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PostPosted: September 22, 2008, 11:36 am 
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Don't be tempted Moti. I got four single adjustable QA1s with srings for $700. Springs come in about any rate you want and in 7, 9, & 10" lengths and are only about $30 a piece. If you don't "nail it" with your wheel rates and end up needing a different rate spring for your bike shocks what are you going to do?

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PostPosted: September 24, 2008, 12:32 am 
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Seems like the bike guys re-spring and re-valve their shocks too, mainly to match with the weight of the rider or the type of use.
It's probably more than $30 a pop like the QA1 spring, but even at $110 a piece (which is the price from what I read on the R1 forum) it's still a good bit cheaper than the QA1 and they are double adjustable.

It's probably worth the try regardless, I can always put the back on eBay and get my money back.

This is my current line of thought only because of cost, I would have loved to throw a set of Moton or Ohlins shocks on the car, I'm just $3k short :lol: ...

Moti

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PostPosted: September 24, 2008, 12:18 pm 
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When you have settled or built your front suspension, could you put up the values you choose? I know you beat on this for quite awhile, so it would be nice to see where you got to and then hopefully hear how it works...

Also did you go for adjustable upper pickups?

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PostPosted: September 25, 2008, 2:37 am 
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Yep, I did settle on final values.
They are actually posted in the thread about my setup, but here they are again :wink: .

The suspension isn't built it yet, mainly since I'm ordering all the parts right now and waiting for them to arrive.
I will incorporate height adjustable inner top mounts since I'm going to run my rod ends horizontally (except for the ones on the pushrods).
Have yet to finalize which rod ends I'm going with.
I intended to go with the higher end of Jack's offerings but I don't know if 12 degrees is enough mis-alignement range.

Expect a pretty different structure in the front that the normal book locost, I always disliked how the pick up points look like they are scattered across the frame.
The way I'm going to do it is a lot more like the Caterham CSR where the frame goes to the pick up points and not the other way around...

On a different note, I scored this morning brand new OEM gauge cluster for 04-06 Yamaha R1 to plug into my 05 motor.
Almost $500 retail, $182 on eBay :twisted: .

Moti


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PostPosted: October 3, 2008, 5:55 pm 
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This might not be super exciting but the local UPS driver brought today my gauge cluster.
Brand new Yamaha piece for my year of motor (2005).
There's something about the 13,800 RPM redline just puts a stupid smile on my face, I admit it :D .

Moti


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PostPosted: October 6, 2008, 10:13 am 
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where did u buy that, and how much did that cost?

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PostPosted: October 6, 2008, 11:19 am 
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The part number's right there on the box - Google it.
http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=5VY-83500-20-00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com

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PostPosted: October 6, 2008, 12:45 pm 
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Or just look at my previous message :wink: .
Quote:
On a different note, I scored this morning brand new OEM gauge cluster for 04-06 Yamaha R1 to plug into my 05 motor.
Almost $500 retail, $182 on eBay


Moti

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PostPosted: October 7, 2008, 1:14 am 
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A successful day 8) .
I got the steering rack housing shortened and all welded up.
It came out perfect!
Dead straight and the exact overall length that I needed it to be, 14 1/8".

I did slice the tube into five sections and welded three of them together.
The reason was to get rid of the fittings of the PS hydraulic lines.
Worked out great and looks clean.

I'll get it finished nicely and painted in the next few days.
I'm currently looking for a cheap source of tie rod boots, let me know if you know of a good source other than eBay.

Moti


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PostPosted: October 9, 2008, 8:18 pm 
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Looks nice. After its painted, will you even be able to tell it was cut?

Are going to need to shorten the rack as well or is it close enough?

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PostPosted: October 10, 2008, 1:16 am 
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I don't think I'll polish it down to the point that it's perfect because at some point you start removing material and I'd like to avoid that.
But, it does look pretty good already so maybe a little touch with the belt sander and it will be nice and smooth, enough that the paint will hide any surface imperfection.

Yep, the rack is coming up next, I might just tackle it this weekend.

Moti

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PostPosted: October 12, 2008, 1:16 am 
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Scored a couple deals in the last few days -
An original Caterham nose cone, lightly used for only $142 and a complete usable as-is set of 1.6L miata front brakes for $20.

Things are looking good as the budget for shocks may increase as a result and allow me to purchase a very nice set of DA's.

Moti

(Edited to add a pic of the nose)


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PostPosted: December 22, 2008, 3:08 am 
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Well, I have finally made some progress today.
I finished the steering rack and I just need to get some grease tomorrow so I can put it back together.
Woohoo!
I'll also get some paint while I'm at it, I want to give it a nice finish before any rust shows up, not that it does much here in socal, but still, it's perfectly clean right now.

On another front, I was test fitting one of the rad fans that I had on my miata on the aluminum civic rad I bought for the locost.
The fit is simply perfect, check it out!
This is a really good fan too, 13" curved blade Spal, rated for 1700+ CFM.
I got even luckier when I found out that 3 out of the 8 brackets that hold the rad fans on the miata can be used to hold it to the civic rad and I only need to make one more 8)

One of you guys may get lucky too, as I had two of the same exact fans on my miata and I only need one, so look for the other one in the classifieds shortly.

Moti


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PostPosted: December 22, 2008, 11:54 am 
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Nice.

Any idea how the Miata fan compares to the fan that comes with most of those Ebay Civic rads?

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PostPosted: December 22, 2008, 12:24 pm 
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It isn't a stock miata fan, that's just what I had on my miata.
The fans that you normally see on eBay are 12" straight blade, I bet this one flows a bunch more.

Moti

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