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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 10:46 pm 
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Wow, looks like you'll be driving it soon. :cheers:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 1:32 am 
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I'm hoping to have a rolling chassis in the next couple of weeks.
Parting out that extra miata that I bought makes the locost progress much faster than before - nothing makes a racecar go faster than good ol' cash :lol:

Moti

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 10:16 am 
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Blackbird wrote:
nothing makes a racecar go faster than good ol' cash :lol:
A choice part from Shopcraft as Soulcraft is a sign hanging on the wall of a VW speed shop that reads "How fast do you want to spend?"


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 12:12 am 
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Following some discussion about the 5VY cooling system, the cooling system's upper and lower hard pipes are done!
I'm pretty excited about them because they came out better than I expected.
The main pipes are 1"x0.058" aluminum and I did all the bending, drilling, bead rolling and the machining of the adapters and fittings.
A buddy of mine TIG welded all the pieces together for me (thanks, Steven!).

The machined adapters at the radiator ends of the pipes are from 1" to 1.1" which is what the Civic rad uses (the R1 uses 1").
I'm waiting for a silicone hose that I ordered to be able to finish the system.

I've been spending some quality time on the lathe lately, I'm currently getting the tie rod extensions done.
Soon I'll be able to turn the wheel and see the front wheels moving :mrgreen: ...

Moti


Attachments:
File comment: Lower pipe
IMG_8999w.jpg
IMG_8999w.jpg [ 137.43 KiB | Viewed 2524 times ]
File comment: Upper pipe - the Tstat hose will get cut to the right length, the lower barb is for the oil cooler return line and the upper barb is for the thermostat bypass
IMG_9007w.jpg
IMG_9007w.jpg [ 133.42 KiB | Viewed 2522 times ]

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My R1 powered Locost build log

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 11:16 pm 
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You previously stated

"That shiftlite is cool but only gives you the tach readout, the stock R1 dash has more on display plus some warning lights.
What I'm really hoping to find is a nice sequential shift lite a-la F1 with something like 12-15 LEDs and place it right behind the shifter along with a digital gear display (in case I lose count)... I know I can easily find such thing, but the trick will be to bring it at the right (read: low) price."

These might be what you are looking for. Are you giving rides for help ;)

http://hackaday.com/2010/06/04/motorcyc ... indicator/
http://hackaday.com/2010/05/01/motorcyc ... 0computer/


Michael


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:22 am 
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Why do you have a oil line tied in with your rad line?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 10:09 am 
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The oil cooler is a sandwich plate that coolant goes through.
The line isn't an oil line, it's a coolant line from the oil cooler.

Moti

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:42 pm 
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Never seen a liquid cooled oil cooler before. Let's see it.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:50 pm 
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Location: snow city - it's wet!
Moti, I suspect you've seen the thread I linked to in the BEC section, but figured I'd post it for others who haven't snooped the UK forums.

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=11210

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Last edited by erioshi on Fri Oct 15, 2010 8:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 8:08 pm 
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Looking good! Any idea on a weight?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 1:22 am 
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Mike, I saw the thread and read the original thread in the UK forum back in 09.
I'm not entirely sure about the need for the oil cooler if you run an accusump because of the increased oiling sys capacity.
I guess I'll when I'm there, my car has planty of space to fit a small cooler in the engine bay and putting a sandwich plate for the cooler lines under the filter is a piece of cake.

After some reading on the accusump, I'm not sure that 2QT is the right size to go with on the R1 motor, I think that a 1QT tank will do a better job keeping up, not to mention that it'll be much easier to package in my car.
I actually have a 2QT accusump that I'm looking to sell or trade for a 1QT system, so if anyone's interested shoot me a PM.
I'm planning on getting the system with the EPC valve, most likely at 35 psi though I need to research it a bit more.
Anyone has a good answer as to what oil press the 5VY feels healthy at?

Matthew, I'm shooting for something in the neighbourhood of 1150 lbs.
While it is heavier than quite a few BECs that are running around here, it is the only one that I know of that is really getting built to full race spec which adds a bunch of weight - proper fuel cell, fire system, massive cage and such all add up...

I did save weight by going with really light wheels and tires (24 lbs a corner!), aluminum body shocks, thinner tubes used in sections of the frame, lightweight seats, aluminum floor and speed holes :wink:

Moti

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:56 pm 
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Moti,

Looks good! I've been following your build while building my own.

Matt

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 8:59 am 
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We are Slotus!
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^^^ Like Matt said... I look in on your build every time there's a new post. I still find your build totally amazing. Can't wait to see the finished product!

Good Luck, and keep on building!!!!
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 2:48 am 
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Thanks guys!

I've been chipping away on some of the small stuff so no big updates but the build is moving forward.

Moti

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 1:26 am 
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I have a working steering system!
The tie rod extensions are bolt on pieces, the male thread is a bolt that was cut and welded the full circle at the base but also two plug welds.
The welds are at the shoulder of the bolt, not the thread.

The inner tie rods are still the miata pieces while the outer tie rods are from a 3rd gen RX7 (FD 93-95).
The RX7 outer tie rod Mazda part number is B455-32-280, just in case anyone's interested.

Moti


Attachments:
File comment: Tie rod extension
IMG_9198w.jpg
IMG_9198w.jpg [ 57.2 KiB | Viewed 2106 times ]
IMG_9198wx.jpg
IMG_9198wx.jpg [ 19 KiB | Viewed 2106 times ]
IMG_9199w.jpg
IMG_9199w.jpg [ 100.95 KiB | Viewed 2106 times ]

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