LocostUSA.com

Moti
If you're replacing the mounting eyelets on your shocks I maybe Interested in them I have a pair of 8212's with forked mounts I would like to convert to the standard eyelet and your's may work. Let me know if you want to sell them.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

Thanks for the heads up, I didn't know this.
Luckily, I only tightened it enough for the clamps not to move around...

John, I'll let you know

Moti

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Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

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The clamps are also supposed to help lock the threads on the end caps to keep them from backing out. Its rare, but I've heard of them unscrewing and spraying oil everywhere. Looks like you'll be safe with your exhaust on the driverside of the car, but its something to keep in mind.

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-Ryan
1991 Miata daily driven STS car
1988 GTA LT1/T56 for trackdays and the occasional autocross

Made a little progress with prepping and measuring stuff, the steering column will be mounted very shortly.
Meanwhile here's a pic of the shifter after anodizing .

Moti

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Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

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Anodizing looks great. How much does it cost to have that done?

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Can't tell you about the cost because it was a freebie, my work sent out a big batch of parts to get anodized and my shifter was put in the big box and came back blue

Can't imagine the cost being more than $50 and I learned a while ago that if you're flexible on colors you could get things done for less - I went in the past to this anodizing place and simply asked them which colors are they doing in current jobs and joined mine with the one that sounded best.
In this case it turned out excellent because I was going to get it done in blue for sure.

Moti

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Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

Visit the Blackbird Fabworx Facebook Page!

have you sent out your halfshafts yet?

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Austen
upstate NY
airframe mech
09 109R
04 IS300
91 MR2t
93 toyota PU
91 alltrac (gt-4)

Not yet, I need to get the diff done to be able to measure the axle length accurately, and currently the diff is disassembled and waiting for me to decide which LSD I want to buy.
For a long time I was considering the Detroit TrueTrac #912A316 (Torsen style) to be a decent choice but if I manage to find a clutch type that can be tuned I'd probably go with it instead.
So far no such diff has been found.

Moti

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Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

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what is your track width now? any idea how much your going to have to shorten them up? i think i may just get mine resplined and fitting into the miata part and leave them how long they are as they sit.

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Austen
upstate NY
airframe mech
09 109R
04 IS300
91 MR2t
93 toyota PU
91 alltrac (gt-4)

How about this one? It might not be able to be tuned though, and I have not researched enough to know if any Ford 7.5 diff can fit in any Ford 7.5 carrier : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 500wt_1037

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In the planning stages for my mid-engine BEC
My CAD model sharing Wiki: http://locostcadfiles.wikispaces.com/

WOW...I just browsed your build from the first page...just started reading and couldn't stop - Amazing build, glad to see you're still at it!!!

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Building a MNR Vortx w/ '99 Miata donor: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=9631

Thanks!


I can't recall numbers but I bet the T-bird rear track is at least 4" wider than the miata's.
I'm sure that you can find the info somewhere online...

Foxk56, the diff you linked will work fine, note that the 7.5 rear end do come in two different spline counts (28 and 31).

Moti

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Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

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Oh, that's interesting. I thought all 7.5's have 28 splines and 8.8's had 31

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In the planning stages for my mid-engine BEC
My CAD model sharing Wiki: http://locostcadfiles.wikispaces.com/

A bit more progress - steering wheel is now mounted in the car, I welded the quick release stub in after careful measuring of the distances with the shifter and my hands.
I'm quite happy with the result, it matches my vision very well .

I also got a bracket made and welded for the two brake master cyl reservoirs and it came out fine.

After seeing the steering wheel in its final location, I pulled out the R1 gauge cluster and started playing with the placement where it quickly became obvious that it can't go "inside" the wheel - the wheel is too small (260 mm).
I'm currently debating the ideal location, it will work fine right behind and above the wheel if you hide the 0-5K RPM section of the tach (which doesn't matter anyway) but will force a rather tall wind deflector which isn't necessarily a bad thing.
I can also place it off to the right at various heights, though ultimately I'd like to keep it close to eye level.
We'll see.

Moti

BTW, I'm adding a pic of a 1.8L miata axle in comparison to a T-bird axle.

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Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

Visit the Blackbird Fabworx Facebook Page!

can you rotate the tach to put the redline at the top? Nice to see you sitting in a car nearing the end of your build.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
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