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Cool!, you will be my first sucker, I mean student. I don't know anything about Toughbooks. Do they provide the +5V on the serial port? I guess if you have the communication programs, it should work out. The module just shows up as a com port on the BT host computer (not the one you have it plugged into). I'll leave that stuff up to you to figure out. Keep us informed.

That brings up a good question, since I won't be running it from the MS unit, but from a computer. I can run the MS off the COM1 port and the BT off COM5... hummmm Sounds like fun!!

This will give me something to do while I wait for our steel order to arrive!!

Can you forward me the instruction set you found that works with it?

Cheers!

KS

PM sent.

Hey Botbasher, have you gotten the module yet? I posted the instructions on another forum too and so far 1 guy has had some problems comunicating during setup. The second guy has progressed thru the setup and linked to the module via bluetooth but did not talk to the MS. He thinks he may have accidentally pressed the reset button and gone back to factory defaults i.e. 9600 baud.

I had the same problem during my setup.

Just following up.

Just an update on the non-active status of my post build. I am starting the design of my top and doors. This was over in the http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=13288 thread.

In addition, I am planning on building a larger fuel tank before Spring. The 5 gallions just won't get me far enough. So while I'm at it, I thought I'd get to a more formal fuel filler/cap. Since I have a separate tank vent, all I need is the filler. I was thinking about the Aston and Monza style flip covers. But they are restricted from track use for some reason, not that I'll be on a real track anytime soon. Probably due to them being unsecure in case of an altercation here or there might open them. I have opted for a low cost marine

Made by Seadog, it is made of Nylon and has a flip-out handle to aid in unscrewing the cap. It is non-vented, but I don't need that in my application. It connects to a 1-1/2" hose. it should fit on either the side panel, the rear panel or on the rear deck. I'm not sure where just yet. Before I do something wrong, has anybody got experience with this style filler?





[cross posted over here viewtopic.php?f=27&t=12753&start=0 for maximum response]

Wow.... no comments on the fuel filler? I must be losing my board cred!

I have now got my bimini hinges, alloy tubing and Sunbrella Surlast material for the top. I've even got the topcoated thread. Now waiting for some sewing machine needles for this fabric and thread. I still have to get some clear vinyl. Any recommendations as to what gauge vinyl to use?

I plan on using the same Surlast material to finally make my rear tonneau. I'm trying to find an ingenious way to secure the tonneau and the top(when installed) without making too much of a kluge. For the tonneau, I was thinking of glueing velcro along the panel and sewing the other piece to the tonneau. The tonneau would wrap around the edge and attach. For the top, I was thinking about running an extra tube in a sewn sleeve wrapping around the back deck just give it some clean form that could be latched down in some way not yet figger'd out

Graham, you out there? Have you got any detailed photos of how you did this area on your car?

Chuck,

I've got lots of experience with those fillers, but no on cars ... and mine were bronze. They are fine.

Uhhh, Chuck, you ARE gonna get the lime green filler cap, right???

It's been a while since I tried using "glued on" velcro bits, but my experience with them wasn't all that great. All too often the adhesive wasn't as strong as the velcro, and the first -OK, maybe the third- time I tried to "un-velcro" something, I pulled the back piece off of whatever it was glued to.

There were several things, such as the airbox around my SU carbs, that were held on with velcro. I always wound up using small rivets to attach the velcro to whatever. I never had the velcro itself fail!

JD "Velcro Never Sleeps" Kemp

Well I got the red one 'cuz it says "gas" molded in it. The green one says "oil". Which would have made a little sense since I have to mix 1 oz oil with every gallon of gas (Rotary pre-mix). Maybe I made the wrong choice........ NOT!

Yeah, my experience with the Velcro stuff has been similar. If I go that route, I'll pick up the non-adhesive version and then add some 3M VHB adhesive that they hold semi trailer walls on with. Good stuff!!

Warren, thanks for the confirmation.

Thanks for the tip on the filler neck. Online for less than $10.00 plus shipping.

Wow, no progress reports since Feb! My how time fly's!

Spring came early here in the Chicago area. Yard and flower bed cleanup took priority along with the timing belt ordeal on my PT Cruiser. I've already mowed 2x and it time for another mowing. I can't remember this early of a Spring.

My reservations are made for The Gathering so I have to get the upgrades fininshed by then. I have made a little progress on the Locost. I now have a gas tank shape that I think I can work with. I made a model out of luan ply. Good thing too. I had to knock off about an inch on the front face in order to fit it thru the twists and turns of the roll bar in order to get it in place. Now I can get some steel and start cutting/welding. Unfortunately I will have to modify the RX7 pump/gauge sending unit in order to accomodate the narrow and angled sump. Oh well..... The good part is there will be about a 3 to 4 inch deep recess that will serve as a small trunk; a place to keep a few bits and tools (and my premix oil) rather than under my legs. I hope to make some good progress rather quickly (for me anyway) now.

I need to get some 1-1/2" Dia steel tube to make a tank inlet. Then I'll need to get a few inches of fuel hose to connect it to my filler. Baby steps..... but a lot of them!

Anybody need a shortened CMC steel 5 gallon fuel tank?

I have drawn up the tank and sent it out for a quote. I have a friend who has a friend etc. I doubt that it will be cost effective to be outsourced though. I'm one cheap SOB!

The tank uses the space as best I can, which makes the tank a bit odd shaped. The model doesn't show the pump/fuel sender access port, the vent, the drain, the baffles nor the fuel inlet. The good news is I'll be going from 5 gallons to just under 12 gallons. I won't have to stop every hour or so while driving.

More to come as I progress.

Yo Chuck-
Interesting design... I understand you were trying to make the most of the shape you have to work with, but that is one complex shape! I'd be willing to bet that fabrication of that tank by an outside shop is gonna be pricey!!! Keep us posted, and I'll keep my fingers crossed for you, but... Well, you know... (I wish you good luck with making it yourself, in other words.)

Other than that, have a good weekend, Sir!

The plot thickens. I was told that if I got a call from anybody concerning this, that it is a "water tank" for a boat! It seems there are at least 3 people besides me that are in this "friend" network. I somehow feel that the next person in the chain of friends just may be Kevin Bacon.

JD, I checked and could remove the upper left trapezoidal shape and still get ~10.5 gallons. that would get me about 200 miles hrs before running out, comfortably 2-1/2hrs at 70mph. That would make the fabrication a bit easier. It can't get any simpler beyond that, I need the 2 different widths and the parallelogram shaped back end to work around the IRS.

Dear "Mr. Bacon"-
I hope that you are able to get that water tank *wink, wink* built to your satisfaction. It will make driving your boat *wink, wink, nudge, nudge* so much more pleasant.