LocostUSA.com

Lonnie,
The surge brakes might be OK but since I have to refurbish them and the master, which is considerably shot, I might as well make the better change now. My tow vehicle has the wiring to the rear. I would need to add the rear connector which is no issue. I have a 3rd party controller to put in.

The rust is superficial considering I live in Illinois and the trailer is 38 years old.

Saturday, weather willing, I will be putting this puppy on a diet, slicing its down the middle and taking out some inches.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Chuck, is you want any help on Saturday morning let me know. I have a delay this weekend because the clutch will not arrive in time.

Graham

Graham, Thanks for the offer. I have another friend coming over to lend a helping hand. Not sure if we will be in the garage or out in the driveway. 40 degrees is forecast for Saturday. I don't need the extra help. But if you want to stop by for a bit and see what is up/offer some advice, you are always welcome. I hope to get started around 10 AM. If the Locost is in the driveway, knock on the garage door.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Chuck, this Tilt a Hitch might be the final piece of your puzzle to get your car loaded.

http://www.tiltahitch.com/learn-more-ab ... lt-a-hitch

Graham

Thanks Graham. I only have a bumper hitch at the moment. I plan on someday adding a receiver hitch.

After you left yesterday, I got the beavertail (dovetail) cut, bent and tacked in place. The last 20 inches is now dropped 3 inches. Now I have to reinforce those side rails! After mulling many options over, I now have a plan. I need to get my tires and extend the axle before I know if I need to go thru more design iterations for loading clearance.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Some eye candy, if you like gruel. I moved the frame rails inward around the wheels to keep the overall width to a minimum and still get the car between the wheels. Then gusseted the transition. Still need to box in the gussets. Picked up 2 new wheels and tires today. Going tomorrow to pick up some more bits!

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Another update:

I drove down to RandPCarriages in Seneca Illinois for the trailer parts I am using. I found them on eBay but wanted to look at some of the stuff before pulling the trigger. I picked up the electric brakes, hubs, various lighting products and wiring bits. I can't say enough good things about these guys and gals. We just walked thru their warehouse with my list and said "yes", "yes", "no", etc. as we went. I ended up with more than was on my list.

The basic frame mods are done. The axle was extended 27 inches. I cut the axle and measured it as 2-3/8" OD and 'zactly 2.000" ID. I purchased a 12 inch piece of 2" x .120 wall tube and cut it in two. Then I purchased a piece of 2" Sched 40 pipe. this is 2-3/8" OD and ~ 2.07 ID. I tapered the axle and pipe for welding and drilled 3 radial holes, 2 inches in from the ends with a 3/8 inch drill for rosette welds. The 6 inch pieces of tube were driven into the axle ends with a rawhide mallet. The pipe was then fitted leaving about 1/8" gap to the old axle. This allowed the welding to penetrate the axle, pipe and tube insert all together. I lifted the pipe until it was constrained by the ID/OD mismatch of the pipe and tube. This replicated, to the best of my ability, the pre-bend that was on the original axle.

The rust was wire-wheeled off the frame and primed via brush with Rustoleum heavy rust primer. The leaf springs were taken apart, cleaned and painted, then reassembled using a light amount of silicone grease on the leaf ends. Then I offered up the axle assembly to the chassis and secured it into place. I mounted the new Electric brakes and then the new tires.

I disassembled the surge brake coupler and decided that I will re-engineer that for the new application. I removed the hydraulic parts. If I remove the coupler slide, and rest it on top of the outer case. When welded in place, it should be at the right height for my hitch ball.

I picked up some treated 2x10's the other day for the bed. Next up is the framing for the bed.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

And that probably cost more than everything else combined. I've got to put a new floor down on one of my trailers and the cost of the wood is making me look at adding some more supports and going a steel floor.

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

My design will be 2-2x10's running up each side, leaving the center open. At least for now. I see no sense carrying around the extra weight, or the extra cost. As it is, the 6 treated boards 2"x10"x8 footers were not too bad @ $50. (before an-11% rebate this week at Menard's). To keep the height under control, I am inserting the planks flush with the top of the trailer frame. None will be longer than 44 inches.

Steel is not cheap either. I went to our local scrapper and was hoping to find 1-1/2 X 1/8" wall angle to support the bed rails. He had a pile of scaffolding braces, 1-1/2" square tube just under 4ft long that would work fine for me. Since his business was an industrial one, he did not have a license to sell retail. We did a handshake-plus deal. Not a place you can take advantage of and go scrounging every week. Too bad cause there are a lot of stuff I could get in trouble with (he even had 2 heavy equipment trailers he wanted to get rid of). I picked up 25 pieces (~130#) of tube for 20 bucks. He made better than scrap value and I got a good deal. They needed a bit of de-rusting (of course) but so did the trailer frame . The equivalent steel tube from Speedy Metals would be over $250 plus shipping.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Its looking good Chuck - nice work.

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

Yuze luves weld'n up axles, don'cha Chuck!
Serious, what Andrew said, looking good. Enjoying this
Do you expect it to be ready for the gathering?

_________________
Chris


Build log http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12374
Completed build showcase http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=16865

Guilty on both counts. All of my axle and chassis welding is done with my 120V MIG. The exact same model as Uncle Ron Champion showed in his book. (Oh my!) Although his was setup for 230V input as is std in England. But it is the same output ratings. I did have the thermal cutout trip twice and had to let it cool down. Something about running it at full output for long periods of time I think I may be ready after 20 years for an upgrade to add a cooling fan.

I've been working toward this end since last Sept. It started when I bought the Jimmy tow vehicle. It seems that that has now been sorted out (for the most part). The trailer is the 2nd step and last step in that journey. I applied for title and got plates this week. I thought I might have a problems seeing as how Illinois is one of the toughest states for titling and the paperwork was not quite up to state requirements. The clerk said I should hold onto my old paperwork in case the guys downstate had any issues with the application. So far, so good.

It will be a few weeks before I get it decked and wired for lights etc. and can take it for its maiden test drive with the car on it. Still have to decide whether to tether to the wheels or chassis. It seems that Google gives me about 50/50 responses with valid reasoning both ways. I'm leaning toward tying the wheels down and letting the suspension work. Anybody have strong reasoning why this is a bad idea?

I will be ready for The Gathering one way or the other.

Stay tuned for more updates.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Another day (or two) and more progress is made. The weather was great the last couple of days which was good to get the trailer out to make more room in the garage for cutting, grinding etc. Having the door open for fresh air didn't hurt either. I added full length rails to support the inner edge of the paired 2x10's. These are made of 2 stacked 1-1/2" tubes placed between and welded at each cross member essentially making 2 more 1-1/2 x 3" frame rails. Then added a few cross members where the span is >20 inches. This pretty much ends all the structural work. I'm not sure if the longitudinal section above the axle will be stiff enough. If not, I have a plan.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

In the second photo in the post above, is that some sort of car being used as a storage rack in your garage, the one hugging the lawn mower?

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Trochu Motor League

Yup. That is the most expensive storage rack I have ever owned.

What you see is a welding blanket piled on the top of the car. It was used to protect the vehicle when I was earlier working in close proximity to the Locost.

So, no advice regarding the tie-downs?

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766