LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:34 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 342 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 23  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:56 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:24 pm
Posts: 166
Location: Winter Park / Orlando
Well, Jack has mentioned a few times that I need to begin a build page, so this is my first attempt...please bear with me!

I met Tom, a 30 year-old mechanical wizard, earlier this year who lives a few miles away from me (Winter Park/Orlando) and he was building a Super 7 from scratch in hi garage. (I've always loved British sports cars and since the early 1970s, I have owned numerous MGAs, Triumphs, Healeys and a classic Mini.) About 6 weeks ago, a mutual friend asked me if I wanted to buy a frame that Tom had welded together for a friend. Tom's friend had the frame for several years and had purchased a "donor" Miata, but decided did not really have time to build it, so I bought the frame along with a Miata 1.6 motor, tranny, rear suspension, front spindles, wiring harness, etc. for $900.

Tom is not only a mechanical wiz, he's an outstanding welder (along with his dad, Bob, who recently finished his GSXR1000 powered Super 7!) Fortunately for me, Tom has agreed to help me throughout the build!

I named the Super 7 project "Kate" after Kate Middleton because of her British heritage, she's cute, sexy and fun! My wife makes jokes about me having an affair with Kate...and she's OK with it.

At 6'5" tall, I was initially worried about being able to fit in the car. For years I've squeezed into my 3 Bugeye Sprites and my Mini Cooper, but I'm not as spry as I was 30 years ago, so we began by cutting the "book" frame and added 6" to the cockpit area, so I guess it's now a book + 6?
Attachment:
MyFrameExtension.jpg
MyFrameExtension.jpg [ 85.94 KiB | Viewed 4169 times ]


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:12 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 9:10 pm
Posts: 2281
Location: Oregon, usually
My name is Jack McCornack and I approve this message. Because I'm a moderator, and I can. :D

Welcome aboard, and you got a screamin' deal on chassis and donor!


PS: There's a bear with you? That happens in Oregon now and then, but I figured folks were pretty safe in Winter Haven.

_________________
Locost builder and adventurer, and owner/operator of http://www.kineticvehicles.com


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:20 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:24 pm
Posts: 166
Location: Winter Park / Orlando
You're funny, Jack...and damn helpful as well!!

While Tom is unbelievable at welding and figuring the complicated things out, I'm best at tearing things apart, cleaning, painting, putting things back together, installing and sourcing all the parts. I really want everything to look as good as possible, especially when using parts from a 19 year-old donor car, so I spend time on many simple chores. Here's a before & after example of the front spindles:
Attachment:
SpindleBefore.jpg
SpindleBefore.jpg [ 812.95 KiB | Viewed 4141 times ]

Attachment:
SpindleAfter.jpg
SpindleAfter.jpg [ 238.79 KiB | Viewed 4141 times ]

I decided I didn't need drilled & slotted rotors, so I stuck with a new set a stock rotors from Auto Zone and added some EBC "Greenstuff" brake pads all around. I also replaced all the numerous cracked dust boots on the front suspension tie rod ends.

While beginning to work on the front suspension, we also hung the motor and tranny to locate the position for the motor mounts.
Attachment:
LocatingEngine&Tranny.jpg
LocatingEngine&Tranny.jpg [ 399.22 KiB | Viewed 4141 times ]

With the extra 6" in the cockpit, we decided to cut an upper cross-member to bring everything as far back as practical so it will be possible to reach the gearshift while strapped into the Spec Miata seats (by UltraShield) with a safety harness on!
Attachment:
MovingEverythingBack.jpg
MovingEverythingBack.jpg [ 374.96 KiB | Viewed 4141 times ]


We're beginning to add some metal to strengthen the 1x1 we cut out. (After this photo, Tom welded in cross-bracing to the motor mounts.)
Attachment:
StrenghtingCrossMember.jpg
StrenghtingCrossMember.jpg [ 362.51 KiB | Viewed 4141 times ]



Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:50 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 12:49 pm
Posts: 1022
Location: Raleigh-Durham NC
thegarman wrote:
I named the Super 7 project "Kate" after Kate Middleton because of her British heritage, she's cute, sexy and fun! My wife makes jokes about me having an affair with Kate...and she's OK with it.


My G/F is joking about my car too. "I bet you're gonna go spend time with Lola (under breath) that b****h!" and "Yeah, what Lola wants, Lola really does get!".

And I'm referring to the rear fenders on my Lola-style car as "Kardashians" although they just as easily could be called "Pippas". Just saying.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:15 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 12:07 am
Posts: 178
Location: Minneapolis, MN
geek49203 wrote:
thegarman wrote:
And I'm referring to the rear fenders on my Lola-style car as "Kardashians" although they just as easily could be called "Pippas". Just saying.



Careful, a "Kardashian" is also used to refer to a unit of time consisting of 72 days.

_________________
Fingers of butter and fists of ham.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:33 am 
Offline
We are Slotus!
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:29 am
Posts: 4913
Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Yo, Garman!
Welcome to the asylum! Good to see another Florida builder on here... Although, being in Tallahassee, I think I'm actually a part of "LA". (As in "Lower Alabama" :roll: )

The frame looks good, as does the "clean up" work on the used parts. That's a great start to a build, and will help out later in ease of assembly and the good looks of the finished car. Good on ya!

Keep us posted on your progress, and keep the pictures coming! Oh, about that one pic- Are you building a right-hand drive car? That's cool on the "authenticity" scale, but I'd think it would be tough to make left turns in ORL traffic... :wink:

Take Care, and Good Luck!
JD Kemp

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:55 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:36 pm
Posts: 1468
Location: meadview arizona
a cautionary note about the 6" longer cockpit, if you put the windsheld at the stock location you will find that the wind buffeting will make the car undrivable over 50mph.

it would be less if you didn't have a windshield at all,

36" rule rules o.k. ( 36" from top of the windshield to your head with a 20 deg. rake on the windshield)
Attachment:
locost 1.jpg
locost 1.jpg [ 91.98 KiB | Viewed 4078 times ]


this car was built as a book dimention car and a driver maximum hight of 6ft. 6ins. with size 16 boots, by moving the pedal box forward.

and yes, it's right hand drive

_________________
drag racers lament

oh to go down to the strip again where the blacktop meets the sky
all i ask is a small block and some fuel to make her fly
with slicks a smokin pushrods pokin next round i'll get a bye

she's up on song the shift was strong in the finals to boot
it's back to the pits and take it to bits and don't forget the shute
the final round was good and sound so come on give me the loot


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 8:20 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:24 pm
Posts: 166
Location: Winter Park / Orlando
Thanks JD! Yep...it's going to be RHD. I rebuilt a Bugeye Sprite in 1980 and converted it from LHD to RHD (an easy job), then drove it for 10 years. I loved the quirkiness of RHD and know of ALL the pitfalls (drive thru windows, throwing change on toll roads, etc.) The most fun is when people pull up beside you and say, "Hey Buddy...you're on the wrong side!" The perfect answer is, "No. I'm on the right side!"

The 36" rule is new to me, John, but duly noted! Dang...just another thing to sort out. I figured there'd be at least a few guys 6'4" or taller that has figured out how to be comfortable in the 7! A size 16 shoe?!?! Wow...

Today I put a new input shaft cover seal and gasket on and made a mistake I haven't made in years...I used a large torque wrench set for #15 of torque and busted off a grade 8 bolt. Fortunately, I took of the cover and used vise grips to get the broken end out! I installed all new grade 8 bolts and re-sealed the gasket, lubed the clutch fork & throw-out bearing points and bada bing, the tranny is back on the engine!

Here's the front suspension components I bought from Jack McCornack (plus a front shock):
Attachment:
'sFrontSuspensionComponets.jpg
'sFrontSuspensionComponets.jpg [ 237.91 KiB | Viewed 4033 times ]

Tom's dad, Bob, carefully measuring everything:
Attachment:
BobMeasuring.jpg
BobMeasuring.jpg [ 380.11 KiB | Viewed 4033 times ]

Mock-up:
Attachment:
MockUp.jpg
MockUp.jpg [ 392.6 KiB | Viewed 4033 times ]

Tom did a beautiful job tig welding:
Attachment:
TigWelds.jpg
TigWelds.jpg [ 302.16 KiB | Viewed 4033 times ]

Attachment:
TomIsAPerfectionist.jpg
TomIsAPerfectionist.jpg [ 260.49 KiB | Viewed 4033 times ]


So now we need to refit everything, locate and weld on the shock brackets, install the GSXR1000 shocks and we'll finally be on four wheels. (It's downhill from there, right guys??

On deck: Weld in the motor mount supports and re-hang the motor/tranny, build the transmission/driveshaft tunnel, install the new "Sand Rail" steering rack and locate the steering column & steering wheel.

I had a panic attack today! I took my new 17" Ultrashield "Spec Miata" seats to the shop and see that there is almost NO space build the driveshaft tunnel. I mistakenly used the 17" measurment as the OD, but it's actually the ID!!
Attachment:
Seats.jpg
Seats.jpg [ 497.01 KiB | Viewed 4033 times ]

Attachment:
LHDseat.jpg
LHDseat.jpg [ 305.07 KiB | Viewed 4033 times ]

Attachment:
RHDseat.jpg
RHDseat.jpg [ 193.02 KiB | Viewed 4033 times ]


Tom said we'd make it work, but I'm bummed that I missed the old carpenter's rule of "Measure Twice, Cut Once." In this case, measure once and buy the right size seats. More on that coming up...



Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:32 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2012 3:29 pm
Posts: 366
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
Well, I can't feel your pain in the height department, as I'm (tall for a 7) 5' 11''. I also came accross my chasiss already made, (for $250) and it was a 442, which seemed perfect from what I've read, but its too much! I found its my driving style that's the issue. I didn't notice it till being in one of these cars, but I don't use my ankles when using the pedals I use my knees for all the movement, and keep my ankles fixed.

After placing my seat in the comfortable position I found I have, what seems to be about a foot behind my seat!

I guess what I'm getting at is don't listen to any "standards" about length/width, and factor in your driving style to the mix. Maybe "adding 6" may not have been the definitive cure. Maybe it was. Not saying you didn't factor in all this, but sometimes sitting in the frame making "vroom vroom" noises does have its advantages! :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 3:22 pm 
Offline
Toyotaphobe
User avatar

Joined: Sat Apr 05, 2008 2:25 am
Posts: 3045
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
toyotus wrote:
Well, I can't feel your pain in the height department, as I'm (tall for a 7) 5' 11''. I also came accross my chasiss already made, (for $250) and it was a 442, which seemed perfect from what I've read, but its too much! I found its my driving style that's the issue. I didn't notice it till being in one of these cars, but I don't use my ankles when using the pedals I use my knees for all the movement, and keep my ankles fixed.

After placing my seat in the comfortable position I found I have, what seems to be about a foot behind my seat!

I guess what I'm getting at is don't listen to any "standards" about length/width, and factor in your driving style to the mix. Maybe "adding 6" may not have been the definitive cure. Maybe it was. Not saying you didn't factor in all this, but sometimes sitting in the frame making "vroom vroom" noises does have its advantages! :mrgreen:



Sounds like you need to relocate your pedals or make them adjustable.

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 4:10 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2012 3:29 pm
Posts: 366
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
I'm just gonna need a seat slider, and possibly telescoping column? Lol


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 7:04 pm 
Online
User avatar

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 3:34 pm
Posts: 230
Location: Alberta
thegarman wrote:

I had a panic attack today! I took my new 17" Ultrashield "Spec Miata" seats to the shop and see that there is almost NO space build the driveshaft tunnel.


I think the easiest/best solution would be to take the seats back and get new ones. Keep in mind for the tunnel you'll need about 3.5" for the driveshaft, about 1.5", .75" on either side for movement/engine mount flex (assuming soft mounts are being used), of clear space, and 2" for structural components, assuming your tunnel is made out of 1"x1" tube. This equates to a total space of 7". Pretty tough to get 7", from "almost no space", without some serious creative thinking or surgery to your frame. If "almost no space" means you only have 5" to work with, yea, you can probably find a way, none will likely be as easy as just taking the seats back though.

_________________
Trochu Motor League


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:53 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:36 pm
Posts: 1468
Location: meadview arizona
you could make the tunnel from steel sheet with no frame inside.

_________________
drag racers lament

oh to go down to the strip again where the blacktop meets the sky
all i ask is a small block and some fuel to make her fly
with slicks a smokin pushrods pokin next round i'll get a bye

she's up on song the shift was strong in the finals to boot
it's back to the pits and take it to bits and don't forget the shute
the final round was good and sound so come on give me the loot


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 10:18 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 12:49 pm
Posts: 1022
Location: Raleigh-Durham NC
john hennessy wrote:
you could make the tunnel from steel sheet with no frame inside.


Or at least no tubes on the side, and a tube or two on top connected w/ "thick" sheet metal or something?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 11:39 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 24, 2008 2:13 pm
Posts: 1531
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
I'm pretty close to positive a couple of fellows have used 17" OD Kirkey seats successfully. If that's you in the photo up above pretending to hold a steering wheel, you look like a slender fellow and not "laterally challenged" like most of us. You should be able to fit, and 17" is just about the minimum accepted (438mm) width at the hips in the auto industry. You can always measure yourself, add 1/2" for clothing and seat belts and make you seats that wide. It might be as little as 400mm (~15-3/4")? One caveat: women have wider hips in case there is a Mrs. or SO involved.

Here are a couple of other ideas that may help some assuming if you go to smaller 17" OD seats:

1) Do a custom driveshaft with a smaller diameter than stock, and make the tunnel just big enough to slide the U-joints through;

2) Build the tunnel out of thinner materials with greater wall thickness and rectangular shape, not square.

With the seat change, drive shaft change and the smaller tunnel materials you might get an additional 6" (2x2" + 1" + 1") to work with, which probably is enough. Also, if your seats don't have sides (i.e. bench style), you may be able to take out an additional 3/8-1/2" for each seat versus the ones you have, so maybe even pick up 7" overall.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 342 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 23  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Baidu [Spider], phongshader and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY