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PostPosted: May 7, 2016, 3:33 pm 
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We are Slotus!
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Lonnie-
Take care of family, the car can wait. I'm happy to hear that her condition is not life threatening any more, that's some scary stuff there... Give Mrs Lonnie a big hug from me, TWWTFM and all of the gang here at Team Slotus (even Bubba). We wish her a speedy recovery.

Regards-
JD Kemp

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: May 8, 2016, 12:14 am 
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Lonnie,

My sincere hope is to see your post about taking your wife for that first drive in your Locost.

High energy thoughts are with you.

Cheers

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PostPosted: May 8, 2016, 12:18 am 
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Location: Under the weather. (Seattle)
I'm really glad to hear that life is managing to stay 'shiny side up' through this rocky patch of road! :cheers:

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PostPosted: May 8, 2016, 12:31 am 
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Yup, family is definitely more important than playing with toys. Good to hear things are getting better.
Kristian

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PostPosted: May 8, 2016, 9:25 am 
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Lonnie,
my best wishes to both of you. Your wife looks to be in good hands, with you being the chief cook and bottle washer, and that will be so helpful in her recovery. Cancer treatment has come so far in the last 20 years, and although it is a scary time to go through, the recovery rates are amazing. I lost my wife 17 years ago to Melanoma, and she was only 31 at the time, but I'm sure that in today's world she would have had a much better chance. Although there are no news worthy breakthroughs in Cancer treatment, the behind the scenes stuff is just getting better all the time.
Being the caregiver is important and rewarding, but don't forget, you need to refresh your mind from time to time with a different focus, and what better way to do that than working on your build. Or it will be so frustrating, you'll be happy to go on a few errands.

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PostPosted: May 8, 2016, 10:41 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Lonnie - Well wishes and a speedy recovery to your wifey.

Family first, these projects are hobbies not jobs.

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PostPosted: May 8, 2016, 1:31 pm 
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We're rooting for you... :)

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PostPosted: May 8, 2016, 4:43 pm 
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@MV8
@GonzoRacer
@benny_toe
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@horchoha
@horizenjob

Thank you, gentlemen, for the support and good wishes. Anne and I are feeling really good about the eventual outcome, but we just have this difficult "final stretch" to get through in the near term.

Regards,

Lonnie

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: May 10, 2016, 8:19 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
I got a little time out in the garage this afternoon. Mostly, I was cleaning up and getting stuff we brought back from the mountains put away in storage in the garage. However, tomorrow, I think I'm going to be ready to pull the rear axle out of the chassis, tack weld the control arm brackets and the coilover mounts to the axle tubes and get it ready for the Oceanside Driveline folks.

I do need to decide what I'm going to do about mounts for an anti-roll bar at rear. I'm not sure I'll really need it, but it's much easier to provide for that possibility now rather than in the future, so I think I should.

My last issue is the driveshaft clearance on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel. The differential is offset on my Mustang donor axle. I pushed the tunnel sides in as much as possible to get more seat room in the cockpit. I took some photos back in April of the situation and I'll post them below. I think I'm OK, but I'm interested in opinions. I have some more welding to do like triangulating the trans tunnel near the transmission mounts and some other things. I could alter the trans tunnel locally to provide more clearance, but I'd rather not as it will make sheeting the tunnel more difficult and cut into my passenger seat room.

My drive shaft will be 2-1/2" in diameter. I mocked up a situation using scrap pipe and some cardboard to thicken up the 2-3/8" scrap pipe a little. It ended up with a 2-5/8" diameter, so it's slightly larger than the shaft will be in real life. My chassis side Panhard rod mount is on the driver's side. So, unless I end up with the Panhard rod at a weird angle, the arc of it's swing should tend to pull the drive shaft away from the passenger side during roll either way. I'll have somewhere around 3/8" clearance at static ride height. Here's the photos:
Attachment:
Clearance-1-April-24-2016.JPG

Attachment:
Clearance-2-April-24-2016.JPG

Attachment:
Clearance-3-April-24-2016.JPG


If you see a problem let me know. If you don't think it's an issue, that would be good to know as well.

Cheers,


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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: May 10, 2016, 10:50 pm 
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I'd probably try to get a bit more clearance seeing as you're running bushings in your rear suspension. I had the same problem and instead of the vertical tube I used a piece of 1/8" x 3" flatbar that I put a slight crews in to add some strength and match the angle of the upper and lower tubes. I welded it on the outside of the tunnel, but it could easily be welded between the tubes so the tunnel panel will sit flush. I just ended the panel there instead. You can see the flatbar painted black here.
Image

You can see it better here. Maybe it's 4" wide, not 3".
Image

Kristian

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PostPosted: May 10, 2016, 10:50 pm 
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Not sure why that posted twice.
Kristian

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PostPosted: May 11, 2016, 12:58 pm 
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turbo_bird wrote:
Not sure why that posted twice.
Kristian


The flat bar/plate is a good idea. If I put the bulk of it forward of the vertical member noted, I should be able to tie it to the other pieces of the structure.

Your posting only appeared once. Maybe it was a hiccup in your browser instead?

Thanks, Kristian.

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: June 1, 2016, 9:59 pm 
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Anne is doing fairly well in her treatment program. Some days she's good and some days she's not. Yesterday was pretty good for her and I was able to get some time on the CAD system. Today was much better and I actually got some time in on the car itself.

The control arm brackets and the coilover brackets I've always planned to have the local driveline shop weld on. My 110V Miller welder really isn't up to the task. I've now got the budget to get the rear axle overhauled and a limited slip differential installed. I've got my gear ratio calculated, but hadn't completed the design for the rear anti-roll bar, and in particular, how it would attach to the rear axle.

I spent my CAD time getting that detail figured out and believe I've come up with something simple and economical, but suitable too. Here's the basic idea:
Attachment:
End-Link-Assembly.jpg

Here's how it looks hooked up to the rear control arm bracket:
Attachment:
End-Link-and-Bracket.jpg

I have some ideas about how I'll implement the adjuatable anti-roll bar, but will complete that later. This is what I needed to get the axle tacked up and over to the driveline shop.

My rear axle is a very busy place. I have to be careful with the packaging and interference issues as the potential for them abounds. Before I tacked things in place, I wanted to make sure it could be done practically. That is, the bolts can easily be inserted and to make sure they wouldn't interfere with the operation of the control arms. Too far up on the brackets and they would rub on the rod ends. Too far down the brackets and the bolts couldn't be inserted, and the top of the rod end would not extend far enough above the control arm bracket to meet the anti-roll bar arms.

So, I drilled and reamed the holes so that I could do a dry run before welding things in place. Here's that work:
Attachment:
6-1-16-End-Link-Mockup.JPG

Attachment:
6-1-16-Interference-Check-2.JPG


Out in the garage, I created some wooden spacers and clamped the control arm brackets in place. I had done the coilover brackets a week or so ago. So, here's what the axle looks like now:
Attachment:
6-1-16-Axle-Ready-for-Shop.JPG


Getting there was a little work. I used a Dremmel tool to do the final fitting of the brackets to the axle and making a slight chamfer for welding them in place. I used a screw jack and a magnetic angle indicator to get the face of the pinion shaft flange vertical.
Attachment:
6-1-16-Base-Measure.JPG


Then I used the spacers and some clamps to hold the parts loosely and get them vertical too. Once they were right, I tightened the clamps and tacked the brackets in place.
Attachment:
6-1-16-Basic-Method.JPG


Of course, I check things for squareness as I went, so I wouldn't get any nasty surprises once I removed the clamps.
Attachment:
6-1-16-Checking-Square.JPG


I tacked the brackets on both sides, let them cool, and removed the clamps. Here's the result on the driver's side. Obviously, the passenger side is similar.
Attachment:
6-1-16-Drivers-Tacked.JPG


So, that's it for the day. I hope to have the axle to the driveline shop in the afternoon, assuming they have time to get started on it.


Oh, did I tell you what followed us home from the mountains? There's a photo below. This will be the first "official" use of it for the Locost mission. :mrgreen: I did remove the toolboxes from the side rails of the bed and sell them on Craig's list. That give me enough room in the bed to do all the Locost hauling tasks.
Attachment:
Passenger-3Qtr.JPG


Cheers,


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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: June 2, 2016, 1:05 am 
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Looking good on the axle brackets. Way better than mine ever looked. I can't remember how I made sure everything was lined up, but I'm pretty sure I wasn't as meticulous as you. Nice truck too, must be nice being in California and having all kinds of rust free classics to choose from. Up here everything like that is rusted to pieces by now.
Kristian

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PostPosted: June 3, 2016, 10:51 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
@turbo_bird
Thank you for the compliments on the brackets. I got the axle delivered to the driveline shop yesterday afternoon and I think they'll do a nice job with it. It's been very nice to get off dead center and get something major accomplished.

Yeah, it's fortune about the lack of rust in most things on the truck. It definitely has rust in the seams of the two major side panels of the bed and some light rust in other places. Basically, the cab seems very solid, however. I'm debating about whether to fix it (used bed, or new panels, or patch panels I make) or just turn it into a flatbed. I like the Aussie approach to expedition trucks, which is really an aluminum canopy built on a flatbed structure.

I was planning to convert it to diesel, but just found out there's company selling all the parts you need to swap in a 302 Ford V8. That has a lot of appeal as those engines are simple and plentiful and have all the power I require. It also is a much lower hurdle to jump with our SMOG/DMV and BAR (Bureau of Automotive Repair) folks if you don't change the fuel type and swap in an engine from a similar class of vehicle. So, for example, swapping in a gasoline 302 from a Ford truck rather than a diesel from a Mercedes or Audi/VW passenger car makes them happier. That's all a ways off though.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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