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PostPosted: December 6, 2019, 8:00 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Yup, it's a SWG-25 bender. Some call it a pipe bender. Some call it a tube bender. However, according to what I've read in reviews and seen on video, folks have used it for both even though we know about the ID/OD differences. The roller die is adjustable, which probably accounts for the fact that it works on both.

Here's a nice video on YouTube ==> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITrZNnPz46w

I bought mine on Amazon. It's listed here ==> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DD ... UTF8&psc=1

I see it's listed for ~$125, but I got mine for a little less last year under the Prime program. I went with a vendor called SHZOND (all caps) because of customer reviews and the fact that he/she/it had stock in the USA. I got it in 2 days from a California warehouse. That may be a disadvantage for you, Mike.

Be careful. Some sellers drop ship from China and want 6 weeks for delivery.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: December 7, 2019, 1:22 pm 
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What is the Center Line Radius of the 3/4 Inch and 1 inch dies?

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PostPosted: December 8, 2019, 10:54 am 
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Mike, I haven't seen that information anywhere for my tool. There is no user manual with the tool, so one would have to measure it from real life. I won't be out in the garage for another day. However, I could give you an approximation for the 3/4" tube (3/4" OD) when I get back out there as I have some material to markup and put in the dies. I don't have any 1" material.

Baileigh has a product that looks like the SWG-25, and probably is the same tool with the addition of a plastic case for the tool & dies. Two of the dies are for 3/4" square and 1" square, but there's a 3/4" round. It's called the RDB-25 and you can find it here.

That ad gives the following:
3/4-inches outside diameter by 3.5-inches CLR - round
1-inches Square by 4.25-inches CLR

The square die should be close to the 1" round. The 3/4" square is 3.75" CLR versus 3.5" of the round.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: December 8, 2019, 12:00 pm 
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Thanks, Lonnie. I was just curious. It would seem that Northern Tool has the same kit as Baileigh. Plastic case and all.

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PostPosted: January 5, 2020, 12:18 am 
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I'm back at it in the new year. I just need a few pieces to complete the back of the car structurally. Mastering the SWG-25 bender I bought is task One in making the required parts. Wayback in the way back, I built this universal tool mount. Knowing I'd have several tools (bead roller, English wheel, tubing bender, etc.) that need to be mounted to something, and not having floor space for each tool to have it's own mount, I came up with this idea.
Attachment:
File comment: Portable, "universal" tool mount built in yesteryear.
Bender 1.JPG
Bender 1.JPG [ 123.73 KiB | Viewed 1494 times ]

My english wheel shows in this photo. But, remove 4 bolts, and you can mount something else like the SWG-25 tubing bender and put the other tool up on a storage rack.
Attachment:
File comment: English wheel off, bender on.
Bender 2.JPG
Bender 2.JPG [ 183.78 KiB | Viewed 1494 times ]

I wanted to be able to use all 360° of space around it, so I made the handle removable. That proved to be a necessity for the bender.
Attachment:
File comment: Handle dismount for 360 degree work space.
Bender 4.JPG
Bender 4.JPG [ 142.82 KiB | Viewed 1494 times ]

This bender looks to be a copy of an old-time Rigid bender, redone in metric dimensions, but marketed in Imperial units - sounds dangerou doesn't it? I wanted to verify the pretty sketchy info that's out there (no user's manual) on the Internet. First, I wanted to check the Center Line Radius (CLR) given for it using the 3/4" (19mm) die set, which is the tubing I'll be using for my parts. It is supposed to be 3.5". That's close, but not 100% accurate. I make it as about 3/32" less than that, but close enough for any government work [LOL].

Also, since there is no way on the machine to measure the angle you've bent through, or read off any linear distances along the outer edge of the fixed die, I wanted to set up something that would allow me to be consistent in my bending of 90° bends, which are the ones I need to be accurately. So, I set up a little improvised indication using masking tape and a protractor. I also thought it would help me figure out the spring back factor.
Attachment:
File comment: Degree settings improvised on the fixed die.
Bender 6.JPG
Bender 6.JPG [ 139.6 KiB | Viewed 1494 times ]


Then I got to bending using some cheap conduit that is slightly undersized for the die, but OK as a learning tool. That's when I got to the bad news. This bender is pretty marginal in a couple of areas.
Attachment:
File comment: Bender dies in place and ready to go.
Bender 5.JPG
Bender 5.JPG [ 139.68 KiB | Viewed 1494 times ]

First, my base at 100+ pounds moves readily, even for the thin-walled conduit. My bad. I bought 120lb of river rock in plastic bags to stack on it for additional weight. However, I think I'm going to need some handles on the mount so a helper can also resist the torque applied when bending.

Second, the big tab that supposedly locks the tube in for bending is way too sloppy, and the tube easily wedges away from the die when force is applied to the bending handle, even for the 3/4" OD tubing, which is a pretty snug fit. As a work-around, I used some making tape wrapped around the tubing to tighten things up. The tape is soft and gouges, so it's not 100% effective, but it's better anyway.
Attachment:
File comment: Taking up slack to prevent wedging of the tubing.
Bender 7.JPG
Bender 7.JPG [ 124.99 KiB | Viewed 1494 times ]

Here's the really bad news, this bender will barely move the 3/4" by 16 SWG mild steel tubing under the best of circumstances. It is supposed to bend 1" tube at 2mm (0.079" wall, almost 14 SWG). You really have to jerk it around to get the tube to bend at all even with the giant handle it has. I may need to heat the 16 SWG tubing prior to bending.

The thin conduit bends OK, but being undersize, it distorts some what. It is acceptable for the purpose at hand, shaping the rear sheet metal for the boot, but too thin and galvanized as well.
Attachment:
File comment: Thin conduit bent to 90°
bENDER 9.JPG
bENDER 9.JPG [ 132.73 KiB | Viewed 1494 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: The conduit is too thin to trust at the rear of the build, so I'll need to figure out a way to get the 3/4" tube done.
Bender 8.JPG
Bender 8.JPG [ 148.8 KiB | Viewed 1494 times ]

I have a helper coming over tomorrow, so I think it will be a more successful day than today.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 5, 2020, 8:46 pm 
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I did solve my problem. It took a combination of a "cheater" piece, more ballast and some generous heat applied to the 3/4" x 16 SWG tube. My helper had an emergency surgery on one of her dogs, although she was still willing to come over if I needed her. I let that go, but her help would have solved the problem completely.

120 pounds of river rock in plastic bags was my additional ballast. It was almost good enough, but the bender still moved some. I just left enough clear space this time for the rig to rotate until I got the bend started by jerking a little to get that first movement.
Attachment:
File comment: River rock bags stacked on base.
DSC05271.JPG
DSC05271.JPG [ 157.79 KiB | Viewed 1460 times ]


I used a 90° bend of the conduit to mark out the location where the tube should be placed in the binder tab on the tube bender. As you'll see below, I heated the tube until I got a heat affected zone while the tube was locked down in the bender. A couple of jerks on the handle started the bend and it was pretty easy to finish it.
Attachment:
File comment: Nice 90° bend showing heat affected zone.
DSC05272.JPG
DSC05272.JPG [ 144.67 KiB | Viewed 1460 times ]

I didn't know if my cheater method would be 100% repeatable since this was the first time I did it. So I left the passenger side bend until the drivers was 100% fitted. Tomorrow, I'll check my marks and make the second, passenger side bend, or alter their locations if necessary to end up even with my lower chassis rail.
Attachment:
File comment: Driver's side fitted and complete.
DSC05278.JPG
DSC05278.JPG [ 140.88 KiB | Viewed 1460 times ]

It's a little slow for me as I need to teach myself things, like using new fab tools, bending tube accurately, etc., as new construction skills are required. I'm happy with the results, though.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 6, 2020, 8:40 am 
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Location: Delaware
Nice work with the small bender. My experience is similar especially with the tube locking tabs. I have a hex head bolt instead of the socket head on mine and will use a small c-clamp against the hex bolt just to hold the tube in place prior to bending.


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PostPosted: January 6, 2020, 9:47 am 
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Lonnie, with respect to the walking tool support ....

I drilled four holes in the base flange of my borrowed tubing bender (or maybe they were already there) and then drilled matching holes in the garage floor for expansion bolts. When using the bender the bolts are just in shear so there is no concern about the strength of the slab. Bolt holes fill up with floor sweepings between use, but there are worse aggravations in life.

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PostPosted: January 6, 2020, 11:47 am 
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hfmaxi wrote:
Nice work with the small bender. My experience is similar especially with the tube locking tabs. I have a hex head bolt instead of the socket head on mine and will use a small c-clamp against the hex bolt just to hold the tube in place prior to bending.


That's a good point. I have some clamps with soft plastic jaws. Perhaps they would conform to the round socket head on my unit and keep the tube a little straighter at bend time and lessen the small gouge the tab makes in the tube? My bolts are also metric. Not that that's a sin, I just don't have a hex bolt to replace it with on hand.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 6, 2020, 12:01 pm 
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Warren Nethercote wrote:
Lonnie, with respect to the walking tool support ....

I drilled four holes in the base flange of my borrowed tubing bender (or maybe they were already there) and then drilled matching holes in the garage floor for expansion bolts. When using the bender the bolts are just in shear so there is no concern about the strength of the slab. Bolt holes fill up with floor sweepings between use, but there are worse aggravations in life.


Thanks for the input, Warren. Unfortunately, our slabs (the house and garage are both on them) are the post-tension type with cables at right angles. I don't have a means of identifying their locations. So, it's not a good idea to drill into them.
Attachment:
File comment: Post-Tension slab construction.
Post-Tension Slab.jpg
Post-Tension Slab.jpg [ 53.47 KiB | Viewed 1425 times ]



Thanks, though.

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 6, 2020, 1:53 pm 
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Lonnie, I have no knowledge of post tension slabs. Won't a metal detector find the cables? Or can you see the clamps on the outside edge of the slab and measure where they run? Just wondering....

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PostPosted: January 6, 2020, 4:33 pm 
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Another option would be to mount a couple of removable "struts" to the side wall at floor level and have them attachable to the base to stop the twisting torque.
I do like the floor anchor idea, that would be the best.

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PostPosted: January 6, 2020, 7:07 pm 
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Speaking of floors, either mod the handle you have or fit a new brkt like so and lay it over.


Attachments:
lonnies bender.JPG
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PostPosted: January 6, 2020, 9:57 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
Lonnie, I have no knowledge of post tension slabs. Won't a metal detector find the cables? Or can you see the clamps on the outside edge of the slab and measure where they run? Just wondering....


You can uncover the clamps around the house slab on 3 sides if you are willing to dig down. The garage slab clamps are covered in concrete on 3 sides of the garage (walk way, driveway, house slab) and you have to dig down for the 4th side.

I really don't know if a metal detector would be sufficient or not. One of our neighbors is a contractor. I'll see what he knows. It would be very nice to have a bolt-up situation in the slab. However, at $9.79 a bag, river rocks are a pretty easy, no-hassle option.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 6, 2020, 10:07 pm 
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horchoha wrote:
Another option would be to mount a couple of removable "struts" to the side wall at floor level and have them attachable to the base to stop the twisting torque.
I do like the floor anchor idea, that would be the best.


The garage has a footing poured around it on 3 sides for the walls (photo), so it would be a little more complicated, but do-able perhaps. I'll have to give that a think-think, Perry.
Attachment:
File comment: Footing on garage slab
Garage Footing.jpg
Garage Footing.jpg [ 111.82 KiB | Viewed 1390 times ]


We've got a little weather out here this year don't we? Still, it's not too bad.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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