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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: October 19, 2009, 1:09 am 
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I figured with all the road construction over there, you were trapped in the house. I need to stop by and see things.
Now that I have power to the garage, we have decided to buy a house in town. I just paid this place off last month. I just can not stand not having a payment. Now have to move the garage and wire it again.

Gene

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PostPosted: October 19, 2009, 12:14 pm 
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You're welcome any time, Gene! Want to help paint? :D

BTW, how long does it take for POR-15 to wear of your fingers? And nose? And scalp?

-dave "wonder why I ran out of paint?" hempy

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PostPosted: October 19, 2009, 1:20 pm 
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You sound like the first time I used Great Stuff. I figured it'd wash off like latex paint.

I managed to completely coat my hands and large sections of my face (hey, it itched) with a nearly indestructible layer of polyurethane foam. Ever try to get expanding foam out of leg hair?

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PostPosted: October 19, 2009, 8:14 pm 
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A friend just posted this photo. It's from one of my test drives last spring, before I got street legal. When you can't drive on the street, you have to get creative where you can drive.


Attachments:
mud day.jpg
mud day.jpg [ 200.79 KiB | Viewed 3312 times ]

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PostPosted: October 20, 2009, 12:42 am 
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Any chance you'll make it up to River Downs/Bend for the autox this Sunday?


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PostPosted: October 20, 2009, 1:29 am 
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krepus wrote:
Any chance you'll make it up to River Downs/Bend for the autox this Sunday?


Like the string said... "No, I'm a frayed knot." Unless maybe I bring sweetie's car.

-dave

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PostPosted: October 20, 2009, 1:47 am 
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Attachment:
File comment: Doesn't that look slick?!? I didn't have any clever ideas for joining it to the front panel, so later I decided to cut it back and hide the joint inside the roll bar.
cabin.side.JPG
cabin.side.JPG [ 51.08 KiB | Viewed 2277 times ]

Attachment:
body.inside.jpg
body.inside.jpg [ 46.51 KiB | Viewed 2277 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: This is the traditional panel. I don't care for it too much. The 442 frame doesn't play too well with it at the front end, anyway. Plus, you need HUGE holes to accommodate the arms, since the body is so far from the pivots.
body.template.curvy.jpg
body.template.curvy.jpg [ 34.25 KiB | Viewed 2279 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Where it all began. I decided to leave the A-arm area open, mostly for ease of fabrication, but also to vent air behind the radiator. I might add a panel later.
body.template.jpg
body.template.jpg [ 45.49 KiB | Viewed 2278 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: This paper is great for this stuff. I thought it would suck compared to poster board, but it's quite nice. Plus, I would have gone through $25 in poster board.
paper.jpg
paper.jpg [ 40.76 KiB | Viewed 2277 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Clecos are my new best friend! I love it when I find a new tool that is just perfect for what it does, and does nothing else. Like Clecos. And Synergy KM software.
body.engine.side.jpg
body.engine.side.jpg [ 46.07 KiB | Viewed 2279 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: This really shows off the sharp angle of the metal.
body.engine.2.jpg
body.engine.2.jpg [ 25.7 KiB | Viewed 2276 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: I'll rivet the skins together from the inside, unless someone is more clever than me. This is not going to be a Concours debutant...
body.joint.jpg
body.joint.jpg [ 44.72 KiB | Viewed 2277 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: What space ship does that remind me of?
body.driver.jpg
body.driver.jpg [ 49.1 KiB | Viewed 2279 times ]

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PostPosted: October 20, 2009, 7:47 pm 
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The angle os a nice twist on the front panel.

I can't wait to see how it will turn out with the nose

Cheers,

Fred


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PostPosted: October 20, 2009, 8:28 pm 
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dhempy wrote:
You're welcome any time, Gene! Want to help paint? :D

BTW, how long does it take for POR-15 to wear of your fingers? And nose? And scalp?

-dave "wonder why I ran out of paint?" hempy



lol, that reminds me of when I used POR 15.
Image


I had to take a week and a half off work (part-time at a restaurant), because the paint wouldn't come off. I think it took two weeks total for it to finally come off for me.


Good luck! LOL :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: October 20, 2009, 8:51 pm 
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Always Moore!
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Looking good Dave.

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PostPosted: October 28, 2009, 11:25 pm 
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Sorry...I've been sitting on these for a week and a half.

Gosh...in the photos, the paint looks like I dipped the car in hot tar or something. I mighta put it on a bit too thick, particularly on the backside. I put two coats on the bottom, realized I didn't have enough to do the top, so I just put the last 1/3 quart on the bottom as the third coat. Probably overkill.

The chalky metal is the result of the etching.

Just a few days ago, I flipped the car over, thinking I was ready to paint the top part. Well, it turns out I'm not...I keep finding little things that really should be tended to before painting. *sigh*

-dave "there is no overkill, really" hempy


Attachments:
File comment: I made sure to paint the bottom sides of everything, as well as everything that would be a pain to reach once the car was verted. (verted being the opposite of inverted, of course)
paint.bottom.sides.jpg
paint.bottom.sides.jpg [ 48.53 KiB | Viewed 2278 times ]
File comment: I swear...it doesn't look that goopy in person.
paint.bottom.rear.jpg
paint.bottom.rear.jpg [ 50.27 KiB | Viewed 2279 times ]
File comment: Kinda shows off the wavy-gravy, eh? I'm not really too worried how this part looks...if anyone ever sees it, I'll have bigger things to worry about.
paint.bottom.jpg
paint.bottom.jpg [ 49.3 KiB | Viewed 2279 times ]

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PostPosted: October 28, 2009, 11:59 pm 
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Looking good there. I managed to warp the driver's side floor on mine while welding it in too. I wish I would have practiced on the passenger side first so I don't get reminded every time I get in.
Kristian

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PostPosted: October 29, 2009, 12:27 am 
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i take it you rolled the POR15 on and not sprayed?

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PostPosted: October 29, 2009, 12:36 am 
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POR-15 doesn't appear to level as much as one would hope, so I suggest that on your roll bars and anything else that will be visible, you may want to knock off any patches of scale with a wire wheel and re-prep. Or, you can sand, fill, and topcoat at your leisure.

This guy has some very credible suggestions for topcoating POR-15, worth a look:

http://www.vanagonauts.com/-POR-15-Frank-s--Recipe178.htm

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PostPosted: October 29, 2009, 1:19 am 
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Brushed on. First I used disposable foam brushes. They worked well, but the paint ripped the foam of the stick after a while. I switched to a regular brush, and didn't like the results as much. When I continue, I'll go back to the foam brush, or maybe a miniature foam roller...all from Home Depot.

I don't really care about the warped floor. It's really not so noticeable (to me!) when not admiring a photo of light reflecting off the shiny paint at a low angle.

Oh, I also drilled a few 1/4" drain holes here and there in the floor pan. I then stuck a drift in and bent the hole, much like a double louver. Does that make sense? Anyway, it should deflect spray from below. Thought I took some pix, but can't find any now.

For the rivets, I tried to put them through the floor, inboard of the chassis tubes. For the front panels, this worked well, as I cut the sheets to suit. For the cockpit sections, the sheet was miraculously cut and bent to exact size...straight from the recycling yard! Go figure. As it ended up, those went into the tubes.

I'm considering drilling a hole in each tube (or at least those suspect to leaking, such as riveted tubes) and injecting some boiled linseed oil and then welding the hole shut. For threaded fittings (e.g. windshield to roll bar bolts), I may try filling the hole with silicon before installing the bolt. We'll see...

-dave

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