My 1st tank, I built a sump. It worked well. Unfortunately, I needed the extra space that the higher floor took up, for more gallons. I don't plan on competetive autocross, maybe a few fun days. So the baffles are a required evil. I'll limit the size of the corner notches.
RX'7's normally inject crank oil in the combustion chamber. One popular mod is, as you say, setup a dedicated oil tank to feed the injector pump. This way you can use oil designed to be in the combustion chamber (i.e. 2-cycle oil). In my case, the injector pump was controlled by a stepper motor driven from the factory ECU. My Megasquirt did not accomodate the stepper motor drive. As a result, I am left to premixing 1 oz per gallon TC-W3 oil with my gas. I'd like for that to disperse evenly during fillup.
Hinges are out of the question. If I ever decide to coat the inside of the tank, ...... you get the rest
Can you comment on this sketch?
baffles.JPG [ 70.47 KiB | Viewed 752 times ]
Lonnie, I have spent a lot of time and done some fairly deep google searches just to find a lot of gray info about the "sins" and benefits of E10 and higher. Most of it from people with no real experience or technical background. They just repeat what they have heard, not scientific enough for me. Or our government proponents of E15 who don't consider that cars older than, say, 15 years old are on our roads, let alone our home-built cars with fuel systems that replicate cars that old. The rest is from scare-mongrels or shills with a snake-oil solution to your problems, just send $19.95 plus S&H.
What I have not seen is anybody that can definitively say thet E10 (E15 or higher) is worse or better than the old 100% gas as far as rusting of steel tanks goes. I am no stranger to old-school gasoline with ounces of water resting at the bottom of tanks/carb bowls, etc. One "fix" back then was to just add ethanol (Heet) to absorb the water in the tank and burn it off. Can't really do that today. In the early 70's, I used to check the underground tanks at the gas station daily for water using some "paste" spread on the end of the 10' long dip-stick. But that was before any Ethanol was blended in our gas. From what I can tell, the primary problems with Ethanol is it attacks aluminum, rubber and plastic parts, polyester resin in fiberglass tanks and too much water can cause phase separation. The Ethanol itself (I think) is fairly benign to steel, not so much toward Zinc which is in galvanizing. When phase separation occurs, it lowers the octane of the remaining gas, and the ethanol/water part will burn lean, if at all. I still can't find anyone saying today's fuel is better or worse than previous. I have seen a lot of rusted out gas tanks in the 60's, 70's and 80's.
I think I'll take the easy (locost) way out and just leave it uncoated. This way if it rusts out in 20 years, I'll have a fuel tank to replace. The alternative is that if any coating I put in it fails, I'll have a tank, pump, filter, injectors, regulator, fuel lines, .... to replace. I call it a life-cycle engineering decision. Oh wait, 20 years from now I'll be how old? I probably will not be replacing the tank - ever. Never mind!