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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:27 am 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Mark, I'd have to say that I've postponed the "quiet" decision until later. Right now, I am working on the header itself. Up to, and slightly past, the bend in the chassis. I am really considering the Heartthrob similar to this:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Item ... 0000175012

I'm a little concerned that the inner diameter might be a bit too constricting but I am willing to give it a try. What is the worst thing that could happen? Either poor performance, or too loud. Both of which will be remedied by replacing the muffler with something more $$. With the rotary engines, we in the US, have it a bit better than the British builders. The exhaust exits the RH side of the car away from the driver. On most 4cylinder cars, the exhoust exits the LH side next to the driver's ears.

Glad the nose fits.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:33 pm
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
This is how I ran mine.
Image
I hope the bends aren't to much.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 3:34 pm 
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Looking good RW. I don't think the turns will hurt. Some headers are really bent to get the runners equal length. I've never run across anything that says "for every 45 degree bend, increase the length by ....". Everything I have read is based on the centerline length. Of course, I've never done this before.

My headers will drop low and exit straight out the side one on top of the other, with minimum bending. I haven't got the diagonal in the frame yet so I plan to work that around the header afterwards.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Check out my rotary build log: click here


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:18 pm 
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A bit more progress made this last week. I had ordered the exhaust materials from Racing Beat. Exhaust flange, 2-180 deg bends, a 4 ft straight length of 2” and one of 2-1/2” tube 0.120” wall. All of it is steel tube. I ordered just enough u-bends to make the header with little leftover for mistakes.

The design was done in 2d CAD. A cut list was made for each turn. The rear rotor’s primary tube was made in 4 pieces. The front rotor primary was made in 5 pieces. Each piece was eyeballed and marked using a full scale CAD-made compass as shown below. The tube fits between 2 of the radius lines on the compass. The pieces were cut by hand using a hand grinder with a cutoff wheel. Both ends of each piece were filed, and chamfered for welding. That is a lot of prep all done by hand. Each length of the primary tubes was tack welded then fully welded. The welds were ground flush (or as close as humanly possible).

The collector was made in the same manner using 6 pieces. The straight tube was cut at 12-1/2 degrees. Also 2 pieces of 12-1/2 degree radius were used along with a couple of short lengths of tube. The amount of work to make the 2-into-1 collector is not worth the cost savings. I didn’t know that RB offered the collector so went it alone. Next time…….buy the piece and move forward.

The header primaries were welded to the collector. It was very difficult holding all these pieces in free space trying to get the angles just right before I tack-welded parts together. Not shown is the next length of 2-1/2inch .120 wall tube that will run from the collector to the muffler, when I get to that.

There is a lot of work in making the header as many of you already know. Cutting multiple curves to the right angle and getting all of the pieces to end up where you want them, is less than an exact science. There is a lot of fitting, grinding, welding more grinding etc. I’m glad that part of the build is over, but I am very happy with the results.

Next up....the intake log manifold build.


Attachments:
File comment: Made in CAD and printed at full scale.
compass.JPG
compass.JPG [ 40.86 KiB | Viewed 3520 times ]
header 2.JPG
header 2.JPG [ 63.83 KiB | Viewed 3545 times ]
header side view.JPG
header side view.JPG [ 126.5 KiB | Viewed 3519 times ]
header business end.JPG
header business end.JPG [ 57.11 KiB | Viewed 3510 times ]

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Check out my rotary build log: click here
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:58 pm 
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
That looks good Chuck. Have you decided how you are going to run the diagonal brace.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 9:30 am 
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Thanks. I have not decided yet on the brace. I still have several major braces to fit including this side diagonal brace. I don't think it will be too bad. Even if I have to add another vertical and run 2 diagonals in this space, at .83Lbs/foot, it should only add slightly above 1 pound vs. the traditional single diagonal. I could live with that.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Check out my rotary build log: click here


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 5:08 pm 
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Location: Indiana
Good job Chuck. I hope you continue to stay about 6 months ahead of my build and show me how it's done! :)

Mark

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“Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead.”- Locofinn

SCCA D Modified autocross special. Scratch-Build completed 2013.
South Bend Region SCCA http://www.sbrscca.org/

Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 6:17 pm 
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Hi

I have had a scan through your thread, I like what you are doing, keep up the good work.
I have fitted a rotary engine (13BT) into my Sylva Stylus with great results. Similar to a Locost chassis but with a full body.

I have always had rotary engines so putting one in a kit car was the next logical step for. I'm based in England and I dont know of any other road legal completed Turboo rotary kit cars so its nice to be unique.

Here is a brief spec and some pictures for your inspiration.

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/to ... mid=135839



Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:41 pm 
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Quote:
Next up....the intake log manifold build.


OK.... I lied. I went in the other direction and worked on the other end of the car, cleaning up a few unfinished items. My goal is to get to the point of starting the car sometime this year and maybe actually get it to move up and down the driveway. So I finished the parking brake system. The cables are shortened and fit. The assy is now installed and functional. Well at least it pulls the cables and the cams on the rear calipers move. But I currently do not have any pads in the calipers.

I have made and welded the rear flex-brakeline tabs to the frame. I purchased a 25 ft coil of 3/16" brake tube and am planning the path thru the driveshaft tunnel. Since all the tube nuts were rusted and pretty beat, I had to special order the 10mm x 1.0 tube nuts. I also bought 5/16" tubing I will be using for the fuel feed and return. I want to know where everything will be in the tunnel before I commit to locations.

The last couple of days were spent designing and modding the CMC (book) fuel tank. It is now shortened to about 21 inches in length. I added a 2-1/2" sump for the std RX-7 pump / pickup. I calculate it will hold about 5.5 gallons. I'd like a bit more since it will be a road-legal car but the price was right. I added a hole in the top for the RX7 pump assy to drop in and mount. I also bent the gauge float to work with the new tank. It will read the level in the main tank, not the sump. I added a fitting for draining the tank at the bottom of the sump. I still need to pressure test it and provide some means of mounting. It is designed to sit on the IRS crossmember about 5 inches forward of the rear of the car providing a little "crunch" room just in case. The sump fits just forward of the cross member and drops down from there.

Maybe I'll work more on the intake log next. Or maybe I'll start on the building the scuttle....... oh so many targets!

No pictures right now.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Check out my rotary build log: click here


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 7:26 pm 
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I’ve been working on the Locost but not updating the log. Here are photos of the fuel tank, installed parking brake mechanism, gas tank and the rear brake line mounts. The tank is mounted and in place. Tabs were welded to the tank and it bolts to the frame via tabs there too. It is easy to remove and replace and it eliminates the need for a separate grounding wire.

More to follow later……

Chuck


Attachments:
gas tank.JPG
gas tank.JPG [ 154.36 KiB | Viewed 2920 times ]
rear brake line mount.JPG
rear brake line mount.JPG [ 48.98 KiB | Viewed 2912 times ]
parking brake installed.JPG
parking brake installed.JPG [ 52.15 KiB | Viewed 2916 times ]
brake cable splice.JPG
brake cable splice.JPG [ 45.54 KiB | Viewed 2911 times ]

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Check out my rotary build log: click here
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 7:31 pm 
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Looking good.

Are those factory RX7 e-brake cables? They look like a much nicer solution than the Miata ones.

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 8:15 pm 
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They started life as standard a 2nd gen RX7 system from my donor. The 2 outer sleeves were shortened. The the inner cables were also shortened and reterminated. The single cable to the handbrake lever was shortened mid cable and spliced. The 90 deg turn (black bracket) was custom made. Other than that, they are factory cables :D

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Check out my rotary build log: click here


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 9:25 pm 
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Ok so now the new stuff.

I have mounted the Civic radiator with fan. I chose to install the fan behind the radiator. I thought that the turbulent airflow might help the oil cooler better than if it was pushed from the front. Who knows? It is all theoretical until testing is done. I went crazy with the top mount. Hopefully it will fit under the nose. Speaking of which, I have ordered the nose from Jack and expect it in about a week’s time. This will allow for some final layout.

Attachment:
radiator 'n fan.JPG
radiator 'n fan.JPG [ 57.17 KiB | Viewed 2892 times ]


The front brake line mounts are in. The flex line is standard RX-7 fare. I found that the middle mount slides on the rubber hose. I could relocate where I wanted it on the lower control arm.

Attachment:
front brake line.JPG
front brake line.JPG [ 139.69 KiB | Viewed 2896 times ]


Also, I have added the headlight mounts to the existing shock mounts. I really like the Unistrut material but the paint sure stinks when it gets hot. Again, I hope it is in the right location. If not….. Then more cutting and welding is in order. This seems to be my favorite pastime. Tack things together and test fit. Then cut and modify it later.

I rebuilt the front upper control arms. Now they take on a bit of a bend to fit the angled upright mounts. The KPI of the 2nd gen RX7 is about 13 degrees. So for the best freedom of motion, the rod end should be 13 degrees off straight, or in other words, perpendicular to the stud it mounts to.

Attachment:
headlight mount.JPG
headlight mount.JPG [ 157.51 KiB | Viewed 2901 times ]


I also finalized my thoughts on the scuttle. I am building one from scratch. Firewall and dash are screwed to the scuttle frame, which is in turn, bolted to the main frame aka “the book” The outer skin will be removable to allow for wiring access. Also, the dash itself will be removable without removing the outer skin. I think it is the best of both worlds. The frame, firewall and dash are made. The dash is cut for the donor’s instruments, switches and turn signal lever. The instrument cluster was modified to flatten the face so it mounts to the steel dash cleanly. I am awaiting the nose so I can extend the corner radii to the firewall and dash.

I removed the temporary bracket holding the steering wheel and now bolted the steering wheel to the scuttle frame. The front mount of the tilt bracket is now bolted to the frame. Previously it was tack welded. This allows for full removal of the shaft assembly from the car if it is ever needed.

Attachment:
scuttle frame.JPG
scuttle frame.JPG [ 65.11 KiB | Viewed 2888 times ]


Attachment:
dash.JPG
dash.JPG [ 63.51 KiB | Viewed 2891 times ]


‘That’s all the updates for now.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Check out my rotary build log: click here


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 10:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:33 pm
Posts: 134
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Things a looking good Chuck. I wish I would have thought about putting the front brake lines to the bottom a-arm. I was going to put a tab on my top a-arm but didn't like the way it looked so I just left it off. I was glad to see the stock brake lines were long enough to to work. I have the same radiator and fan with the stock oil cooler behind it and it does seem to cool the oil cooler. I haven't drove it yet but have let it run until everything got good and hot to check for leaks. :cheers:


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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 8:25 pm 
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I received the nose from Kinetic last Thursday. It is a thing of beauty. As is the norm for my build, 2 steps forward, one step back. It seems that the lower edge of the nose interfered with my radiator mounts. I cut the mount away and rebuilt it to just barely clear the nose. This raised the radiator and so the upper mount had to be rebuilt too. Anyway it is all done now. I have about 1/32” clearance (if that) on the bottom and about the same to the radiator cap. It is tight! The biggest part of the problem was created when I decided to put the fan behind the radiator pushing the radiator forward into an ever-narrowing nose. Note to self: next build put the fan in front of the radiator. Say hello to Froggy….

Attachment:
front view.JPG
front view.JPG [ 49.12 KiB | Viewed 2739 times ]


I used Kinetic’s Dzus kit in 3 places. I added a slight bend at the bottom to allow for the chassis side aluminum to make the full bend around the top frame member. I used a single Dzus at the bottom.

Attachment:
upper dzus mount.JPG
upper dzus mount.JPG [ 56.52 KiB | Viewed 2739 times ]
Attachment:
bottom dzus.JPG
bottom dzus.JPG [ 46.69 KiB | Viewed 2731 times ]



I started the building of the scuttle shell. The scuttle is 4 main pieces: the framework, firewall, dash and outer shell. You have seen the first 3 pieces in earlier posts. The shell is a series of parts welded together forming the Magic. The design allows for the dash to be removed separately, the outer shell to be removed separately, and the whole kit-& caboodle to be removed as one. It is heavy; being all of 16 ga steel, but it will provide plenty of support for the windshield and some grab-rails. I won’t have to be worried that someone will bend things as we go through the twisties. When I get the shell completed, hopefully by the weekend's end, I will get some photos.
Attachment:
scuttle structure.JPG
scuttle structure.JPG [ 52.92 KiB | Viewed 1657 times ]

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Check out my rotary build log: click here


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