LocostUSA.com • View topic - Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Board index » Build Logs » The Builders Log

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]

Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Moderators: a.moore, JackMcCornack

Page 24 of 53

[ 784 posts ]

Go to page Previous 1 ... 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27 ... 53 Next

Print view

Previous topic | Next topic

Author

Message

a.moore

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: June 14, 2011, 1:25 am

Always Moore!

Joined: November 9, 2007, 3:40 pm
Posts: 4075
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

It sounds like a great trip and congrats on no show stopping issues.

Did you do anything to help with wind buffeting and general noise for the 600 miles out and back?

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

Top

davew

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: June 14, 2011, 7:16 am

Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
Posts: 1880
Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan

Chuck
You are a brave man taking that trip with band new build! But sound like you guys had a great time.
1 qt of oil per 500 miles sounds like a lot of oil? I do not know anything about a rotatory motor, but I thought that they would only use a qt per 3,000 miles. Could you use a remote oil tank plumb to the the engine oil pump or a small 2 cycle oil pump that would pump oil based on revs and throttle.
Dave W

Top

rx7locost

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: June 14, 2011, 9:19 am

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 6416
Location: West Chicago,IL

Quote:

You are a brave man taking that trip with band new build!

Yes it was an apprehensive drive, never knowing what might happen. But that's what makes life worth living. I was 85% confident in the car. I was mentally prepared for the worst care scenario and had my towing card in case of catastrophic engine/electrical failure. But I have to ask, just how many miles of driving does it take before you have the bugs worked out and before you start to wear things out? Ahhhhh.... the question for the ages. It would seem that I take the shorter route. I worked very hard on those pre-trip shakedown miles, verifying the car's functions, engine tuning, adjusting front suspension, changing the interior for the long ride, etc. I had only 150 miles on my restored MGA before I took it on a 1,000+ mile trip. Then a year later took it for another 2,000+ mile trip. I had more issues with the 2nd trip than the first. However, by doing things myself, I know the cars intimately and can diagnose/adapt/repair on the side of the road if needed. If I was to always play it safe, then I never would restore or build my own cars.

I forgot to mention that the day before the trip I decided to redesign the RH engine mount. My original design bent during the shakedown runs from the massive torque of the rotary engine. :lol:

I beefed it up and never verified it before the trip. I was fairly confident in the redesigned part. I guess I should go look at it to see how it held up. :shock:

I did take a few preventative measures to combat the wind. First, I wore a Doo Rag on my head to prevent the wind from ripping out any remaining hair and to protect from sunburn. 2nd, I wore a pair of over-the-lens goggles to eliminate the wind from drying out my eyes. 3rd, I wore foam ear plugs to reduce the wind noise. Still, the wind was hitting my left cheek all the way. Not much different than cross country travel in my MGA a few years back. I can highly recommend these 3 things for any sustained driving.

Quote:

Could you use a remote oil tank plumb to the the engine oil pump or a small 2 cycle oil pump that would pump oil based on revs and throttle.

My series of engine (1990 and 1991) had a factory stepper motor controlled oil injector pump, driven directly from the crankshaft but metered by the stepper. The stepper varies the oil depending on load. When I went away from the factory ECU, I lost the capability to drive that motor. Failures of these stepper motors are fairly common and you will never know it until you destroy the engine. A lot of rotor-heads remove the pump and premix. Since I just rebuilt the engine, I figured I didn't want to destroy it too soon. When premixing, you need to use the "max" oil rate, that gets used regardless of power demand. Premixing allows you to use TCW-3 oil, 2-cycle oil formulated to be burned, rather than dirty crank case oil as in the OEM setup. Using the factory setup reportedly builds up carbon deposits and can possibly gum-up all the rotor seals. Once I get the megasquirt dialled in a bit leaner and increase the MPG, then the oil consumption won't be quite so bad. I will still have to carry a bottle of TCW-3 for fillups. It makes the car just that more unique :cheers:

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Top

GonzoRacer

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: June 14, 2011, 9:41 am

We are Slotus!

Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
Posts: 7651
Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)

Yo Chuck-
Maybe you should get some of this:

Attachment:

saab_two_stroke_oil.jpg

It worked for Eric Carlsson, it should work for you...

Sounds like a great road trip. Glad everything went so well.
Take Care-
JDK

You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

Top

rx7locost

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: June 14, 2011, 9:57 am

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 6416
Location: West Chicago,IL

JD, Sounds like a promising product. But based on the photos of the can, I'm pretty sure the can is as old as the dino-oil inside. Unfortunately, it clearly states on the label that it is for use in Saab engines only .

I'm not ready to perform an engine swap just yet. I always wanted one of those odd Saab 96'ers, or a Sonett II.

Last edited by rx7locost on June 21, 2011, 7:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top

rx7locost

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: June 20, 2011, 9:02 am

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 6416
Location: West Chicago,IL

I thought I might add this for anybody who (unwisingly) is duplicating parts of my build. I earlier talked about rebuilding the RH engine mount. Well here is the photographic story.

This is how it was originally planned and implemented. The steel is 1/8" thick and the side walls were ~3/8", I think. :idea:

Attachment:

old.JPG

This is the result several years later, after completing the build and about 100-150 miles of road use. The bend shown was not part of the original design. :oops:

Attachment:

before.JPG

In a rush to get to The Hub, I opted to straighten things out and increase the wall height. The wall now does not have to transition from one side of the mounting plate to the other. In addition, the wall now encompasses the rubber mount at the chassis side. Not shown is a lateral wall underneath just clearing the rubber mount. After the ~1500 mile round trip, the motor mount is just as straight as it was the day we left. :wink:

Attachment:

after.JPG

You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

Top

rx7locost

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: July 11, 2011, 8:06 pm

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 6416
Location: West Chicago,IL

After The Gathering, I reported that I had broken my speedo cable. Well last week I got around to purchasing the universal inner cable from my local Advanced Auto. I had to shorten it to my length and I had to swap out the trans-end fitting as it was different than the std 0.104”sq end they provided. No problem, I just heated the old cable end and removed the broken innards. Then I drilled out the crimped barrel to .125”. All said and done, I epoxied (J.B. Weld) the new cable into the old fitting. While re-assembling the cable to the tranny, I decided to reroute the cable for a higher radius, hoping that this would give a longer life. OK it all worked out and everything worked. So I packed up my tools and said to myself “well done”.

Yesterday I went out for a bit more tuning to get the mileage up. It was running around 13.5 AFR at cruise; a bit too rich for cruising. About ½ hour into the effort, the speedo cable stopped working. It turns out that my re-routed cable had drooped and subsequently dragged along the ground. It wore thru the outer shroud and broke the inner cable too. This time I only got ~10 miles on the cable.

This brings me back to the direction I had thought of earlier, that of a right angle adapter. In addition to this, I’d like to incorporate the 10% reduction of the cable. It is not necessary, but if I can get the two together, I won’t need to buy the 22 tooth gear from Mazda. Well, I have done some research and found I have a problem. I have looked online and not found anybody who makes a right angle ratio adapter with the required 22mm-1.5 threaded input and output. I haven’t even found any 1:1 angle drives available from the speedo houses with the right metric threaded ends. Unless I have parts in hand, it is difficult to determine what OEM part(s) might work. What I have found is that many earlier (1980ish) Toyotas MAY have used the rt angle adapter. Corollas, Coronas, Celicas, Supras, Tercel’s, Land cruisers and pickups, from 1972 thru 1984 all use the same aftermarket Speedo cable so the 22mm-1.5 thread should be there. Many Toy’s used a right angle adapter but some do not. But I don’t know which ones do or don’t? So I’m focused on finding a 1:1 right angle adapter for one of these vehicles. Can anybody point me in the right direction? Or any direction for that matter?

Top

oldejack

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: July 11, 2011, 9:00 pm

Joined: April 12, 2010, 5:40 pm
Posts: 2081
Location: san francisco bay area

For early MR2's. .. http://stephenmason.com/cars/mr2speedo.html
So if it should look like this;

Attachment:

mr2_assemblyout.jpg

then the Toyota part numbers are ;

A)33403-19406 Gear sub-assembly, speedometer
B)83798-17010 Key, speedometer adapter
C)33404-17010 Sleeve sub-assembly
D)83770-17020 Adaptor assembly, speedometer
E)83798-20020 Key, speedometer adapter
F)88261-20070 Sensor, speed cruise

Attachment:

mr2_assemblyparts.jpg

The referenced web page has pretty decent rebuild instructions as well.

You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

Last edited by oldejack on July 11, 2011, 9:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top

oldejack

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: July 11, 2011, 9:20 pm

Joined: April 12, 2010, 5:40 pm
Posts: 2081
Location: san francisco bay area

This may help too http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q.html

Top

oldejack

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: July 11, 2011, 9:40 pm

Joined: April 12, 2010, 5:40 pm
Posts: 2081
Location: san francisco bay area

pulled this from a dealership database with changing the last two digits to a "10" instead of a "20" http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/products/TOYOTA/Celica/ADAPTER-ASSY--SPEEDOMETER-CABLE/2366535/8377017010.html

Quote:

TOYOTA Camry 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED SEDAN, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED SEDAN, LE 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED SEDAN, STANDARD 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED WAGON, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED WAGON, LE 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SEDAN, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SEDAN, LE 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SEDAN, STANDARD 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED WAGON, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2500CC DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED SEDAN, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2500CC DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED SEDAN, LE 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2500CC DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED WAGON, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2500CC DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED WAGON, LE 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2500CC DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SEDAN, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Camry 2500CC DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SEDAN, LE 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI TURBO, MANUAL , 5-SPEED LIFTBACK, TURBO 4WD 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI TURBO, MANUAL , 5-SPEED LIFTBACK, TURBO ALL-TRAC 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI TURBO, MANUAL LIFTBACK, TURBO 4WD 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI TURBO, MANUAL LIFTBACK, TURBO ALL-TRAC 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED COUPE, GT 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED COUPE, GTS 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED COUPE, ST 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED GT 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED LIFTBACK, GT 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED COUPE, GT 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED COUPE, GTS 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED COUPE, ST 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED GT 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED LIFTBACK, GT 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Celica 2000CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED LIFTBACK, GTS 1988, 1989, 1990
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED SEDAN, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED SEDAN, LE 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED WAGON, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 3-SPEED SEDAN, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 3-SPEED SEDAN, STANDARD 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 3-SPEED WAGON, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SEDAN, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SEDAN, LE 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SEDAN, STANDARD 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED WAGON, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED WAGON, SR-5,GLX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED SEDAN, LE 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC, AUTOMATIC 3-SPEED SEDAN, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC, AUTOMATIC 3-SPEED WAGON, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SEDAN, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SEDAN, LE 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA Corolla 1600CC 16-VALVE DOHC, MANUAL , 5-SPEED WAGON, DX 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
TOYOTA MR2 1600CC DOHC EFI SUPER CHARGER, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED T-BAR ROOF, SUPER CHARGER 1988, 1989
TOYOTA MR2 1600CC DOHC EFI SUPER CHARGER, MANUAL , 5-SPEED T-BAR ROOF, SUPER CHARGER 1988, 1989
TOYOTA MR2 1600CC DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED COUPE, GT 1988, 1989
TOYOTA MR2 1600CC DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED T-BAR ROOF, GT 1988, 1989
TOYOTA MR2 1600CC DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED COUPE, GT 1988, 1989
TOYOTA MR2 1600CC DOHC EFI, MANUAL , 5-SPEED T-BAR ROOF, GT 1988, 1989

Top

rx7locost

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: July 12, 2011, 8:25 am

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 6416
Location: West Chicago,IL

Thanks Jack. You've done a lot of work. I had found that info. What I need is something similar to Item "D". From what I gather, somwhere in the early to mid 80's Toyota changed to this part. This part seems to differ from the previous design I am looking for in that it is secured to A,B &C via an o-ring and bolt rather than the M22-1.5 nut that I need, Similar to the end of the speedo cable.

I think the angle adapter number(s) that might work are:

83770-22030
83770-22031
83770-22100 (45 deg angle?)
or maybe 83770-26020

That ToyoDIY site you pointed me to is awesome. I had not found it before. If I had a definita P/N, I could fine the yr/model number it was used on. However I'm still tring to find photos of these parts to visually verify the screw-on ends. This is the part in my RX7 trans that is the equivalent of the Toyota parts A B and C, and the adapter must screw to.

Attachment:

mazda.JPG

You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

Top

oldejack

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: July 12, 2011, 10:45 am

Joined: April 12, 2010, 5:40 pm
Posts: 2081
Location: san francisco bay area

"Lot of work. .." Shucks naawwww, notes from old ideas mostly. Chemo brain means I have to write everything down nowadays or it never happened.
So it seems that the C to D connection is a press fit O ring seal, does yours pull apart? I'm thinking that the A,B C lengths are longer so they'll work for the FWD trans gearshaft locations?
Sounds like a wrecking yard visit is in order. .. 90's Landcruisers used one as well iirc.

Oh yeah, you can search the toyodiy database by vehicle too. .. I'd have to play with it to remember how though.

Top

natec

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: July 25, 2011, 1:40 am

Joined: March 7, 2009, 6:39 am
Posts: 35

Hi Chuck,

I saw in one of your earlier posts, you were considering using the charcoal canister...and I'm wondering if you ever did. I'm setting up the gas lines on my rx7 build now and wondering if I can ditch that entire part of the system. How did yours end up? I went back through you posts here and couldn't find it, if its already here, a link would be great.

Thanks,
-nate

_________________
-nate
www.clowar.com

My RX-7 Locost Build:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7458

Top

Radial

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: July 25, 2011, 5:03 am

Joined: July 9, 2011, 10:50 pm
Posts: 31
Location: Western Australia

Posting a reply because I've recently been looking into the whole charcoal canister issue. I need to have one for legal resons for registration, but afterwards I plan to remove simply because its ugly.

Charcoal canisters usually have one port from the gas tank, and an opening to atmosphere at the bottom. This allows the fuel tank to vent(air and vapours out), typically through a one way/check valve/roll over valve on the fuel tank itself that allows vapours to exit only. Fuel tank caps tend to have another one way valve/check valve that allows the fuel tank to breathe(air in). This serves to equalize any pressure difference within the fuel tank, and the charcoal canister captures all the fuel vapours, which are then breathed in by the engine intake later on.

Not required imho, they are ugly, and take up space. Easy enough to remove, just block the port(s) coming from the engine intake, and put a breather on the line running to the fuel tank. BUT! If removing the charcoal canister, I would really make sure that the line your venting has a one way/no return/check valve/rollover valve installed. I don't like the idea of having the fuel tank completely open to atmosphere, a valve gives a little more protection/isolation...

You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
Building a 4A-GE powered Locost:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12543

Top

rx7locost

Post subject: Re: Chuck's RX7 / CMC w/IRS challenge

Posted: August 1, 2011, 2:47 pm

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 6416
Location: West Chicago,IL

Nate and Radial. Sorry for the delayed response.

I have no real crankcase ventilation scheme at the moment. Unlike a normal piston engines, there is no pumping action caused by pitons moving up and down in the crankcase (oil pan). Some minimal pressure is created in the crankcase by blowby around the eccentric seals. So at least one means of venting to the air must be provided. That pressure is relatively low since leaks mostly go to other chambers rather than the oil pan. My blowby is low with the rebuilt engine but there is some. In my setup, I eliminated the hose barb in the oil filler neck when I rerouted it to clear my intake air tube. I have a short length of hose connected to the ventilation port in the center iron. It goes to nothing..... I had some moisure buildup under the filler cap during my early days (short start-stop runs as I was setting up the Megasquirt, but none since the long haul. I have had no issues with the oil turning to sludge either. In spite of this alleged success, this winter, I do plan to reinstall the filler neck port and take it to the intake tube, ahead of the TB with no pcv valve. The air filter should provide a minimal pressure drop that should vent out the oil pan. I'll provide a small filter for the center-iron port. From what I read, many RX7'ers remove all related plumbing and just plug one or the other hose ports with no issues.

Thanks for suggesting the rollover check-valve. I do have a rollover valve in my gas tank vent line which normally allows full ventilation to the atmosphere. Not very ecologically minded but no different than my garden tractor I guess, or my old MGA for that matter.

BTW, ~2,000 miles and zero engine oil consumption, still full! I do premix the gas with TC-W3 2-cycle oil at ~128 to 1.

Chuck

Top

Page 24 of 53

[ 784 posts ]

Go to page Previous 1 ... 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27 ... 53 Next

Board index » Build Logs » The Builders Log

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 30 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to: