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PostPosted: September 18, 2018, 11:48 am 
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Oops, forgot the pic. Obviously not your first turbo. Very nice! :cheers:
The closest I ever will get to owning an elise was when I test drove at the Mitty. :cry:

The one unmodded hole helps to keep it all centered.


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360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
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PostPosted: September 18, 2018, 2:08 pm 
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Thanks for the image! This is what I was thinking based on the old GReddy mandifold cuts that seemed to cure the cracking issues:

Attachment:
GReddy_Manifold_cuts.jpg


Thoughts?


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PostPosted: September 19, 2018, 6:26 pm 
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Makes sense to me, except I'd make the center cut fully through and slot/oversize most of the holes.

Yeah, it was a greddy kit that I started with. Everything but the vpu and turbo was crap. Then when the manifold cracked, it took months to get a replacement but eventually it was trouble free.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: September 19, 2018, 7:32 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Makes sense to me, except I'd make the center cut fully through and slot/oversize most of the holes.

Yeah, it was a greddy kit that I started with. Everything but the vpu and turbo was crap. Then when the manifold cracked, it took months to get a replacement but eventually it was trouble free.

How deep do the incisions have to be?

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PostPosted: September 20, 2018, 8:39 am 
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The flanges for each port should be separated from each other fully, with sufficient gap to allow for expansion.

There should room around the studs for the same reason. Slotting holes with a radial file instead of oversize holes allows more of the nut to contact the flange.

The radial cuts around the bolt holes in the flanges reduce the effective cross-section of the flange to be closer to that of the tube, so they can expand near the same rate for the same amount of heat.

Cracks happen when parts cannot expand evenly. The turbo is a restriction so the exhaust is hottest at the flange on the manifold. Linear growth from expansion along the head flange is what we are trying to make room for. Worst case for cracking is if the turbo cokes up and stops turning. DIY "weld els" manifolds, made of very thick wall steel pipe sections are the most reliable, hold the most heat in for more boost and less damaging to everything around it, but are also very heavy and there is no way to tune with runner length.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: September 20, 2018, 10:38 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
The flanges for each port should be separated from each other fully, with sufficient gap to allow for expansion.

There should room around the studs for the same reason. Slotting holes with a radial file instead of oversize holes allows more of the nut to contact the flange.

The radial cuts around the bolt holes in the flanges reduce the effective cross-section of the flange to be closer to that of the tube, so they can expand near the same rate for the same amount of heat.

Cracks happen when parts cannot expand evenly. The turbo is a restriction so the exhaust is hottest at the flange on the manifold. Linear growth from expansion along the head flange is what we are trying to make room for. Worst case for cracking is if the turbo cokes up and stops turning. DIY "weld els" manifolds, made of very thick wall steel pipe sections are the most reliable, hold the most heat in for more boost and less damaging to everything around it, but are also very heavy and there is no way to tune with runner length.

Ok pretty cool. Makes sense.

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PostPosted: October 23, 2018, 11:35 am 
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Man the little things take time without showing much progress! I got the brake line tabs for the flexhose welded on, made seat brackets with sliders for both sides, got the seatbelt anchors finished, and a bunch of other small things. Then it was time to disassemble to finish weld/grind the chassis. Paint soon!

Attachment:
IMG_2969.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_2970.JPG


After I finally got the frame over the engine and craned the engine/gearbox out of the way, I was able to get the frame back on the table - that was fun. Now I have to clean up the shop so I can work again!!


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PostPosted: October 25, 2018, 11:18 am 
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That's an interesting approach to placing the motor mount plates, Randy. Did you put them under the main chassis rail as a way of lowering the engine?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: October 29, 2018, 4:53 pm 
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Sorry - missed this. It is really done that way because I followed the Saturn plans, and that is how they have the mounts in the plan. I've seen a bunch of finished Haynes/MX5 cars in the UK use the same set up. It wouldn't really help lower the mounts, just change the angle on the mount really.

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PostPosted: November 2, 2018, 11:35 am 
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So I'm welding and grinding away at the moment. Just flipped the car onto its side to finish weld the bottom.

Attachment:
IMG_2995.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_2996.JPG


It occurred to me to ask you guys: before I paint, is there anything you wish you had welded after you had the chassis powdercoated or painted? I'm sure there are things I may have forgotten, but can't think of any...

Thanks!


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PostPosted: November 6, 2018, 1:42 pm 
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No replies on what to weld before painting? Anyone...

So the welding is almost done. I added some tie-downs which will also act as jacking points. I went over it numerous times, and finally don't see any gaps left. Then grinded anywhere that will be paneled or in plain view in the cockpit.

Attachment:
IMG_3005.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_3006.JPG


I also received my steering parts.

Attachment:
IMG_3004.JPG


Finally, after talking to a few folks, I found a kit from KMiata to reinforce the differential from where they seem to fail on our cars.

Attachment:
IMG_3002.JPG



Paint to follow.


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PostPosted: November 13, 2018, 1:21 am 
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Some final work (yeah right) before painting. I ended up making a plate for a forward cage mount, even though I'm not sure I'll go that route. I like Emile's solution with two different cages, so I wanted to give myself that option down the road. I also made plates for the rear stays. Now it should be ready to clean up for paint. I'll be using the POR15 TopCoat that I used on my CB750 motorcycle project. It's held up really well in Texas humidity and Colorado sun.

Photos:

Attachment:
IMG_3009.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_3010.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_3011.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_3012.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_3014.JPG


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PostPosted: November 13, 2018, 10:24 am 
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Looking very nice. You've achieved an important milestone.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: November 18, 2018, 6:08 pm 
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Nice work.. ill bet youll be running before me...

The only regret I have, not really related to welding but, was the quality of paint that may be exposed to brake fluid.. even though it was a 2k epoxy, it wasnt fluid resistant and bubled when exposed to brake fluid.

See if you can intercept some time expired FR primer from stores.. when you need to replace or service brake componets, you wont sweat the drips of fluid that are inevitable.

Andrew

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PostPosted: November 25, 2018, 10:13 pm 
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Thanks airframefixer and Lonnie-S!

Finished up painting today. I just used the POR15. I am always petrified of brake fluid - the brake/clutch masters on my classic Mini are in a painted (gloss red normal paint) area. Why deny myself that same joy with the Seven!? To be honest, the POR15 is tough and much easier. We'll see how it holds up over time. Like I've said before though, I've been really happy with it on my CB750 frame.

Now I have to figure out the order I want to put it back together. I need to make and attach the floor, then I figure suspension and steering so I can lower it onto the ground. I'll probably finish up the brake lines before putting it on the ground though. Once on the ground, engine/gearbox/diff back in to work out fuel lines and wiring.

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IMG_3022.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_3023.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_3024.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_3026.JPG


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