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PostPosted: October 15, 2009, 8:37 pm 
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Lumbering Giant
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Not as much of a rotary guy as I'd like to be, but I think a good place for a battery would be in the passenger footwell seeing as there's extra length not needed for pedals.

Speaking of rotary heat, I am planning on putting insulation down the passenger side to ward off exhaust heat. There's a product called Kool Mat that looks pretty good.

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PostPosted: October 15, 2009, 9:44 pm 
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I just welded a tray in the passenger footwell witha plate to keep the passengers feet away from it. I put a plate on the inside of the frame rails and plan on insulating between it and the outside panels.

Ralph


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PostPosted: October 15, 2009, 9:46 pm 
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I put my battery on the floor, just in front of the firewall, in front of the passenger's feet. Nice and low, keeps the batter cables short.

-dave

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PostPosted: October 18, 2009, 10:47 am 
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I had thought about the passenger side floor earlier. I was thinking there was some sort of race rules that said no battery in the passenger compartment. I guess since I do not plan on racing, then that is a moot point. Evidently, inside mounting is not an issue with dparking lot autocross. The battery will be mounted down low, which is a good thing. It may even help balance out some of driver's weight. Since there is plenty of room down in the footwell, I can even use the donor battery. Ok. That decision is made.

I spent another few hours of "quality time" with the locost sorting out the engine wiring. I'm getting there, but it is slow process. Step by step. They say that the fun is in the journey, not the destination. I keep thinking, "I'd like to get to the destination so I can decide for myself" :roll: My time WILL come!

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PostPosted: October 18, 2009, 12:12 pm 
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Sorry...I meant in front of the firewall. That is, in the engine bay.

Putting it behind the firewall would be good use of space, too...there's certainly a lot of leg room down there. I frankly don't see much of a safety issue with doing that. Maybe put in a battery box to contain acid spills/ruptures if you're worried about it. Better yet, just add a second firewall behind the battery. Ol' Rowdy (I think) did something like that to provide a storage bin and foot rest.

-dave

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PostPosted: October 30, 2009, 8:59 pm 
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Chuck, do you have any other pics of your altenator bracket. I am going to put an electric motor on my water pump and need to move the altenator belt away from the water pump.

Ralph

PS your car is looking good.


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PostPosted: October 31, 2009, 8:24 am 
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Ralph, which bracket do you want pics of? The pivot bracket that mounts to the block? Or the upper adjustment bracket?

I can, and probably will, do both but give me a day or so.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: October 31, 2009, 2:51 pm 
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Here are a few shots of the brackets used to relocate the alternator. With the relocation of the alternator, there is more angular contact between the fan belt and the waterpump pulley. This eliminates the need to run a dual belt. But I am using the dual belt pulley on the alternator to allow for the single belt to clear the Crank Angle Sensor. You can also see the odd meandering the upper bracket takes. The upper bracket is made from a couple of brackets removed from the orignial S5 NA engine welded together, flattened and bent as required. Not a very elegant solution, but effective.
Attachment:
fanbelt1.JPG


This is a front view of the upper bracket. The bracket is prevented from rotating by fitting it to match the flat indent in the water pump housing. Adjusting the belt tension does not require loosening the bolt on the block, thus possibly preventing any leaks that might be introduced by disturbing the gasket underneath.
Attachment:
upper bracket1.JPG


This next photo is of the lower mount. It is difficult to see all that is going on with the steering shaft in the way. The bracket itself is made from a piece of angle iron. The pivot is made from the piece cut out of my steering rack. It is a tight fit betweeen the legs of the alternator. The pivot is welded to the topside of the angle. Both sides of the pivot are fillet welded to the angle iron. Two vertical gussets were added to the inside of the angle iron to increase strength. On the back side of the bracket, I welded on a piece of tube behind the front hole for a standoff. The two stud surfaces are at different levels on the block.
Attachment:
lower bracket1.JPG


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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: November 1, 2009, 1:47 pm 
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Beautifully executed!
Now, I will have to go do the same.
Thanks!

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PostPosted: November 6, 2009, 7:47 pm 
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I have been working pretty heavily on the wiring. This has been a long and tortured process. Today, I just couldn't bring myself to work on the wiring one more day. I needed a break, so I switched to finishing off the exhaust system. I already had the header done and the parts for the rest of the exhaust system but just recently got the connection between the two purchased.

I had wanted to use a bolted flange setup but couldn't find the flange parts for 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" OD tube. I really didn't want to make it myself. I probably would have made it if I had the 3/8 steel to make it from in my scrap bin. What I did find, is a clamped connecter at Summit. It is made of stainless steel. You clamp it over the two pipes butted together. I does add a bit of bling factor, not really my intention.

The resonator and the muffler are now welded together as is the turn out. That assembly fits up to the header and the clamp holds the two together. To support the rear, I added a rubber hanger. I welded a rod-style hanger to the rear of the muffler. Then I made a bracket that is bolted to the frame to hang the hanger from.

When I bought the unfinished project, it came with a few misc parts. One of those parts was the perforated heat shield. It fits pretty well. All I had to do was to make new standoff brackets. In the pictures, it is just resting on the muffler, but it will be held on with large worm screw hose clamps.

Really all that is left is the addition of the O2 sensor bung and the paint. I'll wait till the car is running to paint it so I can cure the header paint.

So, what do you think?


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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


Last edited by rx7locost on November 6, 2009, 10:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: November 6, 2009, 9:18 pm 
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Very nice, Chuck! Looks compact and very seven-ish. Keep it up. I look forward to hear you car run. I know sound can be an issue with rotary.

...mark

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PostPosted: November 6, 2009, 9:21 pm 
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Looks good!

-dave

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PostPosted: November 6, 2009, 9:26 pm 
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Very cool, I was just working on my exhaust this week, and have been looking for something to fit my 2.5" tubes as well. Will post pics of mine this weekend. Oh...and I haven't even started the wiring....yikes.

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PostPosted: November 7, 2009, 1:14 am 
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Pretty spiffy exhaust. I like the guard. I just know I'm going to regret not putting one on mine because I've already had my ankle come in contact with muffler fortunately when it wasn't too hot. I'll probably end up putting one on if I get a good burn being as though I'm a slow learner.

I know what you mean about the wiring. Some days trying to figure it out makes the head hurt. Always good to give it a rest and do something that gives a more immediate visual payback.

Ron

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PostPosted: November 7, 2009, 7:35 pm 
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One of the advantages of the rotary engine is that the exhaust exits the RH side of the car virtually eliminating any burns to the (LH drive) driver. Passenger injury could occur......

Any recommendations on exhaust paint? I want a DIY product and do not have access to an oven to
bake it in. I was thinking about the VHT 1500 degree paints either in white or black.. I'm looking for personal experinece here. OH yeah, in a Locost, the coating will have to hold up to road debris kicked up by the front tires.

...and I WILL get back on the wiring.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


Last edited by rx7locost on November 11, 2009, 10:47 am, edited 1 time in total.

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