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We need more details on this! That adapter looks fantastic for something made with those tools.

I was able to get info on the engine and bell housing from the man that did the Miada build that I double checked and drew up in CAD. Then after printing full size on four sheets of paper I transferred points to the aluminum measured everything again and drilled. One reason it looks good is I used a file and beltsander on the outside, and I have not been keeping track of my time, (maybe two full days of metal work). The project is as much the enjoyment of working on the parts as getting the thing done.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

PM sent

Since I weighed the chassis a few tubes in the transmission tunnel and the rear suspension brackets. I am now working on the front suspension points and I thought I would share some photos of the slow progress. I uploaded my suspension geometry in the running gear area hoping for some criticism on the point locations but all was quiet, that hopefully means there OK because my front points are positioned were the bolt will go through the uprights as you car see in the pictures. The left side is half done and I'll have to finish next week as my work is to far to commute.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

Very innovative, thanks for sharing.

Mark

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Mark Conley
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5947

This is a very clean and pretty mounting position, but are you going to strengthen around this pivot? Is this standard .065 1" tubing?

Either way, its a very beautiful and innovative mounting position; that I may have to borrow.

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You can build your car:
1. Fast
2. Cheap
3. Reliable
Pick any two.

You're using spherical rod ends everywhere, right? Non-axial "bushings" will bind - only rod ends will work with what you've done here.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

I was not going to add anything but weld around the tube as the inside and outside of the upright is affected very little and most of the bending force will be in that direction.
And yes I am using spherical rod ends.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

After posting the last reply I looked back and find my lower front point is removing half of the inner side of the upright so I will weld a doubler there.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

Mind you the lateral forces on that thin bar while cornering and braking, where a possible 50% of the weight of the vehicle may be on one wheel, will significantly stress that point on the frame inward. Maybe end a triangulation directly behind the pivot to keep it from flexing and possibly breaking. With a weld there, the heat affected zone will weaken some of the surrounding metal, so I would reinforce the area; both on the upper and lower mounts. 5 pounds of metal is worth not having the risk of destroying that tube in a hard corner and possibly causing a wreck.

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You can build your car:
1. Fast
2. Cheap
3. Reliable
Pick any two.

Yes, I will lay some steel on the inside of those uprights. I’m not convinced that more triangulation in that area is necessary as on the book chassis the brackets are welded to the same area and wouldn’t the heat have the same effect on the tubes? Please keep the criticism (Good and Bad) coming I appreciate any comments.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

Yes the brackets are welded to the same area, but the brackets have an entire 1"x1"x.065" tube behind them. You have a little less than half of that strength in each direction(think pushing the control arm in or our of the chassis, to replicate cornering forces).
I would put a corner gusset from the vertical tube right behind your control arm mount, to the horizontal brace tube.

If you don't do the gusseting/triangulation, at least weld in some extra steel as you said around the pivot as a reinforcement.

_________________
You can build your car:
1. Fast
2. Cheap
3. Reliable
Pick any two.

When I get back home this weekend I’ll have to look and think about the best way (bad word) an acceptable way to strengthen that area which will be strapping at the least.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

I'm not sure if I pulled a Hempy or need to coin a new phrase. But after welding up all the tubes around the differential I found it was almost imposable to install, and will not go in at all when the panels go on.
This is from using as much of the Gibbs plans as possible with a none book differential when I should have done a complete redesign. Anyway, more changes (and weight) to the rear. I think I will put a bolt on strap across the top of the 1x2s go get some strength back. Here are some pixs of the front and rear.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

I was wondering if there is any chance i could get the info off you for the transmisson apdater