sounds good, and for mounting, I haven't supported any of the brake lines yet. Just a few zipties along the tranny tunnel--I'm waiting until I'm sure that's where they need to go before mounting them.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 22, 2007, 5:15 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 10, 2007, 12:05 am
Posts: 618
Location: Champion, Ohio
Well, once again, after much delay, I finally said screw it and welded in place my steering wheel assembly. It was slightly easier than I expected, although getting the correct dimensions for the side-mounts on the frame was a little challenging without having any real way of measuring the angles and whatnot, but as most of the parts lately, I just go by eye and then fine-tooth it once it gets in the general direction of where I want it to go.

No, I didn't take any pictures of me sitting in it and going vroom... I'll let Lisa do that perhaps. She's much more photogenic than me.


Attachments:
File comment: Two tubes were added to the scuttle area to support my steering wheel mount.
IMG_2239.JPG
IMG_2239.JPG [ 66.74 KiB | Viewed 6260 times ]
File comment: The entire column assembly tacked into place, everything seems to fit ok.
IMG_2240.JPG
IMG_2240.JPG [ 70.4 KiB | Viewed 6257 times ]
File comment: Yes, it appears to be in line, and yes, my garage is a mess.
IMG_2241.JPG
IMG_2241.JPG [ 88.83 KiB | Viewed 6252 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 22, 2007, 5:24 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 10, 2007, 12:05 am
Posts: 618
Location: Champion, Ohio
One thing you will notice that differs against most other Locosts I've seen up to now is the fact that my column is upside down (I think), and is mounted on top of the bracket, rather than under a bracket. I think this will allow more room in the scuttle, and for me, it was easier to make as well as it appears to be more sturdy with less steel overall. I have yet to install the scuttle, but I checked out the height roughly before installing and am pretty sure I have plenty of room. As there is no steering lock, and the wheel is detachable, it doesn't really matter to me.

I do plan on coming up with some sort of accordian-like rubber... thing... to cover the extra column that will be exposed once the scuttle is in place. I think I may already have what I need off the initial mounting part for the Momo wheel.

One interesting thing to note (not really visible here, take a look at the picture with the wheel on it) is that with this setup, the break-away collapsing part of the column will work. I do not know if the Miata uses the same setup as the MGB, but the bolts mount in aluminum brackets that are capable of sliding out from the column assembly if the column is hit hard from the front.


Attachments:
IMG_2244.JPG
IMG_2244.JPG [ 71.95 KiB | Viewed 6247 times ]
IMG_2245.JPG
IMG_2245.JPG [ 73.81 KiB | Viewed 6247 times ]
IMG_2247.JPG
IMG_2247.JPG [ 66.36 KiB | Viewed 6246 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 22, 2007, 11:46 am 
Offline
Man of Constant Hazard
User avatar

Joined: February 20, 2006, 11:18 am
Posts: 3155
Location: Lexington, KY
Looks good, SteyrTMP. I think mine's going to end up similar, except I've got overhead pedals to deal with.

The column support looks pretty massive, so you probably don't need this...but consider putting some gussets between the side walls and the top. Maybe a triangle in each corner, or perhaps a 1/2" strip across the front edge of the top, welded to sides and top. That would go a long way to stiffen it up. Like I said, probably overkill, but free to do and adds almost zero weight.

Keep up the good work, and post more pictures! :-)


-dave

_________________
...nowadays people are so intellectually lazy and lethargic that they can't build ANYTHING with their hands. They'll spend hours watching whiny people marooned on an island, but won't spend a second adding anything to the world. -weconway
Visit my [Locost 7 build log]


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 22, 2007, 1:58 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 10, 2007, 12:05 am
Posts: 618
Location: Champion, Ohio
I've thought of triangulation, but if I put it anywhere, I'll probably support that small piece that holds the bottom end of the column. I whaled away at the setup a few times, and with 1/8", it's not going anywhere.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 24, 2007, 6:05 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 10, 2007, 12:05 am
Posts: 618
Location: Champion, Ohio
Well, I just came in from finishing the steering assembly. I now have the rack mounted, the extension tacked (have to remember to finish weld that tomorrow), and connected everything together.

Originally, I intended on having the rod coming out of the rack itself almost parallel with the floor of the engine bay, and having a relatively hard angle for the extension, thus allowing the exhaust primaries to exit above the triangulation. However, after looking at Keith's book some more, I decided to follow his example, and have the header exiting below the steering column, and allow the column U-joints more freedom and less angle to deal with.

Measuring where to place the stupid rack brackets sucked. I'm still not satisfied with the finished item; I'm going to have to go and bore out the bolt holes to allow a little bit of adjustment--one side of the rack is a little off from where the other is, about maybe a millimeter or two.

I'm a little concerned about the bump steer factor; but without actually being able to drive, it's hard to tell how bad it's going to be.

I've been tossing around the idea of modifying/buying new tie rod ends, boring out the whole, and mounting them upside down, with the ball joint on the top, making an almost perfect line between the tie rods and the rack itself.... I'll have to see how it handles as is on the street and track once I'm done before going to this point.

The rack itself is a little on the long side, but definately nowhere near as far as the Miata rack, and with the MGB rack, I don't have to cut (yet). From looking at Keith's book, it looks like my rack's about maybe 1.5-2" longer, maybe a tad more, not sure. I'll have to look into this a little more in the future, but as with the bump steer, I'll have to see how it handles.

I know, there are no supports on the steering column... all in good time... I'm waiting for my pillow block bearings; I intend on mounting at least two, possibly three.

I'm getting pretty tired, I'll probably have more to say tomorrow. I'll start on the headers tomorrow, I think.


Attachments:
File comment: The right bracket is slightly off from the left bracket.
IMG_2250.JPG
IMG_2250.JPG [ 88.71 KiB | Viewed 6113 times ]
IMG_2252.JPG
IMG_2252.JPG [ 99.99 KiB | Viewed 6111 times ]
File comment: Height of rack compared to tie rod ends. Originally, with the rack being level (the column end), the rack itself would have been a little lower; I didn't notice the difference until already welding in the brackets.
IMG_2251.JPG
IMG_2251.JPG [ 76.51 KiB | Viewed 6109 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 24, 2007, 6:08 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 10, 2007, 12:05 am
Posts: 618
Location: Champion, Ohio
A few more...


Attachments:
IMG_2254.JPG
IMG_2254.JPG [ 65.21 KiB | Viewed 6108 times ]
IMG_2255.JPG
IMG_2255.JPG [ 80.26 KiB | Viewed 6110 times ]
File comment: At last. I can steer the bloody thing.
IMG_2256.JPG
IMG_2256.JPG [ 76.61 KiB | Viewed 6110 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 11, 2008, 3:35 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 10, 2007, 12:05 am
Posts: 618
Location: Champion, Ohio
Well, I've been dawdling a little... Ok, a lot. The equal length headers is a challenge. I've never dealt with exhaust before, so I'm learning as I go, I guess. I chopped the original 1.5" primaries off, and after look at my 1 5/8" tubing, I realized that the originals were flared. I have no sort of tool to flare mine with, so I may try to do without. The only problem is the flange is considerably larger than the tubing, so I'd probably have to center the tubing, and fill the gap between the tubing and flange with weld. I will then take a carbide burr and taper the weld and tubing.

I'm still trying to figure out how I am going to shape the primaries to keep the equal length. I went to Home Depot today and bought 45 feet of 12 gauge jacketed solid copper wire for 7 cents a foot; it was on sale, what could I say? I stripped it, and am using it to design the routing for the tubing. I'll probably add pictures when I am finished shaping them all.

Any thoughts?


Attachments:
File comment: I worked pretty hard at cleaning those up... looks like it wasn't even necessary. Because of the positioning on the vise, I had to bore one side of the ports a time, then flip it over and do the other side.
IMG_2282.JPG
IMG_2282.JPG [ 58.62 KiB | Viewed 5714 times ]
File comment: Here's a half-bored out port. There's a lot of steel welded in there. It took quite a bit to get them clean and smooth.
IMG_2280.JPG
IMG_2280.JPG [ 46.09 KiB | Viewed 5711 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 11, 2008, 4:00 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 10, 2007, 12:05 am
Posts: 618
Location: Champion, Ohio
More pictures.

I considered buffing/sanding the back of the manifold flange, but because I want to make sure I have a tight exhaust gasket seal, I simply soaked it in carb cleaner instead.


Attachments:
File comment: I did a good bit of sanding, and it really shows that not too much concern was given to the external side of the flange. The back side is machined, but this side looks like it was done by a blacksmith's apprentice.
IMG_2286.JPG
IMG_2286.JPG [ 30.36 KiB | Viewed 5718 times ]
File comment: Showing the gap between the two--stock left, mine, right. Remember, there was another .25-.5 on the stock primaries that was ground out.
IMG_2285.JPG
IMG_2285.JPG [ 22.89 KiB | Viewed 5709 times ]
File comment: The flare on the stock 1.5" primaries compared to my 1 5/8 primaries.
IMG_2283.JPG
IMG_2283.JPG [ 21.5 KiB | Viewed 5709 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 11, 2008, 9:56 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: December 5, 2006, 10:42 pm
Posts: 457
Location: Metro Detoit
I don't see an issue with filling the gap with weld then shaping it. Another thing you might do is to only weld a 1.5 inch stub to the flange. This should give you enough length to go from the oval port back to the round tube. You can then easily attach your mandrel bends to the stubs and make your life much easier. That is how I've seen many headers built and it's how I'm going to do mine as well. I have a header flange for my Datsun engine that I was going to do the same thing with for a custom turbo manifold also.

_________________
Build sold to a new loving home. May start another one when I have more time to devote to it. For now I play with my boat, Datsun 240Z, and GS700 motorcycle.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 380 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 ... 26  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY