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PostPosted: April 13, 2012, 6:50 pm 
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The lemans flip caps are available with a locking, standard cap for about $150 on Ebay:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1905848912 ... si=y&cbt=y

40 ga is typical for windows.

Consider stainless snaps to secure the top that screw or rivet into the panel and don't stick out much.

Typical mounting is to hook a plastic edge sewn into the top's leading edge into a groove across the top of the windscreen, with snaps pulling everything tight at the rear over the separate, two hoop frame. Tow secure the top to the bows, a 3 inch wide strip of top material with a strip of hooks sewn into one side and loops sewn into the other, is sewn in the middle to the top at the center of each bow.

I posted a topic about weatherproofing methods a few years ago, full of photos with various examples. I believe the title is WW 2 or similar.


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Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
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LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 14, 2012, 3:16 am 
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Chuck

Fantastic build man. I am truly amazed at your skill and patience. As a Former Chicagian I would have been on someone desk during your liscense debacle. However it is typical of Illinois Government in general. Iam starting to aquire some stuff for my build and will definately like to use some of your ideas. Inspiring. :cheers:



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PostPosted: April 14, 2012, 11:33 am 
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Thanks Bob.

I really don't think Illinois is much different than other states. It takes time to do things out of the norm. Getting in their face doesn't accomplish much except to further alienate them from your cause. It is sometimes best to just play dumb and let the wheels move as slowly as they do. Yeah, it takes some intestinal fortitude to keep quiet sometimes. Thankfully, that is all behind me now.

Stop by now and again and say hi!

Have you thought about starting a build log yet?

Maitaxxxxx, Thanks for the input. I have already got the plastic marine fuel cap so that is what I'll be using. I've decided it will fit on the rear panel. That location should work out well for me. I read somewhere that the Aston and Lemans style caps are not allowed on the track anymore. Not that I'll be there soon, but you may never know. I looked for your post on weatherproffing and couldn't find it. Any further direction would be appreciated. Oh, Thanks for the input on the window material thickness.

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PostPosted: April 14, 2012, 12:47 pm 
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I expect the issue with the original style caps is that they can easily pop open. I believe that is why they went to the cap within a cap design, which I think is standard on the factory five "cobra" cars.

Look at the LOG pics half way down to see what I think is a factory option tonneau, with adjustable straps:

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=6451&start=30

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 18, 2012, 3:47 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
Thanks Bob.

I really don't think Illinois is much different than other states. It takes time to do things out of the norm. Getting in their face doesn't accomplish much except to further alienate them from your cause. It is sometimes best to just play dumb and let the wheels move as slowly as they do. Yeah, it takes some intestinal fortitude to keep quiet sometimes. Thankfully, that is all behind me now.

Stop by now and again and say hi!

Have you thought about starting a build log yet?



Chuck
Yeah I understand about patience and playing dumb. Mimic those that upset you and you seem to get beeter results.

No I have not started a thread yet, Still accumulating stuff. ie...Tools parts and donor. On my retiremnt from Army I have to watch and wait for good deals. Iam still to far away from SSN money, so its watch and buy when cheap.

I wish I could stop by, But living in Arizona would make it difficult, But if ever back there, Ill send ya pm when Ill be in town. 164th area right by Ohare AP

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PostPosted: April 19, 2012, 11:08 am 
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Going into Chicago in a few minutes to pick up the new tank. I'll still have some work to do but am excited to see what she looks like. Still don't know what the final cost is.

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PostPosted: April 19, 2012, 4:20 pm 
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Oh my goodness! What a beautiful job. I'm a proud Papa. Now I have to get going and build some baffles and drain to the lower section, and some entry/exit/vent ports to the top.


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PostPosted: April 19, 2012, 4:22 pm 
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Yo Chuck-
That looks really, really good! Nicely done... Whoever did it!
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: April 19, 2012, 10:47 pm 
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Chuck who did it, what was final on it?

Looks huge, How many gallons is it?

Very nice piece that for sure.


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PostPosted: April 20, 2012, 6:48 am 
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Chuck
When you add a couple baffles you might want to think about adding hinges to the lower sections of the baffles in the fuel pick-up area.
Dave W


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PostPosted: April 20, 2012, 8:39 am 
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Wiz,

All I can say is a friend of a friend (wink- wink) had it made by a friend of his........It was originally to be a gratis thing but my friend (friend #1, I know this gets hard to follow) needed to keep things above board for business reasons, which means no freebies to me. Between the two of them, they agreed that I would pay for the worker's time. So all in all, it came to $125.

It was all water cut and some automatically welded process. the welding was done on the outside of the seams and ground to a nice radius. The company that actually built it normally builds NEMA electrical boxes. They are not, to my knowledge, a general sheet metal fab house. All totaled, it will hold 12 gallons. (2790 cubic inches by Mechanical Desktop's caclulations). It is built from 16ga HRS.

Dave, I am thinking about the hinges. Not sure I will need them. I'm thinking about 2 baffles, how do I word this, running up 2/3 the height of the tank. Then notch the corners at the lower level about 1/2 on a side. I need to get some movement action of the fuel because I am premixing my oil for the rotary. I need to keep this mixed evenly. I was also thinking about putting a horizontal 1-1/2" wide flange on the top edge of the baffles to redirect any "waves" back to the same compartment they started in.

So I have a question to all you fuel gurus. I have been OK with keeping the inside of the tank bare steel. That is what my original tank is. HOWEVER, with the feds increasing our fuel to E15, I wonder if any alternate form of protection would be required. have any of the "regular" tank coatings been successfully tested with E85? And if I slush coat the tank, what size should I make the weep holes in the baffle?

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Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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PostPosted: April 20, 2012, 12:03 pm 
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Old British cars have a major problem with ethanol because their tanks aren't sealed and the stuff soaks up water causing rust. This a larger problem when they are stored for long periods. If you don't live somewhere you can buy the stuff without ethanol I think some sort of tank lining would be a good idea


Last edited by vroom on April 21, 2012, 6:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: April 20, 2012, 1:21 pm 
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I have had "old british cars" with original fuel tanks run E10 for more than 20 years with no tank problems (leaks). Those tanks started out being 30 and 40 years old before I had them. No station in my area has had 100% gas for over 20 years, it is just not available. I'm not saying it is not a problem, just that I have not seen it. My new tank is heavier steel (16ga) than any Brit tank I have had, so if I can get 20+ years of life out of it, I'm happy. I'm concerned that I might see deteriorization of current coatings designed for E10 start to fail and clog injectors and foul pumps and filters when the USA switches to E15, and eventually maybe E20.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: April 20, 2012, 5:22 pm 
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Chuck
If you do not plan to Auot-X then you are probably OK with standard type baffles. I ended up putting in a sump in my gas tank. Just make smaller cut outs in the bottom lower sections of the baffle corners. I thought I was solving the splash back during refueling with larger 1" x 45* reliefs in the four corners of the baffles. I had to run at least a 1/2 tank to prevent any problems with long swipers. Do not some of the RX-7s racers use a remote oil tank to feed the intake? Dave W


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PostPosted: April 21, 2012, 9:45 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
. . . <SNIP> . . .

That is what my original tank is. HOWEVER, with the feds increasing our fuel to E15, I wonder if any alternate form of protection would be required. have any of the "regular" tank coatings been successfully tested with E85?

. . . <SNIP> . . .


You've asked an interesting question I'd like to know the answer to as well. Immediately, one thinks of galvanizing, but I'm sure that's not the best answer being very old school and the zinc in it has to be very reactive chemically too.

There are several SAE guys in these forums. I'll bet there are recommendations in the SAE literature. Maybe you can pose the question somewhere they'll see it? Also, I'll bet there is an "Ethanol Association" and they certainly should have an answer to the question.

Will you please post the answer here if you find out?

Cheers,

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