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PostPosted: September 11, 2008, 7:59 am 
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Joined: July 8, 2008, 11:05 am
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
Yep, I got the bigger one that goes between the engine block and the bell housing

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PostPosted: September 11, 2008, 11:52 am 
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Joined: August 6, 2008, 9:40 am
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Location: Greenville/Charlotte NC
Sweetness!

One last thing, if the motor was from an automatic, it may have a different pilot bearing than a manual version. I put a manual tranny on an automatic KA a couple weeks ago and the pilot bearing in the auto KA motor was steel and had a larger bore than the brass manual version. I haven't looked at my SR, but there may be an issue there. Look to make sure the end of the input shaft on the tranny fits nicely on the end of the crank. If the diameter of the end of the shaft and the inside of the end of the crank is different, then they are different pilot bearings.

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PostPosted: September 11, 2008, 1:25 pm 
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Joined: December 5, 2006, 10:42 pm
Posts: 457
Location: Metro Detoit
Normally autos don't have pilot bearings. Since the convertor rides on the flexplate there is no need for a bearing in the crank end. The hole is used to locate the TC so it is centered but there is never a bearing or bushing in there as nothing turns inside the end of the crank in an automatic trans. The hole being too big is probably because there was no pilot bearing and you just needed to install one. Some engines have different cranks for manual and automatic transmissions but I don't think it's all that common for them to have different cranks now. Too much cost in manufacturing to do that these days.

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Build sold to a new loving home. May start another one when I have more time to devote to it. For now I play with my boat, Datsun 240Z, and GS700 motorcycle.


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PostPosted: September 11, 2008, 10:41 pm 
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Location: Greenville/Charlotte NC
Well, all I'm saying about my experience with the KA is that it had some sort of steel bushing or collar or something where the pilot bushing normally goes. It was so stuck in there that even a pilot bushing puller, pb blaster, and heating it couldn't get it out. I had to cut it out with dremel and a cut off wheel to get that [Fatherless Child] out of there.

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PostPosted: September 12, 2008, 6:53 am 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
The auto sr20 does have something similar that must be removed to convert it to a manual. There was an article in project car that mentioned something about it this month.

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PostPosted: September 14, 2008, 5:21 am 
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So is yours an auto? If so, dont even bother with a pilot bushing puller or anything. Dont waste your time. Just get comfortable with a dremel and a cutoff disk. Cut a slit in a spiral pattern (the best you can do since you can't cut it completely perpendicular) then get some vise grips and pinch the cut ends together to get some clearance and then wiggle it out. Its a PITA, but you gotta do it.

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PostPosted: September 14, 2008, 10:40 am 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
Nah, mines is a manual the only reason I know is b/c it came to me with a manual flywheel. I just read a lot of tech articles :)

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PostPosted: September 14, 2008, 10:48 am 
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Location: Greenville/Charlotte NC
even better then :)

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PostPosted: September 14, 2008, 7:36 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
I have hit a snag on my rear end, I traded my way into a set of 95/95 cv's and spindles from a local scrapyard. My issue is one of the cv's does not wan t to come out of the hub, I have tried soaking in penetrant, heat and a 5-ton puller and combos of the three. It just doesnt want to came loose. I may have to just take it to school and put it in the press in the machine shop, but i don't really want to if I can get it out at home. any Ideas and suggestions are welcome.

Other than that I got my engine mount tubes cut and fit but I'm watiting to get my trans and engine mounts before I tack them. I also got my fu tubes cut but I cant figure out exactly how they are supposed to fit in the frame. my thought was they should be square with the uprights on the front end and sit at the end of the "e" tube. any suggestions?

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PostPosted: September 23, 2008, 10:53 pm 
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Location: Greenville/Charlotte NC
Any updates?

Oh, and it looks like the SR20 is a goner, I might have some parts for you if you want to turbo it or tap the block for oil squirters, run a bigger oil pump or whatever.

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PostPosted: September 24, 2008, 6:52 am 
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Not just yet, I'm waiting on the freight company to get my trans to the shop, then I am waiting on some brackets to mount the engine. PM me with the parts you have, I have a very long list of what I need for my engine.

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PostPosted: September 26, 2008, 1:48 am 
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Location: Greenville/Charlotte NC
Possible change of plans, I might also be doing an SR20DE. My brother found a motor for $150 that we can put the DET parts on to make some power. Apparently, the engine is the same except for: pistons, cams, ignition, oil pump, and oil pan. The rods crank and head are just as strong as the DET, and I was planning on forged mahle pistons anyways :)

Essentially I'll be stripping the DE down, drilling and tapping the block for oil squirters, oil lines for the turbo, and probably honing it for new pistons. I'll put the DET oil pump on too. Then I'll put in some new bearings, seals, gaskets, and make sure the head is 100%. I'll probably end up buying an ebay turbo intake and exhaust manifolds to save some weight and to get the package a little bit tighter.

I may still have some parts for sale afterwards, I'll let you know. Then again, I may still go for that sweet sounding RB20, its all still up in the air :)

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PostPosted: October 1, 2008, 6:09 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
I got some more stuff done yesterday and today, I got my CV cups modded to fit my stubs. Then while trying to press out the CV from one of my spindles there was a loud BANG and I broke it :shock: . I also got my motor mounts in, now Im just waiting for the trans, bellhousing and the mount brackets :)
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PostPosted: October 1, 2008, 6:38 pm 
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Joined: August 15, 2005, 10:13 pm
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Location: Charleston, WV
Just rub a little epoxy on it. It'll be good as new. :P

Any idea how you managed to do that?

I got mine out with a 10lb. sledgehammer. :)

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PostPosted: October 1, 2008, 7:16 pm 
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Joined: July 8, 2008, 11:05 am
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
I tried the BFH but no avail so I took it to school and put in a 20-ton press and pop bang zoom it broke, the other ones that I have came out no prob but I'm going to cut this one in half with my band saw and see why it didnt come out :twisted:

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