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PostPosted: March 20, 2018, 7:27 pm 
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Thanks, guys. I get it now too!

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PostPosted: April 3, 2018, 11:56 pm 
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Huge grin producing progress today! :D

It's a roller! I made some dummy shocks (which I'll keep as a back up in case I need them in an emergency at the track) to get it rolling. Now I need to get some bravery and cut up the steering rack to start that. Before I tackle that perilous task, I am going to throw the engine and gearbox in place and build the center tunnel, since the steering column mount brackets off of that.

I also tacked in the rear structure that'll hold the fuel tank. I ordered the fiberglass rear from the UK, so I won't need the normal RP1/2, and replaced them with Saturn plans' GRP1 and GRP2, along with modified D13s. Since I don't have the rear tub yet, I'm just going to keep those at a tacked stage rather than fully welding, just in case.

The wheels on the car came with the donor, and I am actually liking them - I was going to grab some Mini-lights, but now I may keep these! Tell me what you guys think. Anyway, here's some photos:

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IMG_1981.JPG


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IMG_1982.JPG


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IMG_1983.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_1985.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_1986.JPG


Any support/input is always welcome!


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PostPosted: April 4, 2018, 6:47 am 
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Lookin' good, Randy! Roller-Day is always a big milestone, looks like you're having a good one.

As to the wheels, it will sort of depend on the color of your car and those gold centers as to how it all looks in the end. They look kinda cool. Not quite Mini-Lite cool, but not bad at all. Keep in mind, however, these cars are called "Locosts" and those wheels are kinda already there and paid for. (Hint, hint...) :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JD "Cheap Wheels" Kemp

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PostPosted: April 4, 2018, 10:31 am 
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Thanks - the locost theme came into my logic for sure. That, and a good mate of mine came over and saw it with the wheels on and said "that even looks Lotus-like." The gold centers would look pretty keen on the BRG planned for the car - see below:

Attachment:
IMG_1987.JPG


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PostPosted: April 4, 2018, 10:40 pm 
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So I dropped the engine in and started to make some plates to mount the engine. A very important question or two for those that have built Miata based cars, especially if it is Haynes-ish.

1: How far back did you mount the engine/gearbox in the chassis?

2: What tilt if any - tilt to match the slight tilt of the diff? Level?

3: Did you offset the engine/gearbox to one side at all? I have a 1.6 and I understand the manifold makes it tight for clearance to the bonnet.

Thanks!! Photos below:

Attachment:
IMG_1988.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_1990.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_1994.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_1997.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_1998.JPG


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PostPosted: April 5, 2018, 3:58 pm 
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I have to admit the roller stage left me with mixed feelings. Felt like a huge accomplishment (and it is), but also disappointing that you can't just hop in, turn the key and drive it away.

As far as engine mounting goes, as far back as possible is always a good idea. Make sure you can reach the gearshift.


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PostPosted: April 5, 2018, 4:32 pm 
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nick47 wrote:
As far as engine mounting goes, as far back as possible is always a good idea. Make sure you can reach the gearshift.


for me, the big question is "Where does the gear shift come out" when doing the engine location (fore/aft). Cause I'm to cheap to want to do some sort of shifter relocation thing.

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PostPosted: April 6, 2018, 4:32 am 
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on mine I sat in the seat and with the engine and gear box chocked to the floor, I rolled the car back and forward until the gear stick was in a comfortable spot and chocked the wheel- engine mounts then made to fit that. I also move the engine over 30mm to the left as we drive on the proper side here in NZ :-) to maximise my foot room. Also there is a big hunk on aluminium PPF frame mount that you can cut off and gain even more room.
john


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PostPosted: April 7, 2018, 10:33 am 
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I'm worried about fitment of the bonnet (which I don't have built yet) over the manifold as well. It seems I can't offset to the left (driver) side without causing issues wth the steering. Anyone else with a 1.6/Haynes combo run into that?

Thanks for the input guys!

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PostPosted: April 7, 2018, 11:28 am 
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RandyBMC wrote:
So I dropped the engine in and started to make some plates to mount the engine. A very important question or two for those that have built Miata based cars, especially if it is Haynes-ish.

1: How far back did you mount the engine/gearbox in the chassis?

2: What tilt if any - tilt to match the slight tilt of the diff? Level?

3: Did you offset the engine/gearbox to one side at all? I have a 1.6 and I understand the manifold makes it tight for clearance to the bonnet.


1. Like others have said......get your seating position set and then move the engine/trans until shifter feels good.
2. Engine is level fwd/aft and left/right.
3. Engine/trans is centered in chassis. The throttle linkage is close to the bonnet but I also have a turbo hanging off the other side that I had to leave room for. Having the nose and scuttle at the beginning of my build helped tremendously in ensuring everything was going to fit under the bonnet. Mainly because I had to heighten both of them ~1.0" to clear then engine.
Lots of pic in my build log, see link below. Feel free to ask for more.

BRG with that choice of wheel color......that was my second choice. A little vinyl and/or plasti-dip and I easily change my mind to that color combo. I'll just leave this pic right here:
Attachment:
roadsportsv.jpg


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PostPosted: April 7, 2018, 9:05 pm 
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some good photos on this link and maybe an idea or two
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11764&hilit=tony+miata

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PostPosted: April 12, 2018, 12:04 pm 
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More progress - and some questions!

I mounted the engine as low as I dare to go, and I'm hoping it'll clear the bonnet. I plan to chop the oil pan before driving it as well, which should get me at least 3.75" of ground clearance.

Attachment:
IMG_2002.JPG


Then I built the center tunnel. Mostly used the Saturn and Gibbs plans. The two tubes with complex angles were about as fun to make as the front frame tubes (sarcasm).

Attachment:
IMG_2003.JPG


On to the question. My diff is tilted upward slightly. If I have to, I could shave the rear of the delrin bushings and slot the forward mounting plate in the chassis to tilt the diff downward. See the photo of the angle - about 3-4 degrees from 90. It sits about 7" from the build table surface with the frame raised for the engine mount (doesn't matter - just use that 7" for reference in comparison to the gearbox).

Attachment:
IMG_2005.JPG


The gearbox can be angled down to within a degree of the diff - 92 or so (see photo). It is 6.5" from the build table. If I do nothing and mount the gearbox and diff as is, the diff is higher than the gearbox and about 1-2 degrees off in the Y-plane. It is even left to right as far as the plane (z-plane?) goes (though obviously offset to the driver side as all Miata stuff is). I know to avoid vibration you should have both of those axes aligned.

Attachment:
IMG_2004.JPG


Will I have a big vibration if the output of the gearbox and the diff are 1-2 degrees off?

Is it OK to have the gearbox lower than the diff (usually it seems OEMs go the other way, with the gearbox higher than the diff)?


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PostPosted: April 12, 2018, 9:41 pm 
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It's not optimal, but you probably won't notice anything.


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PostPosted: April 13, 2018, 4:07 am 
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Found a cool video and article on the topic. It isn't exactly apples to apples since we have an IRS, but the logic holds true regarding angles and drivelines. The video from Spicer is really neat.

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/05/2 ... ion-angle/

Bottom line, I think if I'm within a degree, I'm good. Shortening the driveshaft increases the terminal velocity of the driveline - again reducing the vibration possibility.

Here's another couple photos that show the relationships in the critical axes:

Attachment:
angle1.jpg


Attachment:
angle2.jpg


Attachment:
driveline.jpg


Hope that helps someone else too!


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PostPosted: April 13, 2018, 1:19 pm 
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Randy, with all due respect, the first pic is wrong. The "working" angle of A to B is 1° A(3°) - B(2°) = 1°
In the case of the diff, the angle up should have a sign of "-" (minus) even though the nose is pointed up. Keeping the front to rear tilts all the same sign makes the math soooo much easier. therefore if the nose is higher, the sign is "-" Therefore the working angle of B(2°)-C(3°)= -1°

The cancelled angle is as you describe zero except the math is 1° +(-1°) = 0

The combined (total) working angle is as important as the 2 you show. It is the square root of the sum of the squares or √(angle 1)2+(angle 2)2 where angle 1 is A to B and angle 2 is B to C

Edit: corrected math in 2nd para. from subtraction to addition.

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Last edited by rx7locost on April 13, 2018, 9:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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