LocostUSA.com

It should have some type of screw jack built into the rear.
Maybe just a swing down tube in the center of the bumper with a screw base foot?

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Do you have any pics of the bare chassis?

I was looking into building a simple Locost hauler a few years ago that could be towed behind my Cherokee and this seems like it could have been an answer.

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

There are stabilizer supports at the rear and front corners. These were to lift the weight of the trailer and occupants and lever the trailer for camping use. I haven't seen how they work yet.

I have no pics of the chassis yet. As soon as I get the deck/floor off, I'll start posting more pics.

I don't remember if I mentioned yet. I picked this puppy up for 100 bucks. I took the scrap metal over to the recycler's today. I got $72 for the aluminum, stainless. That puts me at a net cost of $28 so far.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Hey Chuck,

Take a look at the Stalker trailer. Nice concept and would be no hill for a stepper like your self to modify what you have to duplicate one. Drive on, drive off. And could be light weight.

http://stalkercars.com/trailers/

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Larry in Seattle

Yeah, Glenn and Scott have one with a contoured fiberglass tilt-top they use to haul the factory racers to events. It's ultimo cool. I'll try to get a pic of it in a couple of weeks at the Nat Tour event.

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Tilt would be nice. Still not sure if it is in my future (wow 5 consecutive 2-letter words!) That Stalker trailer is cooll though. In lieu of my photo frame, this is one very similar to mine except just a bit shorter I think. Mine also has the optional surge brakes. My current plan is to widen the track and move the side rails to the inside of the wheels. Also planning on electric brake conversion.

The photo was borrowed from: http://www.prcforum.com/forum/31-trucks ... lmost.html

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Getting hung up on driveway entrances because of the lack of clearance. There used to be a ton of pics of people having this problem on line. Now the net is full of blogs telling how great life on the road is. Years racing taught me that this necessity is a PITA.

Got it!

Any recommendations? I've been looking for general guidelines for ground clearance and cannot find anything. It is a balance between clearing driveways etc and ease of getting on and off the trailer.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

For cars (not quite the same) the standard for approach angle is 14* for departure it is 16* . I'm not sure how conservative this is but my 7' buck mobile does meet the std. This besides stability is probably why there are so many two axle trailers.

I thought getting hung up on transitions just meant that you needed a more powerful tow vehicle?

If it becomes an issue what about installing some rollers on the bottom? http://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=roll ... pa-1&ymm=0

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

Well, the trailer is stripped down to the metal frame. Tomorrow morning marks 2 weeks of over-my-limit garbage collection. Still have another week to go. I am trying to control how much the guys get so they don't complain too much. The axle is rated for 3500 lbs. The stripped frame including axles/ wheels etc. weighs 524 lbs. Add a 1400-1500 lb Locost and I will still be well under the rated loads. The 37 year old surge brake system is in bad shape. Master cyl, shock absorber, glide blocks (?) all need work. That doesn't include the wheel end. I have checked many websites and nobody has identified the master, only the rebuild kit for it. I think I have it identified as a 1966 (and others) Ford F-250. The cost to bring the entire system is about the same as converting it to electric brakes, so I have decided to switch to electric brakes. Complete backing plates (with shoes) and hubs will run ~$150 for the set.



Now I have to make decisions on what width I want it and where to cut for the least amount of work.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

That frame looks pretty strong. From the photo, it looks like the oxidation is fairly superficial. The brakes? Well, that's another story. Those shoes look like they're "rust-welded" in place.

In days of old, the electric brakes used to have a separate control, at least that's the way an old truck I had was rigged up. When the Chrysler dealer added the factory tow bar to our new minivan in 2012, the kit integrated completely into our wiring package and the trailer brakes are activated automatically whenever you push the brake pedal. Maybe that's the way everyone does it now days? As an electronics type person, you probably won't find it much of a challenge to make things work that way if they don't already.

Cheers

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Chuck have you checked Northern Tool for brake parts? Do you really need brakes with your pickup truck that you have? I've never felt I needed them with my big truck. Russ

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You meet the nicest people in a Locost Se7en.

Have you ever thought of building heavy duty wheelwells over the trailer tires and just driving over them? Russ

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You meet the nicest people in a Locost Se7en.

Russ,

I don't NEED brakes, I'd LIKE brakes. I don't need brakes at all until I get over 3,000 lbs according to my state laws. I believe that I need to meet the requirement of each state I may drive in, not just mine. Some states require brakes on trailers that exceed 40% of the combined weight of the tow vehicle and the trailer. That would limit the trailer to about 2500 lbs without the brakes. As it is, the axles/springs/brakes/wheels/tires will be rated for 3500 lbs. I will be going for a registered weight of 3000 lbs to keep the registration lower, and I don't think I'll need more than that. That 500 lb difference will give me some operating safety margin.

The equivalent Northern tool brake setup is about $250, 100 more than I can get elsewhere. I need to replace the tires. They currently are 10 year old passenger tires. So I'd like to get the best I can now rather than have to re-purchase later if necessary. I hate re-doing something after I've done it.

I looked at driving/rolling/winching over the wheel wells. My friend has a FV trailer that does that. It works for him but hand winching his 750 lb car up the humps takes decidedly more effort and as the front wheels come down the hump, it tries to run you over. my 1400# (and possibly more in the future) would be just that much more effort and I'm not getting any younger. In my case, once over the fender, the side exhaust would still hit the fenders. Considering the trailer's other primary use, I would not fit a 4x8" piece of plywood/ drywall, etc. flat between the fenders.

Got your engine in yet?

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766