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PostPosted: March 29, 2009, 1:25 pm 
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FWIW, I got the 7.5 pumpkin and axles for $150.
Check at www.car-part.com for local availability.

Moti

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PostPosted: March 29, 2009, 5:50 pm 
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Hank,

I picked my 76 Pinto/Mustang II spindles up at a pull apart place for $40 for the pair. Cleaning them up was a chore but well worth the $200 I saved. BTW, I'm copying RacerAl also. He has a pretty clean build.

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PostPosted: March 29, 2009, 10:35 pm 
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So I'm pondering the transmission tunnel design on the car, and it starts to dawn on me, I'm building a BEC, theres no transmission to speak of, so the upward angle of the tunnel tubes toward the front is not essential at all. I can leave it at an 8 inch height from one end to the other, and then do some fabbing on the console to make it work for me. Cupholders and an onboard PC are 2 critical elements of this build. Critical.

Having that level shelf of the tunnel under the dash sure leaves alot of possibilities for the electronics.
Have to think on it some more, but I'm pretty sure I'm ditching the upward slope thing in favor of the fabbed console.


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PostPosted: March 29, 2009, 11:28 pm 
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You're going in the wrong direction here, and that's because you don't have motor or the diff mounted.
It's pretty useless to design the tunnel before you know where the driveshaft is going.

Moti

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PostPosted: April 1, 2009, 8:58 am 
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Grrr....
Won an auction on ebay last night for an R1 motor. It didn't have any real details, year, miles, if it was running or not....but it was listed at $250, no bids, no reserve. It was backed by the PayPal guarantee, so I figured...$250? Why not roll the bones and see what we get. So I bid...and I win!

Pretty excited....this engine was like a box of chocolates, no idea what I was gonna get, but the one thing I wasn't expecting to get was an email from the lame a$$ed seller telling me that he was backing out because he wanted more than $250 for the engine. WTF?!?

Having a hard time finding a new crate engine online for comparison to the ones I'm seeing on ebay for around $2500 with under 1000 miles on them. Might just call the stealership today and see what they have to say about the advantages of buying new. My guess is "none", but I'll look into it anyway. ( Have I mentioned my somewhat unlimited budget for this project? :D )


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PostPosted: April 1, 2009, 12:23 pm 
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i dont know if you seen mine for sale in the classified section here?its a 2003 and very complete kit.its on ebay right now and i have an offer for 1100.if it falls through i can post back and let you know.my seller name on bay is 123takalo if you care to take a look.


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PostPosted: April 1, 2009, 12:50 pm 
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Plan to pay around 900-1400 depending on the motor, the accessories, and the mileage...

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PostPosted: April 1, 2009, 2:17 pm 
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CodeStar wrote:
Grrr....
Won an auction on ebay last night for an R1 motor. It didn't have any real details, year, miles, if it was running or not....but it was listed at $250, no bids, no reserve. It was backed by the PayPal guarantee, so I figured...$250? Why not roll the bones and see what we get. So I bid...and I win!

If you're planning on registerig your car for street use you'll want an engine that has a bill of sale and all to prove that it isn't stolen.
That's at least how it works in CA, I bet other states take precautions to.

Moti

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PostPosted: April 1, 2009, 2:19 pm 
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CodeStar wrote:
Pretty excited....this engine was like a box of chocolates, no idea what I was gonna get, but the one thing I wasn't expecting to get was an email from the lame a$$ed seller telling me that he was backing out because he wanted more than $250 for the engine. WTF?!?


He is legally obligated to sell you the engine for $250. You both entered a contract for that amount. There are many ways to settle it, from the easy bad feedback to suing for the engine (you would win BTW)


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PostPosted: April 1, 2009, 2:51 pm 
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UPDATE: Yamaha no longer sells crate engines according to the dealership. In case anyone was wondering.


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PostPosted: April 1, 2009, 7:59 pm 
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Try some local cycle salvage places. They will usually give you some sort of warranty and you'll be able to get all of the parts required to run the engine in the car. Additionally, you'll also get legitimate paperwork for registration like Moti mentioned.

You may even be able to hear the engine run before its removed from the bike...definitely a plus.

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PostPosted: April 1, 2009, 9:21 pm 
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FYI there's a bike junk yard in Phoenix called Bobs. Sometimes there a bit over priced though. Your best bet is ebay, bike forums, or make frields with someone at a place that buys used bikes at auction. They can get partial bikes, crashed bikes, and complete bikes.

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PostPosted: April 2, 2009, 12:14 pm 
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kmt63 wrote:
i dont know if you seen mine for sale in the classified section here?its a 2003 and very complete kit.its on ebay right now and i have an offer for 1100.if it falls through i can post back and let you know.my seller name on bay is 123takalo if you care to take a look.


the motor kit sold yesterday on ebay for 1230.00


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PostPosted: April 2, 2009, 12:39 pm 
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Hey Hank, did you get a chance to fix those welds on the side?

Moti

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PostPosted: April 4, 2009, 10:44 am 
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Moti,
I bought a new Miller 140 a couple weeks ago and gave been grinding out and replacing a few welds here and there. My technique has definitely improved over time.

Heading down to the junkyard in about 10 minutes to go pick up my Thunderbird SC rear end, ended up costing $240, but from what I saw, it was in pretty good shape. Looks like the 1990 Thunderbird SC had "Traction-Loc" on it, don't know if that's marketing babble, or something that proved to be significant. In any case, it will be here in the garage within hours, and I guess we will see from there.


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