LocostUSA.com

I worked on finishing up the reservoir mounts today. The brake masters are mounted to a bolt-on mount, while the clutch needed to be lower to avoid fouling the bonnet, so it is mounted directly to a weld-on tab. It all looks pretty good since there is nothing else in the way yet! I'm hoping it'll stay clear of the turbo/exhaust stuff.

















I'm still trying to figure out the cooling system. Still researching, but I have some ideas now. It looks like I'll need to buy at least a couple things to make it all work, so I'm putting off building that for now.

Fuel is up next...

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

Cooling system sorted. I got most of the parts yesterday, and will order the overflow tank and figure out a catch bottle too. I was able to find some factory Gates and Dayco hoses, and some silicone bends and connectors from siliconeintakes.com (a Colorado company). I received the bypass parts from Bell Engineering. The only issue is I will need to notch the cross-member to fit it since my engine is sitting so far back in the frame. I think I'm going to so a bolt-on brace solution.















Here's the tank I'm leaning toward:

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

Nice stuff.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Thanks!

I have the boot and scuttle mounted now. I used a dzus that'll be hidden and a couple of rivnuts for the boot. I plan on making a diffuser that will mount to the chassis with a couple more dzuses under the car as well. I used a couple of rivnuts on each side of the scuttle. The front will be anchored by an aluminum tray as well, but it is really solid as is. The nose is next, but I'm waiting for some Amazon Dremel diamond wheels to get here to cut the nose opening (which I am scared of!). That will let me easily position the plates for the dzus fasteners on the underside of the nose. The whole thing should be pretty hidden.





I also received the last piece of the steering puzzle - extenders for the tie rods. Nice work from thelatheman.com in the UK.



I also finished up the brace to make room for the coolant reroute.





And finally, I got an awesome package from the great folks at SVC in the UK (where I bought my Mini's headlights and mirror). My Caterham lights! They look great, and I'm glad John talked me out of just going with the 7" Dietz lights. I have to buy some round to mount them and the turn signals, but I really like the look of it just holding it up with my hand.







Now I need to make a fuel tank out of cardboard and buy the aluminum sheets for the tank, panels and bonnet. I've also been thinking about taking my old beat 914 seats over to a local upholstery shop and seeing what they may charge to make them into what I'd like to save the shipping from Intatrim (as much as I love those!).

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

I have the same bypass kit from bell.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Randy
Just eye-balling the suspension picture, it looks like you need to lower the steering rack, to get in the sweet range for min bump steer. DaveW

The photo is misleading - the tie rods are pretty much level at static ride height. I'm definitely going to do a bit of testing once it is driving to fine tune it though.

After a vacation that was much needed, and some rest, I've started back to work on the Seven. I mounted the nose cone as well as built the headlight brackets. I pretty pleased with how the headlight mounts turned out.

I started with some sheet to cut out the plate for the headlight itself:



Then I used the drill press for the headlight stud to mount through:



Then I used some 2" tubing and cut it at an angle to allow me to use the Caterham turn signal mount:



To finish the headlight/turn signal perch, I welded those two pieces up, and used the mounted belt sander to make it look smooth.





Once those were done, I used 3/4" round to build the stalk out to the perch, with a few cuts to get the angle just right, then fish-mouthed with a 2" hole saw in the drill press:



Then it was a lot of leveling with the nosecone mounted to be sure everything looked right and allowed easy removal of the body pieces.





And the final product:









I need to do a bunch of odds and ends in preparation for welding up the chassis and painting it. Then on to the dreaded electrical!

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

More work the last couple of days after receiving some fun parts. It'll be apparent what they were and the direction of the future motivation of the Seven in the photos. Without further ado:





















More work now required to make the chassis ready for paint. Lots of odds and ends. Then fuel, then brake lines, then electrical, then, then, then... I hope to someday drive this thing! Slow and steady wins the race, or something like that.

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

You're right! At first I am wondering how that rad mount is going to work til 2/3rds way down the pics it turns out to be a charge-air cooler mount.
Awesome

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Thanks Perry!

I'm more and more excited to drive this thing, though it still has a long way to go before I'm at that point. Here are some shots of the turbo as well. It's clocked properly, and it looks like it'll all fit just right under the bonnet, which is one of the reasons I went turbo rather than use the supercharger I had. Now I can sell that as well and buy my MegaSquirt!





Any and all input is very welcome on the build. I looked at the bump steer based on DaveW's comment, and it should be good. I think where the car is sitting with the "dummy shocks" and the bend on the lower a-arm lead to a bit of an illusion. I did go out and remeasure everything to make sure though!

Now I'm working on the seat mounts.

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

It is looking nice Randy. Now after seeing this I have questions. What is the turbo and manifold? Looks nice and compact. I think I’ll be in the market next year for this set up.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Ebay specials - keeping it locost!

That said, they are both tried and true. EM makes the T3 turbo (T3DF), and if you look up cast iron Miata turbo manifold, you'll find the manifold. They take some work to be perfect, but the manifold is strong and fits really well right out of the box. It'll need some relief cuts on the flange to prevent cracking there. The turbo is nice, and has proven reliable, but to prevent boost creep, you have to port the wastegate a bit. Other than that, you can have a nice but cheap set up with very little modification. I was helped with the set up by Lars Sneed, who sells turbo kits for the Miata guys. He turned me onto the turbo. The manifold is used by TheCarPassionChannel on YouTube, who has a great Miata series on numerous topics.

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

That sure is a nice compact turbo/ex manifold fit. Did I miss seeing a waste gate, or is there none. Awaiting how you create the intake air piping to the cooler, I'm sure it will be a work of art.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Based on my experience turbocharging my wife’s 1.6 miata about 20 years ago, I suggest making these cuts and slot the holes shown in the direction shown with a straight cut carbide rotary file. It doesn’t need to be a lot if you keep the boost reasonable. I’d also torque the manifold to just under the minimum spec, smooth the flange under the nuts, toward the slots, clearance the shoulder where the flange meets the tube for more nut clearance, and reduce the nut flanges if necessary. You can make locking tabs to ensure the nuts do not back off from the minimal torque spec using .050” sheet steel (squeeze the tabs up with channel lock pliers to two nut flats) or if there is room for the od, use wedge lock washers:
https://www.mcmaster.com/lock-washers

Use oil cooler rated hose with a fire sleeve for the return, spring loaded T-bolt clamps for the ducting if using thin wall tube, and black oxide 10.9 fasteners to attach the turbo to the manifold with nickel anti-seize and a stainless or copper gasket. An .050 steel heat shield (without holes) helps and the heater hoses should be fire sleeved also. The sleeving makes a big difference in how long the hoses last. If the throttle cable loops around this area, it needs fire sleeve. These are just suggestions, just like the one for dot headlights (though I much prefer e codes myself). When I was doing this, there was nothing online. I had to go to 18 wheeler supply, aircraft, and mcmaster for decent parts.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Excellent suggestions. I had planned all but the nut-side mod to the flange (smoothing it), but it's a great idea. I used to run a twin-charged MINI (R53) and heat-shielding was essential! I also turbocharged my Elise, and it is amazing what a difference wrapping and thermal sleeving can make.

Here is the Elise going together:


And the R53 with a GT28 turbo and Eaton M45 supercharger:

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774