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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 2:14 pm 
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Are we sitting in a circle?...I'll stand up; "Hi, my name is Tim Polnau and I have a proble....project".
It all started years ago; I was in the library ( free books ) and came across Ron's book. After taking it out continuously, I decided to buy it.
I then started browsing the UK sites. With a head full of UK ideas, I picked up an XR4ti to use as my donor. I carefully spent alot of time stripping it down to the shell. Let me state for the record - it takes me a long time to do anything. Maybe if i don't use it - I can sell it ( never really been successful with that). I gave the stripped body to my brother-in-law to take away for scrap. The wiring for the car I labeled every...single... connection - and took it out whole....the entire thing; it's now sitting in a box in the shed.
Now I have a drivetrain...which is really tall and heavy. The book chassis isn't going to do it. McSorley's 442 would work - but I wasn't sure I needed the size ( I'm not the largest guy in the room ). I thought I would combine the two plans - and came up with a 221. Perfect. I started my build. Wait, maybe I should insulate the garage first - this is a better winter project than a summer one. ( I live just outside Winnipeg, MB, Canada ). That done - and a heater installed, I started building. I got some 4"x7" beams made out of MDF ( for free ) that would make a good base. I topped it off with a 3/4" MDF sheet and i was good for a table. I started on the lower rails... picking up the Haynes book - awesome. My build size and my donor. At about halfway down the frame I just used the Haynes book, figuring it would make the rear suspension an easy install. So after several years, I now have the frame done. As I was doing the frame I added some of the Aussie mods.
The plan now is to move ahead much, much more quickly. What I can post to add to the forum?...how not to do something. I have done lots of research, but I have a mind like a sieve. Makes everyday a new day.
Here's a shot of the frame on the second build table. (The first one I made 12' long so nothing would have to overhang. Then I took it apart once everything was tacked together - and built a rotisserie for the final welding. So now I rebuilt the table to make putting the suspension/drivetrain in.)


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 5:13 pm 
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Location: Under the weather. (Seattle)
The chassis is looking good so far...But that garage is FAR too organized to believe you actually work on it in there! :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 6:41 pm 
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Look'n good Tim.
That's one crazy solid build table.

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Chris

I'm not saying I'm Batman, I'm just saying nobody has ever seen me and Batman in a room together

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12374


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 8:45 pm 
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Yo Tim!
Welcome to the forum. Good lookin' table and the chassis ain't so bad neither!
Quote:
What I can post to add to the forum?...how not to do something.

Nope, that's my job... :mrgreen:
Keep the updates and pictures coming, looks like you're off to a great start!
:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 12:18 am 
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Location: Rosser manitoba canada
Where about outside Winnipeg ?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 1:05 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Hi Tim from Winterpeg!

Rock solid looking build table. Like Driven5 sez, garage is way too clean. Good looking frame. Don't be scared to post lots of build pics, Gonzo likes looking at pictures.................for that matter so do I.

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Perry

2 down, 2 to go

'If man built it, man can fix it'

"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12234

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14030


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:07 am 
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Welcome to the slow builders club and don't let speed-builders like Perry discourage you! :lol:! At least we (slow builders) get to see lots of ways of doing things before touching MIG wire to steel.

To reitierate Perry's advice, if you are looking for help or feedback, photos will generally draw a response.

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 10:27 am 
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Hey guys,

Tim and I work in the same building for the same company (obviously there must be something wrong with the water in the building for us both to be affected by the locost disease) and we've begun pushing each other to get on with our builds. Hopefully it'll work and we'll both having driving rollers next summer (that's the goal).

Keep building and keep posting Tim!

Bill

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Winnipeg, MB, Canada


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 11:17 am 
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
BHRmotorsport wrote:
obviously there must be something wrong with the water in the building for us both to be affected by the locost disease

Yo Bill-
You sure it ain't hypothermia??? *Hides behind palm tree* :twisted:

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Don't be scared to post lots of build pics, Gonzo likes looking at pictures.....

Yep, pictures is real purty, and I don't have to try to read all the writin' that you is done wroten on that thar 'puter thang... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JD "Product of the North Carolina public school system" Kemp

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 5:11 pm 
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Thanks.
Egoman : I'm in Oakbank ( north east of the city ).

Don't worry about it looking too clean in there...it's like a fat lady ordering a small diet coke; you know you're not seeing the whole picture.

OK - so after I've done all the welding on the frame... I find out that a Sierra diff and XR4Ti are not the same. 7" vers 7.5". One bracket from the Haynes plans works - but the top bolt on the right hand side is slightly offset. I "adapted" that bracket - think that should work.

Attachment:
diff-bracket.gif
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The other difference is the slight offsetting on that right side. I took 1 cm out of the frame - and re-welded the tube back.



The 7" Sierra diff has equal length axles - my xr4ti has unequal length, but I'm hoping the overall width is the same. I'll double check once I start making the wishbones.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 9:07 am 
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Hi Tim-
Your re-done diff bracket (EEEK! I said "bracket"...) looks pretty good. Without seeing a wider view of the mount(s) for the diff, I can't tell if this warning is needed or not, but... Here it goes... I want to caution you that the twisting forces on the differential are quite strong. Depending on engine torque, tire contact patch, gear ratios, etc, you might just see a LOT of twist on the differential. (Ask me how I know this. Go on, ask. :mrgreen: ) I guess what I'm trying to say is, always err to the side of bigger and stronger on those diff mounts! (Well, up to a point...)

Just my .02, but for you, GI, no charge!
:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 1:26 pm 
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Location: worcester county, Massachsetts
Tim, very kewl! nice to see somebody doing a straight-up Haynes. I owned and drove a 1989 XR4Ti from 1997 until '01 about. welcome to the forums.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 11:04 pm 
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Hey there Gonzo -

I am definitely not even in the same room as an engineer - so ears open. I needed to move just the "ear" over on the bracket - but it put it inline with the chassis mounting bolt, so that's when I got creative.

Here is a shot from the other side - I welded as much structure as I could - and hoping that later on - it will be ok.

Attachment:
diff bracket other side.jpg
diff bracket other side.jpg [ 76.94 KiB | Viewed 1194 times ]


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 11:18 pm 
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Hi Robbovius -

thanks. That was the plan in the beginning....I now have mustang 11 spindles that I was planing on using - and a new mustang 11 rack ( that I'm not sure of anymore ). I bought an 86 thunderbird for the T-5 trans ( and kept the 2.3L as well ). I thought the T-9 may not be up to it; as I think 250hp would be fun.

I'm still thinking about the driveshaft. The T-5 uses a large yoke - the xr4ti a tiny one. A local shop quoted me $600 to merge the two, but they wanted to use a rather large u-joint.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 8:30 am 
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I can recall - from back in my XR4 driving days - going over online info regarding swapping in a T5 to replace the T9, as the T9 was thought to be torque-limited when beefing up the 2.3 output.

I think the mustang 2 parts are one of the better choices (along with Miata front end parts) for the locost front end, simply because they're so well supported in the aftermarket. Speedway motors sells all sorts of new MustII parts, including spindles with a 2 inch drop, brake kits, new manual and power racks, etc...

I've already got a set of Miata spindles stashed away for the next proj. but if I didn't...Mustang II would be plan B, y'know?

as far as making up a hybrid driveshaft from T5 and T9 parts - and coming from my experience succesfully putting together the B-3 driveshaft - I would likely have ago at simply cutting and mating the two somewhere along the length.

I do recall my 89 XR4Ti had a rubber Isolator (the infamous Guibo) just after the tranny output U-joint, then a length of shaft to the center bearing, and then the secondary shaft to the diff housing. IIRC, the T5 driveshaft is one piece from the tranny tailshaft, to the rear axle (Live axle on the Tbird Turbo coupe)

If it was me - and I know it isn't ;-) - I would cut the T5 driveshaft somewhere along the length from the tranny talishaft, and then cut the T9 driveshaft similarly, and weld the two together. I'd fixture it for straightness and concentricity, and make sure the weld was solid, but otherwise, would have a go. Too Busy welded up his own hybrid driveshaft for his Centaur rebuild.

what are the diameters of the two driveshafts?

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