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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 25, 2006, 4:15 pm 
WOOHOO!!! The engine fits! and boy is it sparkly clean too!

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Gotta notch one of the engine bay members to clear the sump. Decided that I really dont want to mess with redoing the oil pan at this time, so I'll make it work as is.
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The view from the driver's seat!
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Its an engine on a stick!


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PostPosted: February 26, 2006, 12:00 am 
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Joined: September 21, 2005, 6:09 pm
Posts: 265
Location: Laveen, AZ
You going to race that bad boy when it's drivable?

-Steve


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PostPosted: February 27, 2006, 12:38 pm 
I dont know if I'll race it. Probably will do some autocrossing with it, but I dont see hitting PIR in it or anything.

This weekend I got the engine bolted in. Made some engine mounts and welded plate to the chassis for them. Turned out pretty good although I think I might redo the mounts to raise the engine up 1/2" or so to help with oil pan clearance.


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PostPosted: February 28, 2006, 1:12 am 
Looking good. That motor almost looks brand new. Good catch!


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PostPosted: February 28, 2006, 1:23 am 
From what I can tell, the motor has been rebuilt recently. Not sure if its got any performance goodies in it, but I guess I'll find out soon enough.


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PostPosted: March 1, 2006, 11:55 am 
I got to looking on summit racing and think I have decided to go with a set of Wilwood pedals on the car. It would be a lot lighter and better engineered than what I've been trying to piece together for pedals. This way I can also go with the dual brake master cylinders for redundancy and tuning purposes.

What is the general preference as far as floor mount or hanging mount pedals? what works best in these cars? I'm thinking floor mount with remote reservoirs to prevent fluid drainback issues. the floor mount seems like it'd be a lighter setup and would work nicely with the low profile of these cars.

Also.. the guys over on az240sx.org are telling me I should turbo this engine...


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PostPosted: March 2, 2006, 3:57 pm 
I recieved 6 of these in the mail yesterday for the rear suspension:

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They are 5/8" poly-bushed rod ends. I didnt feel comfortable using heims on the outer ends of the rear suspension, so I came across these things and think they should do the job without the potential for catastrophic failure under load. The suspension for each rear wheel will have 3 of these. Two on the bottom of the bearing upright and one on the top to allow full adjustability of rear toe and camber.


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PostPosted: March 2, 2006, 9:30 pm 
Ok.. so I've found a nice Garrett T3 turbocharger for free, and have already picked up an intercooler out of a Nissan Skyline with blowoff valve and misc piping that I can modify. I have also been offered a turbo manifold for this engine for a very reasonable price.

My question to you guys is ... Am I crazy?


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PostPosted: March 2, 2006, 9:33 pm 
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Joined: August 15, 2005, 10:13 pm
Posts: 7043
Location: Charleston, WV
heck no! especially if you are getting all this stuff for free. What do you have in mind for fuel management?


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PostPosted: March 2, 2006, 9:44 pm 
Larger injectors and a boost referenced FPR mostly to start off with using the stock ECU. Once its going I can determine if it needs something a little more exotic. Also thinking water injection would probably be a good idea too if I want to go real crazy with the boost, as the compression is relatively high on this motor.

The turbo manifold is the only part I'd have to buy.. A local guy has offered me one, new for $175. Injectors would be another purchase, but apprently, the SR20det 370cc injectors drop right in and are relatively cheap. I'd have to spend another 100-200 on the fuel pressure regulator and misc parts. Shouldnt add more than $700 to the cost of the build to nearly double the hp output.

Would definitely make for one hell of a quick locost.


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PostPosted: March 2, 2006, 9:52 pm 
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PostPosted: March 4, 2006, 2:52 am 
Quote:
My question to you guys is ... Am I crazy?


I work out of a shop that specializes in 240's. We dont bother building KA motors but rather swap them out for the sr20det's. The sr's are a much better motor to build up then the KA for several reasons but I wont go into that.

I think you may be taking advice from the wrong people as to what you should do with that motor. Most of the people who build up KA motors for thier 240's are kids that dont have the money for an sr swap. The KA motor was never designed for performance and was only offered in the states as a replacement engine for the sr because of smog.

The picture of the turbo manifold is china made and cracks/breaks very often. The fit is poor and they usually leak and come loose because the flanges are not machined.

Yes, you will get more hp if you put a turbo, but any motor with a turbo will make more power.

Do I think your crazy? Yes, I do think your crazy for listening to internet kids that dont really know what they are talking about or are just trying to sell you some crappy parts. Most of the time, when people buy stuff, they sware by it because they need to feel that thier purchase was justified and they made the right choice.

Dont take advice from the people that have only owned or tried just one setup, or the guys selling you the parts because thier opinions will always be biased towards what they sell or what they have.


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PostPosted: March 4, 2006, 3:36 am 
AlexPfeiffer wrote:
Quote:
My question to you guys is ... Am I crazy?


I work out of a shop that specializes in 240's. We dont bother building KA motors but rather swap them out for the sr20det's. The sr's are a much better motor to build up then the KA for several reasons but I wont go into that.

I think you may be taking advice from the wrong people as to what you should do with that motor. Most of the people who build up KA motors for thier 240's are kids that dont have the money for an sr swap. The KA motor was never designed for performance and was only offered in the states as a replacement engine for the sr because of smog.

The picture of the turbo manifold is china made and cracks/breaks very often. The fit is poor and they usually leak and come loose because the flanges are not machined.

Yes, you will get more hp if you put a turbo, but any motor with a turbo will make more power.

Do I think your crazy? Yes, I do think your crazy for listening to internet kids that dont really know what they are talking about or are just trying to sell you some crappy parts. Most of the time, when people buy stuff, they sware by it because they need to feel that thier purchase was justified and they made the right choice.

Dont take advice from the people that have only owned or tried just one setup, or the guys selling you the parts because thier opinions will always be biased towards what they sell or what they have.


Thanks for the words & advice.. I am not going this route strictly because someone has told me that it is the best way to do it. I am going this way because it is the cheapest way at this time. An SR20det would be great, but it is well outside of my budget. This engine is a good one and will be fine to get the car going and play around with. The turbo parts I have acquired for next to nothing, so why not? I'm not about to go drop the coin on an SR20det because you say the KA isnt worth building.. that'd be silly.

The manifold I posted the photos of is NOT the manifold I've been offered. It was the closest I could find. After taking measurements, I'd have to build my own manifold anyway, as theres just not enough room for a top or bottom side manifold, so the point is moot.

Thanks for the 2c...


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PostPosted: March 5, 2006, 12:36 am 
Got all the suspension brackets fabricated today and welded up the rear suspension mounts. Its all ready to start fabbing the rear A-arms and uprights!

Here are half of the A-arm U brackets. I made these out of 2x4"x0.120" wall box steel. Made a jig for my drill press so that all the holes would be identical on them. They turned out pretty good I think for an afternoons worth of work:
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here are the rear suspension mounts welded up to the chassis. I found out that the lower part of my differential subframe was skewed 1/4" over, so I corrected that when I welded in the lower A-arm brackets. You can see it if you look close:
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Here is how the Triumph Spitfire GT6 bushings fit in these brackets. They take exactly 2 grade 8 3/8" washers on each side to make them a perfect fit. This is nice though because it will allow me to skew the arms forwards or backwards 1/4" for fine tuning if needed.
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The welds are purdy too:
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Here is what I'm building the rear uprights out of: 5"x5"x1/4" box steel. I'll be slicing and dicing and will do some bending to get an A shape out of the peices I cut out. Shoudl be very strong but not too heavy when its done.
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PostPosted: March 6, 2006, 12:45 am 
Started making the rear uprights tonight... Heres where I'm at after a couple hours of work:

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Lots of little spot welds to put it together so it wouldnt warp too much.
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Here is one sitting about where it would need to go... just need some a-arms now.
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With the hub.. Still need to cut out the center section and drill for the hub bolts.
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Marked for trimming. A bracket will be welded to the top for the upper A-arm mounting point. I'll be picking up some DOM tube for the lower mounts. This will be welded into a cutout on the bottom of the upright. A single 1/2" bolt will pass through this and hold both lower joints captive.
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