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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 28, 2016, 7:10 pm 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
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Location: Delaware
There must be some unwritten rule that you have to start a build log after accumulating a certain number of parts. I'm currently taking a family break from stage rally (run a fwd 2.2L subaru impreza) and have always liked the caterhams and sevens and figured that building one would be a good way to have something constructive to do while not actively racing and would be the most grins per hp and dollars could be used for autox and track days and getting milk from the store or whatever. Here's the plan and/or the parts I've got piled up so far:

Haynes roadster chassis with saturn and other mods
2012 Focus 2.0L TI-VCT - 160hp 145lbs stock the focus crowd seems to be able to get 170hp/155lbs to the wheels with intake, exhaust and a tune which is probably enough. Should also get great fuel mileage
Ford Performance Controls Pack for 2.0L TI-VCT - makes wiring the engine super easy
NC Miata 5spd Trans - will be using the flyinmiata happy meal to get the two together
Subaru 4.11 R160 viscous diff out of an outback
Miata front spindles modified to take Subaru Rear 2wd 5x100 hubs (modded like this: http://miatav8.blogspot.com/2014/02/five-lug-conversion.html
Subaru 05-06 Legacy bolt on rear wheel bearings and custom rear uprights
mk4 vw calipers and brake rotors in the back for a 5x100 solution (will need a small centering for the hub) the calipers are a cable pull ebrake and the same size piston as the stock subaru rear brakes. I already have a dual master cylinder setup on my rally car and am planning on using the same numbers as a starting point here instead of having to do a complete redesign I should be able to just confirm the numbers work.
Front Brakes: TBD. The stock subaru 10.1" rotor and caliper should fit the miata up ok but I would also like to use a wilwood setup in the front. Need to do some cardboard aided drafting to work out what options I have there.
Steering rack will be a modified Toyota yaris: downside is it's aluminum so it will get a steel sleeve once it's shortened, upside is most modern toyota's have manual racks due to the powered steering columns

Everything else will probably be a mash up of what seems common to use here and whatever spare subaru parts (see 5x100) I can pull off my shelf.

goals: fast street plus some track for less than a good kit.

Since I know everyone here likes picts, here's the rally car:
Image
And the facebook page if anyone is interested: https://www.facebook.com/DoublePlusRacing

Here's the pile of parts (well some of them):


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PostPosted: February 29, 2016, 8:25 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Howdy Max-
Welcome to the forum! Sounds like you're off to a good start. Keep us posted on your progress, and yes, pictures are good!
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: February 29, 2016, 6:04 pm 
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I recognize the bread truck roof vent. Welcome.

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PostPosted: March 1, 2016, 4:16 am 
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Joined: April 26, 2008, 6:06 pm
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Location: Under the weather. (Seattle)
I'm looking forward to seeing this one come together. Switching over to the Ti-VCT + FR control pack has crossed my mind on more than one occasion.

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PostPosted: March 1, 2016, 3:11 pm 
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Location: Delaware
Driven5 wrote:
I'm looking forward to seeing this one come together. Switching over to the Ti-VCT + FR control pack has crossed my mind on more than one occasion.


thanks. the only notable I have at the moment is that pigtail on the O2 sensor that ships with the kit is really short (ie it's the one for the ecoboost kit). a quick call to Ford Tech Line and they said it should be ok to mod the engine harness for length (so much for plug and play). the other option which they didn't mention was that there are several places to get the 6 pin O2 extension cables since anyone putting headers on their mustang needs to extend their wires to do so. The controls pack for the TI-VCT is apparently just a focus ecu with all the anti theft stuffs pulled out so it will still run 87 octane and will need a tune once the intake and exhaust changes. I've got an email out to SCT Flash to see what the best approach is there. With any luck the tuning side of things should be sorted well before the car is on (or even has) wheels.


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PostPosted: March 21, 2016, 5:29 pm 
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Location: Delaware
Looking around at some of the other focus duratec builds the focus pan is really a bit too deep not to have a problem trying to the occupy the same space as the road surface at some point. with the dollar being strong the 10 degree raceline sumps looks nice but the up charge for the miata setup is still a hard pill to swallow. Looking around for options I kept noticing that the ecoboost version of the engine was always slanted back, I found a great deal on a new oem 2.L ecoboost sump (normally only $100 iirc). The angle ends up at 9 degrees in the correct direction. The sump has nice straight sides so the plan is to lop off the bottom mill some height off the sides and weld the bottom back on. The ecoboosts have a 5.7L w/ filter oil change and the ti-vct has a 4.6L w/filter change, so there is some breathing room on over all capacity. There are also several places to buy oil baffles for the ecoboost sump.


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PostPosted: April 6, 2016, 7:54 pm 
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Does it use the same pick up tube as a FWD Duratec?

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PostPosted: April 7, 2016, 12:14 pm 
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a.moore wrote:
Does it use the same pick up tube as a FWD Duratec?


it'd TBD right now. the ford online part catalog is only useful to a point in that it lists the na engine oil pump tube as pn 6622 and the ecoboost as 6617 but the picture used for 6617 shows 6622. Both parts are under $10.


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PostPosted: April 9, 2016, 4:55 am 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
Any chance the pan would clear a 2.5 crank? I really could use a pan with the reversed bottom angle.

Bill


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PostPosted: April 9, 2016, 1:14 pm 
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BBlue wrote:
Any chance the pan would clear a 2.5 crank? I really could use a pan with the reversed bottom angle.

Bill


no idea. Ford engines are a new thing for me in general.


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PostPosted: April 27, 2016, 7:53 am 
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Location: Delaware
I actually plan to start building at some point but the silly white and yellow car at the top of the thread took longer than expected to put a transmission into and then wouldn't pass emissions for a while. It's all sorted now so on with the spending! Thought about the raceline oil filter housing but found a nice piece of aluminum for a remote housing from a shop called Moto East for a fair price. http://www.moto-east.com/store/moto-east-oil-filter-plate-mzr.html Already have a spool of aeroquip socketless hose so just need to buy some fittings.


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PostPosted: June 13, 2016, 10:06 am 
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Location: Delaware
Continuing the parts search I noticed that Ford has been nice enough to make a rwd coolant passage for the tivct engine used in the 2.3L Mustang. It's similar to the 2.3 Ranger but should have the clearance required to get around the high pressure pump: pn FR3Z8K556A (#16) and FR3Z8592B (#13). now to shop around for a good deal.


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PostPosted: August 7, 2016, 9:26 pm 
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and more buying stuff. blah. had a chance to piggyback on a buddies overseas order and saved a bunch of $$ on some fancy seats. I just can't bring myself to run kirkeys. good thing my import broker approves.


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PostPosted: August 8, 2016, 2:24 am 
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Just curious if the seats are legit or knockoffs? I bought some "Bride" seats that, given the price, are knockoffs. Any safety concerns, shattering, if they are indeed knockoffs?

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PostPosted: August 8, 2016, 7:26 am 
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Trochu wrote:
Just curious if the seats are legit or knockoffs? I bought some "Bride" seats that, given the price, are knockoffs. Any safety concerns, shattering, if they are indeed knockoffs?


legit. came from demon-tweaks not some ebay store.


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