LocostUSA.com

Yo, Lonnie-
Looks like you're off to a good start with the frame. And I agree, that was a good idea that came out of the discussion about keeping the frame straight. I think you'll benefit from using that "mini-table" and building sections. Good plan!!!

Regards-
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

with regard to the secret hand shake, just the worried look on your face due to the dwindling bank account during the build is enough to make you a member, but you're not fully paid up until the smile that won't go away once you drive it is on your face, then and only then are you a fully paid up member.

is it all worth while? you best believe it!

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this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.

Hi,I want to build a seven ,but I don`t know how to build a Correct chassis.so I want to know the exact size first,can you help me!

What you've done so far looks very good.

The best dimensions to use are in the two books on Locost Sports cars. Here are the entries for the USA site of Amazon. They undoubtedly have a site in your native language too, which would be better for you.

1) Original design ==> http://www.amazon.com/Build-Your-Sports ... 919&sr=1-1

2) Updated design ==> http://www.amazon.com/Build-Your-Own-Sp ... 973&sr=1-1

You'll have to reconstruct the car from the dimensions given. It's a little bit of a bother because the dimensions are for the practical task of constructing the car from steel and aluminum and not the best ones for building a 3D model. However, it can be done. I've done it twice.

There are some 3D files out on the Internet. However, they are all in a basic CAD interchange file format, which does not give you access to the sketches and logic used to build the models themselves. It's basically good for checking dimensions and visualization purposes and not much else. Often, you can add on to such models in assemblies, but you're always working around problems. It's best to do your own from scratch if what you truly want is a custom version.

3) Here is one such site ==> http://www.sevenesque.com/3d-models/

I can see from what you posted here that you have the talent and access to modeling software. It's just a matter of getting started and then devoting the time to it. It is worth doing because you can customize the vehicle to your specific needs and interests.

Good luck,

Lonnie

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

the small sub ass'ys are a very good idea, it will pervent a lot of distortion, be sure to fully weld each sub ass'y before putting them together, if you can think in 3 dimensions with your jigs, this will also help, especiall with the sides of the drivers compartment.

be careful when you get to the tunnel as i found that when i welded it in, it pulled the lower rear x member towards the front of the chassis, as this was my datum, it had to be corrected.

glad to see some steel being laid down after so many pages!

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this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.

John, how did you correct the distortion? Did you heat the outer longerons at the cross tube? Would you recommend making the tunnel a little longer to account for post-weld shrink?


-Pete

i cut the tubes and it went back into place, then i braced it with some 11/2" tube clamped it down at both ends and rewelded it.

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this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.

Thanks, John. Sorry about the mini hi-jack, Lonnie.


-Pete

Quote " It is so effective and fast at cutting steel that it’s downright scary. I’m thinking I’m going to get some of those chainmail gloves that butchers wear. This thing could take a finger off in a heartbeat."

Hey Lonnie,

I sure hope that you're not using gloves of any kind when you're operating your bandsaw. Those chainmail gloves are meant to protect butchers from knife blades only. If the bandsaw was to catch the glove it would try to suck it off of your hand and could end up amputating a portion of a finger, a finger or fingers, or damage a whole hand in a micro-second.

Check out the credible sites on the internet regarding glove use, any kind of glove use, when operating powered equipment with blades or spinning shafts...its verbotten in the workplace and should be at home too.

I've seen the results of one of these accidents where a blade caught a glove, a kevlar work glove, and it amputated two finger tips while pulling about 18" of 4 tendons out of the person's arm. It wasn't a pretty sight. So, work very very carefully on your saw and do not wear gloves while doing it.

Bill

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Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada

Bill,

Thank you for this information. I was not aware of this. I have been using gloves - just heavy leather ones. However, I will definitely check out bandsaw safety on the Internet today. Funny, I thought it was increasing my safety, not the other way round.

Thanks again,

Lonnie

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Hi Lonnie-
I read Bill's post with interest as well. I wasn't aware of that aspect of "rotating device" -bandsaw- safety, but as a 30+ year veteran of the drilling industry, I can testify that any loose clothing (or hair!) that could get caught up in a rotating device is a big-time safety hazard. I have one friend that walks funny to this day, because the unzipped leg of his Carhartt coveralls got caught in a rotating driveshaft of a drilling rig. Bad, bad, ugly accident.

Yes, look into gloves and bandsaws, and think about loose cuffs, long sleeves in general and that kind of thing. I still gots all ten of my piggies, I wanna stay that way, and I'm sure you wanna stay that way too. (Base 9 is a b*tch!)

Besides, I never liked wearin gloves anyhow...

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Latex gloves (to keep them hands Ivory clean) are ok but anything that takes more to tear than a piece of tissue paper is BAD NEWS.
You will not be able to pull your hand out of the way. ....
I've met more than one person with permanent damage because something got caught in a rotating assembly, a bald headed bus mechanic comes to mind. ..

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"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

While doing a little automotive research on the web, I found a great "For Sale" flyer on one of the race cars I watched being built as budding wannabe car designer in high school. This one, and several other outstanding race cars done by other local builders, did motivate me to go to engineering school though, at least until The Letter arrived. I though others might enjoy seeing it too.

It just sold. The asking price was $115,000 USD. I though of buying it, but it would put such a dent in my Locost budget. It was nice to see it in such good shape, however. It is a reminder that I have always had Champagne aspirations, but beer talents. I'm definitely getting better though.


Here it is ==> http://www.dobsonmotorsport.com/invento ... l.php?id=9

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Yo, Lonnie-
Wow, that Webster Spl is ferr-shurr a "champagne" car... Hand formed aluminum body (and a gorgeous one, too)!?!?!? Amazing. I'd love to "borrow" that little alloy Olds V8 as well. (I was thinking that was a "Buick" design, but who am I to argue.)

Beauty of a car, thanks for posting that. Now get back to work...

JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

I'm glad you enjoyed it JD. The guy who did it was a legend in the Bay Area back in my youth. He did bodies for everything: hot rods; sprint cars; road racing cars; Bonneville streamliners; Indy cars; airplanes; etc. Here is one of his street cars. I just so admire and respect this kind of work.

Classic Hagemann sports car ==> http://www.conceptcarz.com/vehicle/z150 ... ecial.aspx

Cheers,

Lonnie

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886