LocostUSA.com

Could one of the mods change my title to reflect that the car is now a 442E and is SR20DET powered please

_________________

Done!

I think you can do this yourself by going back to the first post of the thread and editing it.

-dave

_________________
...nowadays people are so intellectually lazy and lethargic that they can't build ANYTHING with their hands. They'll spend hours watching whiny people marooned on an island, but won't spend a second adding anything to the world. -weconway
Visit my [Locost 7 build log]

Thanks Dave, thanks for the tip on being able to change the title of my thread, I'm not used to forums letting you have that degree of freedom over editing

_________________

I plan on running some 6UL's on the car, 15x9 on the rear, 15x8 on the front

_________________

I got a package from Jack at Kinetic last week with my scuttle in it, then today I got some more goodies from him

_________________

Got the FU tubes mounted today and started to fiddle with my goodies from Jack too, I should be getting my copy of Kimini tomarrow so I'm hoping to have the suspension sorted out later this week or next week

_________________

Thanks for the vote of confidence! Unfortunately, suspension design's full of contradiction, compromise, and opinion. It took months to settle on the geometry that I did, and probably just as long on the new car.

Suspension design is like a triangle, where one corner is keeping the tires upright in turns, the second corner is keeping them upright in braking and acceleration, and the third corner keeps scrub to a minimum. Where you want to be in that triangle can drive you nuts. You just have to pick a point and move on, knowing that everyone else has the same issues.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

That's the main reason I've been trying just get it done, the main thing I'm struggling with is what to make my track width, and the fact that my wheels wont even be here till feb 09 so ill have to make some sims from mdf till then, this could get interesting

_________________

Well I Finally have an update to the build, I ordered an SR20det from my friends shop back in December, the first motor arrived but was severely dammaged during shipping, it was sent back. Then a second motor was sent out in mid January the shipping company still hasn't been heard from...... We then called the company we bought from and they very kindly sent out a third motor which arrived today So hopefully this weekend I'll be able to get it positioned and lined up so I can get working again. Once I get the trans tunnel done and the engine mounts in I plan on final welding the frame (whats done so far) then its gonna be time to start working on the scuttle and electrical

_________________

Now theres a familiar sight, noice dude!

_________________
+442E, SR20det, Thunderbird/Markviii IRS with clutch lsd, R1 suspension all around, Mustang II 2" drop spindles, Woodward steering rack

I got some good progress done today. I got the motor in its approximate position in the frame. I am going to have to modify some tubes to get it to sit at the right angle. Hopefully tomarrow I can get it in a more final position after i put the diff back in place to facilitate the line up of my driveline

_________________

The oil pan on the SR20 is pretty conveniently located in front of the engine mounts, this means you can put a cross brace under the motor and use it to beef up your engine mounts. You can check out what I mean here:



Looks like its gonna be a drag race to see who gets done with their NC +442E SR powered locosts first

On my car, I would have liked to put the engine/tranny farter back for better reach of the shifter, unfortunately that would have taken a lot of room away from the footwell area (couldn't have that). Its too bad the bell housing for the SR is so damn big.

_________________
+442E, SR20det, Thunderbird/Markviii IRS with clutch lsd, R1 suspension all around, Mustang II 2" drop spindles, Woodward steering rack

Thanks for the tip, I'm gonna try to get it as far back as i can without compromising too much foot-well space, I'll probably leave just enough for my pedals and feet , my only concern it the turbo's dump pipe but I plan on fixing that when my new tig welder gets here
BTW did you end up cutting into the cross member inder the bellhousing?

_________________

Yep, but I welded another piece under it so it gave enough clearance without taking away from the structure. My motor sits an inch or less below the frame, I'd like to put a skid plate of some kind under the oil pan for sure.

_________________
+442E, SR20det, Thunderbird/Markviii IRS with clutch lsd, R1 suspension all around, Mustang II 2" drop spindles, Woodward steering rack

Well, today was a good yet surprisingly sad day, I got my new TIG machine, a Miller Synchrowave 350LX, but as I was getting ready to wire up a cord for it I was looking at the panel where the jumper tabs go and it did not have 220 volt as an option. I was like huh?!, so I checked my model # and sure enough I had received the wrong machine
so heres my question to any welder gurus on the board: can I use this machine on 220 or will I have to pack everything back up and send it back to miller for an exchange?

_________________