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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 4:11 pm 
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Just took delivery of my square tubes :D .
160' will allow me plenty of room for mistakes if I have any and I can always find a good use for whatever I have left.
Came at $129.90 delivered to my door.

Woohoo, it's cutting and tacking time, baby!

Moti

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 4:15 am 
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Made a bit of progress tonight and started the actual fabrication work.
I made my frame about 1.5" wider than the book in order to make sure that my seat fits.

Moti


Attachments:
File comment: Yes, I'm using both of the books for reference
IMG_1575w.jpg
IMG_1575w.jpg [ 115.19 KiB | Viewed 8854 times ]
File comment: My Cobra Evolution Kevlar seat, I love it.
IMG_1580w.jpg
IMG_1580w.jpg [ 98.63 KiB | Viewed 8855 times ]

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 8:35 am 
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That is still foing to be a VERY narrow tunnel or offset a lot to the passenger side. I assume you aren't putting in a passenger seat at all then?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 11:40 am 
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Don't they sell a narrower version of that seat? You look like a pretty slim guy and that thing is WIDE.

FWIW the Miata diff input is offset about 3/4" to the pass side.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:12 pm 
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jmanz6 wrote:
That is still foing to be a VERY narrow tunnel or offset a lot to the passenger side. I assume you aren't putting in a passenger seat at all then?

That's what I was thinking...

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:23 pm 
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Actually, you are all right about it - it's going to be a narrow tunnel and offset to the passenger side.

However, I did verify 15" of space for a passenger seat which might not be a lazy boy recliner, but at least there will be something for passenger to seat their butt in.

Chet - the seat does seem a little wider in the pic, some of the padding on the sides can be squeezed a good 3/4" down, but this is in fact the narrower version, not the GT or GT2 (read bigger and biggest).
I'm about 5'8" and 155 lbs. and it's pretty snug around me.

I also don't have to use the original brackets as they make the base a good bit wider, I could easily fabricate my own and gain some extra space back.

Moti

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Last edited by Blackbird on Thu Nov 22, 2007 4:17 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:45 pm 
I took the cover of my momo seat and shaved down the 2 sides to shove it into the stock width frame. It worked and I'm really happy with it.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 10:19 pm 
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Yep, it crossed my mind and I keep it there as a last solution.
I don't want to shave the sides all the way down because it will leave a very sharp vertical kevlar surface under the fabric, not a good thing IMO.

Moti

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 2:26 am 
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Where'd you get your tubing from? Im in ventura county and I like that price.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 4:01 am 
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Industrial metal supply in sun valley - 818-394-3188.
Note the different source I'm using for DOM tubing (cage and suspension arms) - www.tottentubes.com .

Moti

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 5:29 am 
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Alright, time for an update!

As you can see from the pics, I have made a bit of progress.

I'm currently delaying some of the tubes that run into the roll cage, the bender is supposed to be here in about a week and a half and I'll do them after I get the front and rear hoops of the cage in.

Moti


Attachments:
File comment: The joy of having a steel table, you can just use magnets to clamp things in position as you tack them
IMG_1585w.jpg
IMG_1585w.jpg [ 133.59 KiB | Viewed 8666 times ]
File comment: I know it's silly, but there's something cool about seeing the tube structure taking a 3 dimensional shape
IMG_1589w.jpg
IMG_1589w.jpg [ 145.76 KiB | Viewed 8668 times ]
File comment: More to come soon!
(and yes, you can call the two seats on the table "wishful thinking")

IMG_1590w.jpg
IMG_1590w.jpg [ 135.42 KiB | Viewed 8658 times ]

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My R1 powered Locost build log

www.BlackbirdFabworx.com - quality performance fabrication work, NASA / SCCA road racing, Redline time attack, Miata specialist, Honda, Subaru, Mitsubishi, Caterham, Locost and YOUR car!
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 12:48 pm 
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I was just thinking and I believe Emile (erturbo) did something unique to his frame to accomodate wider seats. You may want to have a look at his frame for ideas.

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2078

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 11:47 pm 
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Emile did find a clever way to widen the book-ish frame that he's building after it was already tacked (IIRC).
His frame is a +2 wide and according to his blog will accomodate two 16" wide seats.

My seat is 19" wide and I'm using every trick that I can think of to make the driver side happen, including (but not limited to, as legal documents will say :P ) making the frame 40 mm wider at the seat area, offseting the tunnel, possibly shaving the seat down a little bit and more...

The only ways these two seats will ever fit into a frame together will be in a middy or a +8 width car :lol:

Progress today has been fairly minimal, I really need to get the tube bender in order to make the big jump forward.

Moti


Attachments:
IMG_1593w.jpg
IMG_1593w.jpg [ 133.62 KiB | Viewed 8608 times ]

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My R1 powered Locost build log

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 4:46 am 
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Well, the last few days were mainly spent on research and recovering from a nasty flu.
I did make some progress in the area of the front suspension design though, and also got a bunch of new parts.

I tried test fitting the new wheel over a stock miata front rotor (94-97) with my wilwood caliper and found that I may be able to fit a paper in the gap between them, but don't even think about card stock, so stock miata front brakes it is.

Moti


Attachments:
File comment: Tilton floor mounted pedals, set for 2 brake MCs and come with a balance bar.
IMG_1602w.jpg
IMG_1602w.jpg [ 116.01 KiB | Viewed 8423 times ]
File comment: New wheels are pretty!
13x7.5 Lenso VPD in glossy white, only 8 lbs a piece and a sweet 5 spoke design.

IMG_1605w.jpg
IMG_1605w.jpg [ 82.45 KiB | Viewed 8406 times ]
File comment: A macro shot of the gap beween the caliper and the rim from the inside.
There's barely enough space to stick a paper between them...

IMG_1609w.jpg
IMG_1609w.jpg [ 42.37 KiB | Viewed 8404 times ]

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My R1 powered Locost build log

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 10:16 am 
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Blackbird wrote:
I tried test fitting the new wheel over a stock miata front rotor (94-97) with my wilwood caliper and found that I may be able to fit a paper in the gap between them, but don't even think about card stock, so stock miata front brakes it is.

You'll find, as I did, that small rocks and stones will get between the caliper and wheel and leave some nasty gouges in both. I even saw the same thing on a high-end Ferrari with huge brakes and calipers. Big long gouges in the wheels due to the close fit.

If it's really, really close, and there's any flex at all, or if the wheel bearing is slighly loose, it can cause the wheel to contact the caliper. I'm not sure how bad this is, but it's probably not good. Make sure there's always some clearance. From the pictures it looks like you can grind off 1/8" or so and clear up the problem before it starts.

Also, on your choice of wheels, they may be an issue with some timetrial/HPDE/trackday organizations. Some don't like the "multilug" hub, having eight holes instead of four. Obviously this is only an issue if you plan to track the car.

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