LocostUSA.com

I've seen them for sale, but I haven't seen a blueprint for them. I am just curious about the dimensions and things like KPI. If we had that information I would make a model for Vsusp and also SketchUp. I think Rad has been happy with his and he was a speedy guy at our local tracks when he was racing, so he is unlikely to choose a flimsy part.

Before you put your car together perhaps you could get evan some rough numbers from it.

So far as the Pinto spindles go, did you consider or would it have been possible to use heim joints or spherical bearings to fit it further into your wheels? Would it be possible to mount those bearings on the opposite side of the uprights bolt holes?

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

mm. not so much, they have a regular series at charlotte motor speedway. they run a small oval trak that uses part of the front straightaway

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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.

With 13" wheels I want to run, no way. 15" would work but not 13". I also looked at the Mustang II dropped spindles. No help there either. Legends are the way to go for a race car as long as it is light enough.

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356

The legends uprights also have pre packaged hub and Wilwood brake kits for a very resonable price. Quality stuff that is also duable for a 1,300# car that is.

http://northeastlegendstore.com/wilwood ... gends.aspx

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356

I am so itching to get my car back on track. These are the pics at the first autocross back in April about 35 seconds before I blew up the engine. She was running sweet with the better tires and different spring rates in front. Notice I also changed the rear fenders/spoiler due to potential protest threat. It's going to be a long winter

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356

Snow will soon fly so back to my garage to fire up the heater and start reconfiguring for the new power unit.

Got my lightweight single mass flywheel from Clutchmasters last week. I now need a good racing clutch. Clutchmasters clutches seems a little high at around $700.00. I hear a Kentucky Clutch and South Bend Clutch makes good units in the under $500 range for a good Stage 2 or Stage 3 puck type that can handle up to 300 ft/lbs TQ. Might try a custom clutch from South Bend Clutch (DXD) since they are local to me. Any thought on other options?

Still have to get the motor form a parts yard. Prices seem steady at about $1,200 complete wih turbo and harness/ECU.

_________________
Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356

Yo Loco!
Nice lookin' shiny things ya got there... Hope the engine swap goes well. I'll be interested in how the Bow-Tie turbo four performs. The specs on them look good.

Yeah, that's why I put the Slotus into A-Mod. Not because it's that fast, but just so's I could build any damn thing I wanted to!

Keep us posted on your progress, and try to stay warm!
Regards-
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Did you check to see if competition clutch makes a clutch for your setup?

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Competition Clutch does not list one. I will call them. Thanks!

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356

Got the motor in the shop now and took some dimensions you can see here in the Engines forum:http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=16446#p193128

The motor is a 2013 Chevy Cruze that had only 16,xxx miles on it. Only paid $1,100 delivered to my door complete with PCM, engine harness, turbo & starter. I still need the alternator and all the cooling stuff, intercooler, etc.. Also got a full set of 2013 GM Chevy Cruze shop manuals. The manuals cost me $300 for the set but the motor is much more complex than the 1982 Mazda 12A. Welcome to the 21st Century. They will come in handy.

Also got a stainless race downpipe with O/2 port to replace the cat for a pretty good deal. It was shiny, will fit my exhaust routing perfectly and I could not pass it up.

This is a very compact power plant. I will still have to cut and weld the frame to fit the specific motor. Time to fire up the garage heater and get going!

_________________
Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356

Do you plan to stay with the stock turbo for now? Del can shed some light on his experiences as he's gone too big and now closer to "just right" on Ellerby's.

Stock turbo with a trifecta tune with premium gas to start and maybe E85 next. Still much to do on the suspension with inceremental changes for the next few years. I'm basically starting over and Del has been helpful. I just want to get on the track next year. I can't believe how cheap the stock motors are from the junkyards.

_________________
Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356

Locofinn,

i have just read your whole post, very interesting, i have a few questions about the front and in particular the scrub radius, you intend to change this using ledgend parts, is this purely to reduce the scrub to allow easier/quicker steering inputs?

i noticed in your first drive video that you had a steering wheel with a red top, this was good to see the amount of turn required to turn the car which seemed to be too much, is what i'm seeing true? too many turns lock to lock.

and why did you change the wheel?

the forward facing lower control arm strut, is this any advantage over a rear facing strut or two equally spaced struts?

i have to ask, how low is your roll center at the front and is the rear significantly higher?

what are you currently running for spring rates and what are your corner weights?

the last question is how wide a 13" tire do you consider wide enough?

i have only one other comment in that you need something to locate the rear of the hood because if you smack the car and it comes off it could hit you edge on in the throat.

if some of this is "TOP SECRET" i would appreciate a pm,

very good effort especially using stock off the shelf suspension components.

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this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.

What kind of hp are people getting on that motor?

I see it's only 138 hp stock but I'm betting there's a kinda standard way to mod that gives something better than that.

Did you compare it in size and weight to the 2.0 LNF turbo?

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

I'm curious what specifically is your protest threat that you are no longer running a full width spoiler? I can kind of see the old fender shape as detracting from the identity of the car. But the wording of the spoiler rule (at least in the 2014 rule book) very specifically states that the spoiler on all cars is allowed to continue horizontally from the 10" point on the centerline, out to the width of the wheel openings, and extend down to wherever it happens to intersect with the rear fender shape.


Class rules limit forced induction engines to 1428cc or less.

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie