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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:13 pm 
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Hi everyone, Decided to put my project on the Log, It's only fair since, I've pick up a lot of ideas on the net, so might as well share what I've done so far.

This car will be a Track only car sharing duty between Solo 2 and Time trials. The Chassis is a book size incorporating some of the Ausie Mods.

Power will be by a built Toyota 4 AGE mated to a T50 trans. Suspension wise; inboard shocks upfront with Mustang 2 spindles and Speedway aluminium Hubs. In the back I'm putting a Toyota GTS solid diff with a mumford linkage. Wheel size will be 13*8 in the front and 13*10 in the back.

The fiberglass: Nose and scuttle are from Kinetics and the 11 inch rear wings are from Curtiss unlimited.
I have to admit that it's always fun to start from this
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and get to this
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The famous Ausie mods :wink:
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and a drive shaft loop as required by the rules...

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Right now, I'm taking care of the engine mounts...

Fred


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 12:18 pm 
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Location: Charleston, WV
Looks really good! What's that little boxed area in your tranny tunnel for?

That front end looks really strong! Are you going to add an extra R member too?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 12:55 pm 
chetcpo wrote:
What's that little boxed area in your tranny tunnel for?


drive shaft loop, i'm going to have something similar.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 12:58 pm 
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Location: Charleston, WV
RebelGT wrote:
chetcpo wrote:
What's that little boxed area in your tranny tunnel for?


drive shaft loop, i'm going to have something similar.


Just a safety measure then I assume.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 1:08 pm 
SCCA D/E-Mod rules require a drive shaft hoop.

--JOsh


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 3:49 pm 
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Location: Charleston, WV
CR_Turboguy wrote:
SCCA D/E-Mod rules require a drive shaft hoop.

--JOsh


I wonder if it has to meet any certain specs.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 3:49 pm 
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Location: Lethbridge Alberta
now is it just me or does that look like larger than 1x1 tubing?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 4:08 pm 
chetcpo wrote:
I wonder if it has to meet any certain specs.

This is from the 2006 rules, section 18:

Quote:
3. Driveshaft Hoop - RWD D and E Mod vehicles shall have a
driveshaft hoop capable of preventing the shaft from entering
the driver's compartment or damage any fluid or electrical
lines in the event of joint or shaft breakage. All cars in competition
using open driveshafts must have a retainer loop with
360 degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch minimum thickness and 2
inches wide, or 7/8-inch x 0.065-inch welded steel tubing,
securely mounted and located so as to support and contain
the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure. Vehicles that have a
closed "tunnel" or other such structure which the driveshaft
passes through such as the vehicle's frame, may be considered
for an exemption from the SEB if that structure meets
the criteria stated above.


--JOsh


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 6:36 pm 
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Josh hit it right on the spot: The SCCA Solo 2 rules dictate a drive shaft loop for cars equiped with Racing Slicks. The frame is 16 gauge 1*1, the transmission tunel is 16 gauge 3/4*3/4. The easy solution would have been to put a section in 1*1 tubing, but I would rather have the 1/4 by 2 inch plate as the loop. Now the funny thing is, that part of the trans tunnel will all be panel off with 18 gauge steel sheets; in order to create a backbone, I'm therefore currious how they will check for it at tech. I'll make sure to bring my build book.

I'm not sure if I'll have an additional R tube, but I will have something there. I will also reinforce the bottom of the engine bay with a removable Y tubing section. Just got to get those engine mounts finished before tackling that.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 10:24 pm 
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Got back to the Locost a few weekend ago... Man I got to learn to say NO to my budies asking for some favours :roll:

Ok so After a few trials I set my chassis height at 2.5 inches up front and 3 inches at the rear.

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I had to modify my original suspension bracket to fit my Low ride height :lol:

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I also pick up this dry sump from ebay,
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Should be fun adapting it to the 20 Valve that I pick up a few weeks ago...


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 12:37 am 
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Good to see you back at it! I like the LOW.

And distractions are the devil...ask me how I know...

Keep it up! :D


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 12:39 am 
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Location: Lanark Highlands, ON
Jawfish wrote:
Ok so After a few trials I set my chassis height at 2.5 inches up front and 3 inches at the rear.


???

Height of the frame above pavement or roll center height?

I know Montreal... You need more than 2.5" of ride height! ;)


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:03 am 
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Location: Charleston, WV
Mine is low, but not that low. My oilpan will have about 2 1/2" of clearance from the pavement. The only difficulty I see is locating the steering rack so high will require some head scratching. I look forward to seeing how you do it. :)

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 1:36 am 
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Jeff: Thanks… I’ve pick quite a few ideas from your site. Its one thing to know what you want in a race car, but it’s another thing to actually build it. It’s nice to see how others have solved some of the mysteries of car building for us first timer scratch builders. Yup got to spend time on my site to explain the “what’s” and “whys”.

Darth V8: Ride height. The only pavement this beast is going to see in Montreal is the PMG test center for some Solo 2 events. Imagine a surface of 17 football fields, flat as a pool table, and as much grip as Heartland Park :roll: (don't know if the last one is a good thing) you can actually see one of our course on this pic. http://maps.google.ca/maps?ie=UTF8&oe=U ... 5&t=k&om=1

Chetcpo: The funny thing is that I’m mocking with engine on the table right now…0 ride heights… :lol: With the dry sump I should have 2.25 inch of clearance. In my case it’s the bell housing that’s the lowest at 1.75 inches. Head scratching as been part of this build from day one. I agree that the steering rack will be fun. Right now the head scratching is centered on the drive train alignment. Because my engine is so low in the chassis, the diff sits really high, which will result on a crazy slope for the driveshaft. Right now I’m thinking of having a negative angle, which would kick up the tranny and give something decent.

It’s been a fun project so far. D-mod is quite interesting once you realize that your car will never see any public road unless it’s on a trailer. There plenty of room to think outside the box and try a few things. If it doesn’t work No Problem… You got a grinder and a welder to fix it :twisted:

Fred


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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 9:02 pm 
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Just a quick update, spent some time working on the motor mounts for my car twin sister.... this one is equiped with a 3 tc torque monster...

heres a couple of pics

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I also played with my Lathe
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We're having a few issues with the stock rear Toyota disc... They have a small lip wich interferes with the calipers
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So I tried turning down and for the first try It was ok, but I'll have another go at it before doing my new rotors...
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Today we tacled the Tranny mount... I'll post some pictures when were done..

did I mention I love tools
Fred :lol:


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