LocostUSA.com

The axles do not have to be perpedicular to the chassis centerline (look under a 911 porsche). The CV joints can deal with the alignment being off a bit. Put the dif where it needs to be and run the axles at a slight angle back to the hubs.

I'm aware of the fact that the differential can be offset from the spindles. However, by moving everything forward, I am able to gain the full 1.5"of trunk space (front to back). If I can't get everything to work out in SolidWorks, I will consider the offset.

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

This will be about as far as I go in SolidWorks. Other little details, like the aluminum body are not necessary in the model. I still need to work on my shock mounts, but I'm not too sure how I want to finish them (to make them strong enough). I will figure it out after I have started welding the frame, since its one of the last major components I will mount. Another thing that I will need to sort out is covering the gas tank and battery. I'm not sure of the best way to do that yet. I made the frame around the A-arms and differential in such a way that its really easy to cover up with metal or plywood. Around the gas tank and battery will be a bit more tricky to maximize space and make it look good.




Notice, the differential will easily drop straight through the bottom of the car when I need to take it out. -Sweet!

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

I'd consider running two tubes per shock down to the upper a-arm mounting points. Run them from the inside of your shocks on the oposite side as the frame rail. then just cap them off with a plate above the shock to box it in. this should provide very stiff mounts with minimal added tubing. You could then put in a bolt-in cross brace to keep them super rigid, but I think that would probably be overkill.

Have you considered running pushrods? They can be sorta difficult to plan, but you could clean up the upper a-arm shape and make it easier to fabricate so it may be worth it. I'm assuming your retaining your solid axle shocks, so you'll want to get as close to a 1:1 motion ratio as possible. This would actually be easier with pushrods than with the standard orientation you are using. Your layout looks like it would be fairly easy to find good rigid points to mount the bellcranks and the shocks. Just a thought.

Looks like overall it's a good design though. You may consider a bolt in subfloor to strengthen the area behind the diff. Just a simple 4 point |X| shaped brace crossing under the diff. Using Lugged bolts and captive nuts it should be easy to bolt in/take out, but would stiffen your rear-lower mounts and the diff.

Nice solid modeling too. That's about how far along I got my MG before I started. Sometimes it's just not worth it to go any further due to the unknowns with actual part sizes. We just don't have the time to get super accurate part models (diff, halfshafts, shocks, uprights etc.) although it's great when you can. Our FSAE car had a "good" engine model of a CBR600f4 motor, however the harness bar crashed into the valve cover. We modded the engine rather than the chassis and learned our lesson when we failed endurance due to a leaky valve cover.. Lesson learned.

Daniel

_________________
MG midget bodied Locostish car in progress

That is actually a good idea. I hadn't thought about joining the shock mount to the upper a-arm mounting points. Looking at my Solid model, I see an immediate problem with it though. I've designed the trunk to fit my largest suitcase. The picture below shows how the suitcase would sit in the trunk as it is with my current model. A new (straight) tube would interfere with the suitcase. I will experiment with some curved tubes, to see if I can get something to work. I still think its a great idea.



I did some experimenting with push rods, but didn't see much benefit in using them. I wouldn't save any space, and there was no aerodynamic benefit (like there is in the front). I'm keeping it simple this time.

I don't see the need for an |X| on the bottom. Everything is well triangulated for lateral movement, both top and bottom. I will keep it in mind, if I find it an issue while building.

Thanks for your input!

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

I spent some money yesterday. I bought all the new steel I need and a 4 x 8 sheet of 0.040" aluminum. I spent the morning tidying up the garage, and worked in the afternoon, making brackets and I started the 2 lower A-arms. I forgot how long it takes to make simple U brackets!
NOTE: I will be using better rod ends than the ones pictured. I've already bought nice Chromemoly rod ends, with a teflon lining, but wont use them until final assembly.





I've got to do some homework today, but I hope to put in a couple hours of work on the car tonight. We'll see.

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

Looks like good progress. I had forgotten how fast you work.

_________________
He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.

No kidding! Can't wait to see it finished.

Rod

_________________
Driving a +442E with 450 Hp Ford 347 v8, T5, 8 stack EFI w/EDIS8 & MegaSquirt ITB Mode.
12,000+ enthusiastic miles as of 1/1/11
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqvYJlYc4GU
http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p3/beergodrod/
Now building a 1953 Chevy 1 ton panel with Frito Lay truck parts and a Cummins 4BTA
and a 1963 Nova SS

Thanks guys. As long as I can spare time away from the girlfriend and school, I will be making constant progress.

I had a couple hours tonight to work on the car and I got my upper A-arms done. It took 6ft of wasting tubing before I got those bends right. PIPE BENDERS CAN BEND THIN WALL TUBING! I knew that before, but by stuffing the tube with sand, and doing the bend in many steps, I was about to get decent bends.


Those A-arms are sitting on the start of my mini build table. I will set it up under the car this weekend, if all goes to plan.

I also cut off the rear of the car. This was a VERY difficult thing to do (emotionally). Who in the right mind would cut off the back of a perfectly good car? Oh ya, I would.

***Warning, graphical images for any Locost lover!***

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

That first cut must have been an emotional rollercoaster!

Rod

_________________
Driving a +442E with 450 Hp Ford 347 v8, T5, 8 stack EFI w/EDIS8 & MegaSquirt ITB Mode.
12,000+ enthusiastic miles as of 1/1/11
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqvYJlYc4GU
http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p3/beergodrod/
Now building a 1953 Chevy 1 ton panel with Frito Lay truck parts and a Cummins 4BTA
and a 1963 Nova SS

Yes it was. It has taken me a couple of months to build up the courage to do it.



Quick update:

I set up the build table under the car, and got everything square to the car, and level to the ground.



I started off by making the mounts for the differential. Modifications were done to the existing frame to allow for the extra width of the differential. Diff mounted:



After I was done with the differential, I took it off the table and started with the new frame:



Then, I spent some time making brackets for the suspension, and I am currently working on getting the lower front mounts set up. They are the most tricky.

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

I finally got a chance to work in the garage today. I finished up the suspension mounts first, and attached the A-arms and spindles to them to see how everything lined up. The passenger side fit perfectly! The driver's side needed a bit of adjustment, but that wasn't a big deal.





After that, I took out the A-arms, and added more braces:



Up next is to build the round tubing portion, to close in the back. I had to stop here, becuase I need to bend some tubing. I really want a conduit bender for 3/4", but they cost $50 at Home Depot. I'm looking for other options right now. Last time, I used pre-bent EMT pieces, but I shouldn't be welding galvanized steel.

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

If you remove the galvanizing near where you plan to weld, you'll do just fine. A wirewheel should be able to take it off.

I've been using a frap wheel to remove the galvanizing on the outside, the inside doesn't seem to be a problem.

_________________
John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

Dude...that is HARSH! I don't know if I could cut mine in half...even with a good plan.

You're not really using that face shield for welding are you? How can you weld with only one hand? Do yourself a favor and drop $50 on a cheap LCD welding helmet. You won't regret it.

-dave

_________________
...nowadays people are so intellectually lazy and lethargic that they can't build ANYTHING with their hands. They'll spend hours watching whiny people marooned on an island, but won't spend a second adding anything to the world. -weconway
Visit my [Locost 7 build log]