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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: August 20, 2018, 12:11 am 
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My Google mechanic told me that VSS is 'Vehicle Speed Sensor' usually located in the tranny.. He will tell you all about them if you ask nicely.

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PostPosted: August 20, 2018, 10:19 am 
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:wink: Thank you, Larry.

How soon we forget. Google, of course.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 20, 2018, 10:55 am 
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benny_toe wrote:
My Google mechanic told me that VSS is 'Vehicle Speed Sensor' usually located in the tranny.. He will tell you all about them if you ask nicely.
The Google is strong in this one... :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: August 20, 2018, 3:00 pm 
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If it weren't for Google and this here list I wouldn't never find out nuthin :lol:

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PostPosted: August 20, 2018, 6:01 pm 
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Not actually digital but AC output that has to be compatible with the speedo used, which the 94 cluster should be.
Also, after 88 or so, ford stopped using an actual oil pressure gauge in the mustang, so I suggest adding one or going with a 86-93 cluster, possibly from the ford family that may have an electronic speedo.

I'm fairly certain that any cluster from the 80s with a two wire VSS and a six cylinder tach can be made to work as long as the schematic shows a direct connection to the cluster speedo from the VSS. The you just need the oem sensors from the cluster donor, matching fuel level sender, and an aftermarket signal scaler/conditioner.

The 94-98 VSS is essentially the same as the earlier one but without a speedo cable. They are nearly identical and the plug is the same.

Right on swapping gears. I was thinking about my fiero using the fixed ratio VSS trans from a 2002 cobalt. It needed a signal conditioner/scaler to work with the fiero speedo. I used a Dakota Digital SGI5E. In your case, each tooth difference adds or subtracts about 5 mph from the indicated speed. I've never had to change the drive gear on the shaft, only the driven on the VSS to correct the speed.

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PostPosted: August 21, 2018, 9:44 am 
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Sensors, wires, gears? Man, you're getting me scared now. :wink:

I'll need to figure this out someday. :-?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 22, 2018, 12:17 pm 
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As far as construction goes, this is more or less a "keep alive" signal. I work when I can, but during this hot & sticky weather cycle, my garage starts out at 80° F and gets worse all day. However, I do get a few things done. Next week we are promised a break in the heat, and I'll try to take maximum advantage of that.

The side plates are completed having been drilled, reamed, filed and edge ground for radii all-around. It is becoming a source of satisfaction and pride that I've developed some practical procedures that make the holes end up where they should be, and have all surfaces sitting flat, with easy entry of the fasteners. As a fabricator, I must be rising to the level of a somewhat competent apprentice. Yeah!
Attachment:
File comment: Driver's side completed side plate. Primer was applied after removal.
DSC04409.JPG
DSC04409.JPG [ 129.61 KiB | Viewed 382 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Driver's side plate fitted over gussets with weld nuts in place.
DSC04410.JPG
DSC04410.JPG [ 129.1 KiB | Viewed 382 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: It all looks a little ugly here, but the gussets are fully welded along their join to the chassis RHS on the inside with the weld ground flush. Strategically applied fillet welds are on the outside. The gussets should be able to handle all push and pull forces.
DSC04413.JPG
DSC04413.JPG [ 134 KiB | Viewed 382 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: As with construction of any kind, things look much better with a coat of paint, which can also hide many sins.
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DSC04415.JPG [ 132.72 KiB | Viewed 382 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Although some of the plan (today's part) were "field upgrades", this has always been the intended jacking point for the car, MGB-style. The bottom two plates support the jacking plate itself, which will be attached over top of the undertray. The lower, vertical gusset plate serves to stiffen the vertical RHS and serve as a mounting location for the exhaust pipe and muffler. Now with the addition of the side plates and the dash hoop and trans tunnel triangulation that will connect to same, this area will be very, very strong. Too bad it's still about 2" below the bumper of a Chevy Suburban and Cadillac Escalade. :-((

My chassis is on now transitioning from triangulated purity to what one British designer un-romantically calls "That big bracket that connects the engine and transmission to the wheels and tires."

DSC04416.JPG
DSC04416.JPG [ 95.83 KiB | Viewed 382 times ]


Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 28, 2018, 9:00 pm 
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horchoha wrote:
I had nightmares about the floor. Anxiety attacks, cold sweats, nerves. . . . .


I borrowed (and slightly edited) the above from Perry's entry of a couple of years ago. Personally, I'd say Perry was optimistic compared to my self-inflicted worries. :roll: Would I get a banana chassis? Would it twist? I still don't know, but I'm on my way to finding out.

I've re-read stuff from several floor-welding threads and from Racer Al, Nick, JD, Mnot, Dave W and others. I'm still not settled on a method, but I did get started on the pattern for the floor. I have the metal sheet for it on hand.

Initially I thought I'd tape stripes of heavy butcher paper together with tape to make a 4'x6' rectangle as that's the size of my steel sheet. It was a virgin cut-off from a big job and I got it super cheap, so it's 4'x6' and not 4'x8'. It would have been a pain to make up the paper pattern, and not very stiff. Fortunately, last week my wife noticed some thin plastic sheets at Home Depot. They're 4'x8' and reasonably stiff, but I figured I could cut it without too much trouble. So, I bought a sheet of it.
Attachment:
File comment: Plastic sheet for floor pattern.
DSC04402.JPG
DSC04402.JPG [ 127.61 KiB | Viewed 303 times ]


It does sag slightly between the cross-chassis RHS members, but not a huge amount.
Attachment:
File comment: A little sag happens, but not too much to be workable.
DSC04419.JPG
DSC04419.JPG [ 135.52 KiB | Viewed 303 times ]


It trims pretty easily with ordinary shears.
Attachment:
File comment: Cut outs are pretty easy to do.
DSC04420.JPG
DSC04420.JPG [ 125.96 KiB | Viewed 303 times ]


Trimming it to my 1/8" setback line (put down in red sharpie) takes some patience and careful measurement, but it's totally do-able.
Attachment:
File comment: 1/8" set back line in red
DSC04422.JPG
DSC04422.JPG [ 131.5 KiB | Viewed 303 times ]


I got the outer chassis rails laid out today. To do some of the inside details (I have a number of twists and turns in the transmission tunnel), I need to trace out a rough outline, trim to that, and then detail cut to my setback lines.

In order to keep sag to a minimum when I turn the chassis, I ran some flat 1"x1-1/2" boards over the plastic and then clamped everything down before turning it over.
Attachment:
File comment: Sheet trimmed to outer edge of bottom rails with boards to minimize sag when turned right side up.
DSC04424.JPG
DSC04424.JPG [ 141.54 KiB | Viewed 303 times ]


This also lets me set out my interior welding scheme as I'll be able to see what I can reall get at with the MIG torch. Tomorrow, I'll attack the transmission tunnel trimming and add in the small pieces under and forward of the engine mount pads.
Attachment:
File comment: Right side up.
DSC04425.JPG
DSC04425.JPG [ 136.33 KiB | Viewed 303 times ]


Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 29, 2018, 1:09 am 
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(horchoha wrote:
I had nightmares about the floor. Anxiety attacks, cold sweats, nerves. . . . .)

LOL Lonnie, you surprised me with that quote of mine. I don't remember it, must of happened in the 70's :lol:

Lonnie-S wrote:
Would I get a banana chassis? Would it twist? I still don't know, but I'm on my way to finding out.

Anyhoo, like I've said before, a frame is just what it is, it's a platform that's not necessarily 100% true that you attach all your suspension and steering components to and adjust them to 100% true, to whatever camber, caster, toe in/out adjustments on the front and rear attachments you wish to make.

I believe that many fabricators of frames and suspension and steering geometry on this site have frames that are way more precise than that of many auto manufacturers out there.

Long story short my friend IMHO, you have no worries

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"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
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Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
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PostPosted: August 29, 2018, 10:57 am 
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@horchoha

Thanks for the encouragement, Perry.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 30, 2018, 2:14 am 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
@horchoha

Thanks for the encouragement, Perry.

Cheers,


Hey, I plan on sitting in your build this coming winter (vroom, vroom!).
Build on!

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'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build, The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered


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PostPosted: August 30, 2018, 7:15 am 
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horchoha wrote:
Hey, I plan on sitting in your build this coming winter.
Well for Garsh-Sakes, be careful and don't warp the damn thing when you do! Lonnie's got enough to worry about... :mrgreen:

Lonnie, I'm sure your care and planning will pay dividends in the end. How-some-ever, I think Perry is correct in that even if the frame isn't EGG-Zackly, 101%, abso-F'ing-lutely straight, you can adjust the suspension attachments and then even the coilovers to correct for it and come out good. Don't stress, proceed with caution, but proceed. You're doing great work. Really.

:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: August 30, 2018, 11:08 am 
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@GonzoRacer

Well thank you for the compliment on the work, JD. I certainly appreciate that.

Yeah, Perry thinks he coming down here for a winter vacation. I may hijack him and get my build finished in about three weeks instead. I'm thinking a shop apron with his name and an Image of his "roadmaster" Locost may do the trick, :mrgreen:

In part because of my personality, but mostly because of what I did for 30+ years, I do try to anticipate every possible problem and either prevent it, or work around it. This welding of large structures is really a fairly complex problem. 60" x 44" is a fairly large area to weld in essentially what is one big part.

Welding symmetrically has worked well for me so far. But, then Racer Al took a very different approach and it worked out equally as well for him. I'm keeping myself in suspense by not making up my mind until welding day arrives. :lol:

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 30, 2018, 11:44 am 
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Welding symmetrically has worked well for me so far.
Hmmm... I'm pretty sure the welding on the Slotus was asymmetrical. Every damned thing else was, so why would the welding be different? :rofl:

It just occurred to me: If you put two S's in "asymmetrical" it would create a new word - "ASSymetrical" - and perfectly describe most of Project Slotus, welding and otherwise... :rofl:

But you, on the other end of the spectrum, are doing some exemplary work. Keep it up!

:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: August 30, 2018, 12:19 pm 
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Looking good! I’m sure you have thought of this as you are pretty thorough, but don’t forget that you can drill holes in the floor and plug weld it from the bottom in any areas that you can’t get in and weld from the top side. Drill a series of holes and stager every other weld to the left and right sides of the tubing.


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