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I don't quite get what you are saying - can you talk slower??

Seriously, that photo was from an article that made sense. I can't seem to understand what you are saying. 1 -(-1) should equal 2 shouldn't it? We may be saying the same thing in different ways, but I want to be sure I'm not missing something.

Bottom line, I want the angle parallel to the ground on the gearbox and diff the same not to "cross paths" - so if the gearbox is pointed down to the ground with 3 degrees, the diff should be pointed up from the ground that same 3 degrees. Likewise, when comparing the longitudinal axes, both the diff and gearbox should be aligned with the chassis centerline (though offset of not more than 4 degrees is fine - the second photo shows that idea). Does that make sense? And more importantly, is that a correct assumption?

Thanks for the input!

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

You are right I corrected the math. It should have been addition not subtraction 1° +(-1°) = 0


Does that make sense now?

I have read that the mismatch, aka cancelled angle, should not exceed some number (it changes depending on the author. I would suggest to target < 1°) And for high speed use no single angle should exceed another angle (again depending on the author. I'd shoot for <3° for a track car) In order to prevent spot wear in the u-joints and a short life, I have read that you should have at least 1° on each joint.

I am no expert on this matter. I have just summarized what I have read over the years from those that went before us (mostly here on this site) .

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Perfect - now I think I get what you were saying. "Expert" is always relative! Thanks for your help.

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

Got the gearbox mounted - I ended up lowering it a bit to match the diff. I'm just hoping it isn't too low - the shifter is in a great spot, and the engine seems to have enough clearance. We'll see - I can always shim both the engine and gearbox together to get them up if needed.







Then I started working on the steering. I still need to build the steering column frame, but I ordered a bearing - turns out the one in the Saturn plans is available in the US and it's pretty cheap too. So I'll make CP16a to the Saturn plan.





After that, I figured I should really locate the rack to figure out the column routing. So I stated on the part I've been dreading, shortening the rack. I disassembled and depowered it pretty quickly - wish that was it! Then I took measurements based on the mounting height in the Haynes plans. I figured it would take 127mm removal to optimize the rack length. I then sectioned and removed one of the power steering line inputs on the housing. After that, I welded up the other hole, and put the two halves together. I stuck the rack back in the housing and used some angle iron to make sure it stayed true. Now I'm at a point of decision - to section the rack or just cut the length off the non-toothed end and tap a new set of threads for the tie rod. I'm leaning toward the latter, but had some questions on it before I deal with it (See the suspension topic thread if you have any input!!).

Here's the housing:



Once I get the rack sorted, I'll finish up the column/steering wheel. Then it'll be on to the pedal assembly!! Woohoo!

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

Please do not section the rack (if I think I know what you're talking about). Cut the non tooth end to length, if it's male threads machine the end down with new threads, if it's female threads drill and tap new threads. Do not cut a piece of the rack in the middle and weld it up to shorten it - not safe work practice in my opinion.
It's not a problem doing that with the rack body, but not the rack itself.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
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Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

So the rack is at the machine shop - I cut it to length and bought the tap, but I don't have a 16mm drill bit and I want to be sure it is tapped straight anyway. I had already sectioned the housing successfully. So I tackled the steering column mount. I used the swivel bearing from the Saturn plans on CP16. I also just fitted the steering wheel and fabbed the mount for the column based on where I sit. It came out really well I think! I also went ahead and mounted the housing for the rack since I have that finished.











I'm starting on the pedal box now. I am thinking I'm going to try to use the stock clutch master/slave for now. My donor had power brakes, and I'm wondering if anyone has used that master cylinder or has any opinions on that route. All suggestions welcome. My plan is to use the Haynes pedal box and modify it for the MX-5 stuff like Saturn did (but with the stock clutch master since I'm building a LHD). I would disassemble the power system and make a manual brake set up out of it if that's possible. See below to see what I mean:





Again, any help is welcome!

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

Also on pedals...

Has anyone used the stock Miata gas pedal and shortened it? It looks like you could just mount it using the existing two mount holes if you trimmed off the clutch pedal bracketry. It would definitely be too long though, so you would have to cut and reweld the pedal rod to shorten it up a bit. See the stock below:





Then I could use floor mount pedals as in the post above, but use the stock Miata pedal for gas. Really curious on how this set up feels if anyone has used it. I could always build it and modify it later if it doesn't work out...

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

yes used the stock master and it was ok , and yes used and shortened the loud pedal

I'm not sure if they are similar, I used the RX7 donor's brake master (w/booster deleted) , along with the OEM proportioning valve. But then again, I was also using the donor's brake calipers too. Something to consider. YMMV.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

When deleting the booster you should look at relocating the push rod pivot point so you have a pedal ratio around 5 to 1. [caveat if wifey is also driving the car increase to 6 or 7 to1] Also you may find that the stock proportioning valve may not work with the new system. Keep that in mind while laying out the system. DaveW

Any photos?

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

That sounds complicated - more research on math stuff for me! I had planned on using the measurements in the Saturn plans (which are based on the Haynes pedal box), but I'm not sure what pedal ratio it has.

I am using the donor calipers (for now). You think the proportioning valve won't work because the booster is gone? What's a good replacement, since I won't have a front and rear MC?

Thanks again all for the input!

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

I believe that my pedal ratio was about 6 to 1 or maybe even 6.25 to 1. That would require less foot pressure for the same stopping power. I measured and copied a Wilwood and Tilton pedal ratio. I see now that 6 to 1 is what Wilwood recommends as a starting point.

That is what is so much fun about building these cars. There are so many personal choices to make. And if those choices don't work out, you can do it over. You'll know so much more about the subject the 2nd time around.

As someone once said, "Good decisions come from experience, and experience comes from poor decisions." The fun is in the journey.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Getting there Randy. Sorting the steering and pedals is a big deal.

I like brake boosters, my preferance is for a light, short travel pedal, makes it more enjoyable on a day to day basis as well, there's a reason a billion or 2 cars have them.

Worked on the parking brake today. I'm hoping to pick up the rack later today so I can finish up the steering as well. With the brakes, I can see I'll need a different flex brake line for sure, and I'm going to have to fab up a parking brake mount at the caliper end - probably modify the one that's there. That'll be needed to clear the rear firewall. The hand brake itself went in easily - I welded the nuts to avoid any issues once the panels are in place.











Does anyone have a stock handbrake from a '93 Miata? Is it bent like this stock?


Thanks for the help - I'm headed down to the local race supply to look at some pedal designs (I like holding them in my hand better than looking at pictures and drawings).

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774