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PostPosted: August 13, 2012, 1:28 pm 
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Location: Reno, Nv
Got my wheels/tires from the Tire Rack a couple of days ago.
4 16x7 Sparco Assetto Gara not the lightest at 16.6lb but not bad
4 205/50ZR16 Sumitomo HTR Z II not the best but should last on a light car.
Totaled $751.00 not to bad.


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PostPosted: August 19, 2012, 11:36 pm 
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Location: Reno, Nv
I went to the Pick n Pull in Redding, CA last week while I was working up there for some steering shaft parts as my simple straight line run is going to be in the way of the exhaust header. After cutting and splicing and making a plastic bushing it's almost almost done.
Attachment:
IMG_0029.JPG
Attachment:
IMG_0030.JPG

While there I picked up an other oil pan as I'm thinking to get the car running I may no go with the dry sump system just yet. I also scored a Lucus MGB wiper system.
Attachment:
IMG_0031.JPG
Attachment:
IMG_0032.JPG

Does anybody know what the numbers mean.


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PostPosted: August 20, 2012, 7:36 am 
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First line is the Lucas Part number

2nd line says it is a 14 watt motor and that the wipers park to the left (proper for LH drive cars and easy enough to remedy if it parks wrong)

3rd line 1st 2 numbers I can't determine in the photo might be day/month or just the week, last number "78" is manufacturing year 1978.

4th line is some other part number.

BTW std brake line will work for custon length cable tubes with a partial flare.

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PostPosted: August 20, 2012, 7:52 am 
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Thanks Chuck
I've got to get some aluminum sheeting for the shuttle and get that covered before I get to involved in the wipers but it's nice to know there to get the answers. I worked on the car a good portion of the week end and am excited again in getting it done. That's definitely a good thing. :)

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PostPosted: August 28, 2012, 4:21 pm 
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Well as often happens in the Locost community after looking at the cost I decided to go with what I had on hand and I'm using some stainless steel for the shuttle.
Attachment:
IMG_0035.JPG

I am using a method from this forum ( I can't remember who was the first ) to make the step for the front. Were you weld some strips to your vice and use it to form the step.
Attachment:
IMG_0033.JPG
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IMG_0034.JPG

I also wanted to show the parts I received from Jack so far. The taillights look very nice, good quality and the fuel tank will work though the tank has a slight taper and is 9" at the top but 9.5" at the bottom and were I am putting it I have 9.25" at the bottom so I will have to lift it about an inch.
Attachment:
IMG_0029 (1).JPG
Attachment:
IMG_0030 (1).JPG
Attachment:
IMG_0031 (1).JPG

On a side note can any one tell me the angle they set there windshield? My best guess is between 65deg and 70deg (or 25deg and 20deg from vertical ). Is that about right?


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PostPosted: August 29, 2012, 12:54 am 
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MYTF wrote:
On a side note can any one tell me the angle they set there windshield? My best guess is between 65deg and 70deg (or 25deg and 20deg from vertical ). Is that about right?


Just use a piece of cardboard and set the angle where you think you like it best, it is what I did.
In my case it worked out to 64 degrees

Al


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PostPosted: August 30, 2012, 8:23 pm 
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Location: Reno, Nv
I got the shuttle semi installed, I need to get some screws to lock down the front but the sides are clamped to the frame. I laid out the windshield and am working on the side supports.
Attachment:
IMG_0027.JPG
Attachment:
IMG_0028.JPG

My nose showed up from Jack and I'm pleased with the quality :D :D
I am going to have to raise it an inch as my engine is taller then normal. That places the bottom about 5/8" above the bottom front of the frame


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PostPosted: August 30, 2012, 11:36 pm 
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Quote:
the tank has a slight taper and is 9" at the top but 9.5" at the bottom


Hi John, I fixed my SketchUp model of the tank with this info. I'd like to put in the indentations for the locating straps too. would you mind measuring how deep, wide and far from the end of the tank they are? I took some guesses but it would be better to know...

Thanks.

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PostPosted: August 31, 2012, 1:26 am 
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Thanks for looking in horizenjob.

The indentations are 5/16" deep 1 1/4" wide and 12 1/2" apart and centered which puts them 5 3/4" from the edge to center of indentation. By the way the tank is tapered in length 24" at the top and 24 5/8" at the bottom.

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PostPosted: September 3, 2012, 10:01 am 
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Disappointment yesterday i got the nose in position and moved on to making some brackets for the radiator that I hoped would fit but no go it's 1 inch to tall to fit in the nose. :BH: :BH: :BH:
The radiator is out of a '65' ford ranchero with a 260c.i. engine that I got from my son that thing looks small to me and it dose fit in the nose but not with the nose in the correct position. :oops:
Dejected I came in the house and went e-baying and ordered up a civic 3 row radiator. As the radiator brackets are on hold today I will try to tackle the headers. We'll see how that goes. :roll: Pixs to follow

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PostPosted: September 3, 2012, 9:46 pm 
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I spent all day and didn't get much done. I was going to use 3/8 plate for the header flanges but all I could find was 1/4 and 1/2 inch so I went with the 1/2 inch. Of course with my not so smooth handling of the torch the smoothing process went on and on and I'm still not done.


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PostPosted: September 10, 2012, 4:19 pm 
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Worked on the exhaust some more. I had some trouble getting the pipe into the cutouts so I made a forming die (I guess that's what it is?) to get the pipe into the right shape and size.
Attachment:
Lotus7 003a.JPG
I also spent some time with the collectors. I lined up the pipe at a 12deg. angle to the radial arm saw (I don't have a cutoff saw) made a cut then rotated the pipe 60deg. and cut again to get the proper angle.
Attachment:
Lotus7 004a.JPG
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Lotus7 005a.JPG
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Lotus7 006a.JPG
Attachment:
Lotus7 007a.JPG
There is a good write up on this at http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2787713 that I followed some what.

It appears that for some reason I can't upload any pictures right now? I will try later.


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Last edited by MYTF on September 11, 2012, 4:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 11, 2012, 7:29 am 
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Location: Victoria, Australia
MYTF wrote:
I am using a method from this forum to make the step for the front. Were you weld some strips to your vice and use it to form the step.


Hi,

I was wondering if you know, who was the 1st to post on how to do the scuttle?

If not, could you please explain the process.

Thanks for any help.

Anthony


Last edited by Mixdup on September 11, 2012, 10:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 11, 2012, 1:45 pm 
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The first that's a tough one. As far as how to do it, I looked through a lot of build logs and picked out ideas from the ones that suited me. The first step is to determine the height you need/want, from that I built the frame for the dash then the fire wall out of steel strips (I tried some 1 inch angle but there are compound curves, DON'T USE ANGLE. For the cover aluminum sheet would have been much easier but as the saying goes us what you've got. Some have made it so that the shuttle can be removed like the fiberglass ones I did not but my cover will be removable, this works for me. the best advise I have is look through as many build logs as possible and glean ideas from them.
The easiest is to buy a fiberglass one from Jack.

edit
I just realized you might want to know about the the shoulder forming method. Please excuse the crude drawing but I welded some 1/8" strips to the jaws as shown you place the sheet in and tighten the vice and presto chango you have a shoulder.
Attachment:
Vice break.png


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PostPosted: September 24, 2012, 9:53 pm 
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Got my radiator mounted today. I had to shift it to the drivers side for the radiator outlet to clear the frame, but now I have room for a oil cooler if I want to. I just have room in front for a fan.
Attachment:
IMG_0008.JPG
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IMG_0009.JPG
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IMG_0010.JPG
Attachment:
IMG_0013.JPG
Attachment:
IMG_0011.JPG


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