LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently March 29, 2020, 11:45 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 49 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: January 12, 2009, 6:54 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 10, 2006, 9:56 am
Posts: 195
Location: Maryland
Ok, I've been pretty lazy about doing a build log. Figure I'll start small, and just post a little at a time. I'm well into the process of building a Haynes Roadster. My goal is to keep as close to book as reasonable, and not get bogged down on designing things with my first build. I also love the look of the 50's race cars, and will be going for the vintage look as much as possible. I've had an MG Midget all through high school and college, and wanted something British, but a little more modern in mechanicals. I didn't use a donor, which drives the cost up, but allows me a little flexibility with parts and room.

Here are some parts that deviated from the book.
2006 2.0 Ford Focus Duratec
2006 MX-5 6speed transmission
60s MGB rack and steering column.
Civic Radiator
GSX 750 Throttle bodies
TBird SC rear disks (TBird turbo rotors)
BMW motor and transmission rubber mounts

Mark


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 12, 2009, 7:13 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 10, 2006, 9:56 am
Posts: 195
Location: Maryland
I'll start with the current status. I've been spending a lot of time trying to get the suspension and steering done. The means lots of bead blasting, pickling and painting of old parts. I'll get coil overs later, when I can corner weight the car. I also bought new bearings and seals. Rebuild kits for calipers, etc. Here are a couple pictures.

The suspension pieces attached:
Image
Image

The cleaned up and painted Merkur Diff:
Image

My pedal box:
Image

A couple of scuttle pics:
Image
Image

Kirkey vintage bucket:
Image

Minilite replicas:
Image

The steering column and rack:
Image

Mark


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 12, 2009, 7:19 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 10, 2006, 9:56 am
Posts: 195
Location: Maryland
It's hard to see in my previous post, but I cut the casting on the steering rack a little short. It's about an inch smaller than I want, which allows to much travel in the rack, but more importantly puts the column and u-joints a little close to the engine. You can see a little better in these pictures:
Image
Image

I have a rack coming from Keith Tanner that I may try to cut a little less out of. Note the rack itself is the right length, I just cut to much out of the casting.

Mark


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 12, 2009, 7:40 pm 
Offline
Always Moore!
User avatar

Joined: November 9, 2007, 3:40 pm
Posts: 3975
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Nice looking build. That Duratec should be a great engine.

What year is your MGB rack?

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 12, 2009, 9:06 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: November 29, 2008, 8:54 pm
Posts: 94
Location: Ada, MI
How much do you suggest taking out of the rack, also? Where did you do the cutting? Any Pix of this?

Mark

_________________
http://oldbritishmetal.wetpaint.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/michmark/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 13, 2009, 7:42 am 
Offline

Joined: October 10, 2006, 9:56 am
Posts: 195
Location: Maryland
I don't recall the exact year of the rack. Maybe 65? My invoice says 63-74.

I gave the machinist the finished length, I think he took out about 4 inches. The exact length is given in the book. I took the rack to Rod at http://www.onthegroundperformance.com/, he is only a few miles from me. I can look, but I don't think I took any pictures of the rack while it was apart. If there is something specific you are looking for, let me know. I have another rack on the way that I will take apart. Note, I had the pinion shaft shortened also.

Mark


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 13, 2009, 12:36 pm 
Offline
Weight watcher
User avatar

Joined: March 7, 2006, 6:15 pm
Posts: 2394
Location: Northridge, CA
A nice build like yours deserves a nice radiator fan :wink:

Moti

_________________
Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

Visit the Blackbird Fabworx Facebook Page!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 13, 2009, 12:47 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 2, 2008, 12:37 pm
Posts: 191
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Mark,

Great to see started a build log. I've seen several of your posts here and on the Haynes Roadster site, your build looks real good so far. Keep up the good work.

-IndyJoe

_________________
Starting a Scratch Build - ThunderBird Turbo Coupe Donor Car - being dismantled
Build Log Started: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4914


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 13, 2009, 7:36 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 10, 2006, 9:56 am
Posts: 195
Location: Maryland
These are the best pictures I could find of the rack. This is before I cut the pinion shaft. You can see that I cut to much out of the casting.


Attachments:
steering_07.jpg
steering_07.jpg [ 61.8 KiB | Viewed 9479 times ]
steering_06.jpg
steering_06.jpg [ 65.71 KiB | Viewed 9475 times ]
steering_05.jpg
steering_05.jpg [ 60.72 KiB | Viewed 9465 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 20, 2009, 8:35 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 10, 2006, 9:56 am
Posts: 195
Location: Maryland
I was out of town this weekend, but had off Monday and Tuesday. So I got some work done on the steering rack. I also took some measurements for the drive shaft and the half shafts. I hope to have the work done next week on the driveshaft.


Attachments:
File comment: The "new" rack the I got from Keith with 3" cut out of it.
s4.gif
s4.gif [ 74.21 KiB | Viewed 9338 times ]
File comment: This is how much I can add back into the rack housing at about 38 degrees of wheel turn.
s1.gif
s1.gif [ 61.57 KiB | Viewed 9329 times ]
File comment: steering at full lock with the current rack housning, about 45 degrees.
s2.gif
s2.gif [ 119.99 KiB | Viewed 9327 times ]
File comment: Clearance between the engine and steering shaft with current rack.
s3.gif
s3.gif [ 85.48 KiB | Viewed 9318 times ]


Last edited by mconley3 on January 20, 2009, 8:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 20, 2009, 8:47 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 10, 2006, 9:56 am
Posts: 195
Location: Maryland
Some more pictures


Attachments:
File comment: New widened rack mount
s7.gif
s7.gif [ 217.5 KiB | Viewed 9285 times ]
File comment: My original rack housing, the stock rack and my modified rack.
s5.gif
s5.gif [ 85.17 KiB | Viewed 9276 times ]
File comment: The new and old rack housing compared. The new housing is an inch longer.
s6.gif
s6.gif [ 70.55 KiB | Viewed 9269 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 20, 2009, 8:53 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 10, 2006, 9:56 am
Posts: 195
Location: Maryland
The Merkur diff mounted so I can take measurements.


Attachments:
d1.gif
d1.gif [ 186.15 KiB | Viewed 9247 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 20, 2009, 9:46 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 2, 2008, 12:37 pm
Posts: 191
Location: Indianapolis, IN
mconley3 wrote:
The Merkur diff mounted so I can take measurements.


Mark,

Aren't you using the stock Merkur Half-shafts? If not, why not? Don't they not work with the Haynes Roadster?

p.s.

Glad you got the steering rack sorted out.

Looking good!

-Indy Joe

_________________
Starting a Scratch Build - ThunderBird Turbo Coupe Donor Car - being dismantled
Build Log Started: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4914


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 21, 2009, 7:54 am 
Offline

Joined: October 10, 2006, 9:56 am
Posts: 195
Location: Maryland
I'll have to modify them. If you build the a-arms to book, you would need to cut 10mm out of the Sierra half shafts. They did give plans for a-arms that are 10mm longer so you don't have to cut the half shafts. I don't like the look of wide fenders, so I didn't want to add to the rear width.

I used the Merkur parts, not Sierra parts. The Merkur has a wider differential and uses Lubro joints that bolt on both sides. The Sierra has regular CV joints and the one side slides into the differential. I wasn't sure what this meant for my measurements so I had to wait till I had it all together and could measure. The drivers side half shaft is 30mm to long and the passenger side is 20 mm to long. The extra width in the differential is on the drivers side. I'm not sure how much should be taken out until I talk to the drive line shop. I don't know how much preload should be in the Lubro joints.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: January 25, 2009, 6:02 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 10, 2006, 9:56 am
Posts: 195
Location: Maryland
I got the steering back together and am in the process of pulling the engine. I have to take the transmission down to the driveline shop this week to try and match the slip yoke.


Attachments:
File comment: There is now plenty of clearance between the engine and the steering universal joint.
s2.jpg
s2.jpg [ 169.04 KiB | Viewed 9068 times ]
File comment: Preping to pull the engine, the new wider rack is in place.
s1.jpg
s1.jpg [ 151.3 KiB | Viewed 9055 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 49 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY