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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 23, 2009, 12:57 pm 
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Location: Northridge, CA
1/8" should be plenty, I didn't even use that for my suspension brackets, I went with 14 gauge.

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PostPosted: April 12, 2009, 5:49 pm 
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Location: Reno, Nv
I've been working out of town and haven't got much done here are some more pics. I picked up my engine a Mazda KL-DE 2.5L V6 that I measured three times and still not correctly as it is taller then expected. I will build a dry sump system for it to get it to 23in. tall.
The mounts for the roll bar are installed, I didn't have any thin steel at the time so I lightened it with some holes. The hand brake and front diff brackets are in I hope they are strong enough? Any comments would be helpful.
Leaving on vacation with the wife for two weeks so no more fun with the 7


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PostPosted: April 12, 2009, 5:56 pm 
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I like the direction this build is going. It's good to see someone using a V6 that didn't come from a pickup truck. :D Nice looking fab work too!

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PostPosted: April 20, 2009, 6:20 pm 
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Hey. I am an old Ford Probe guy myself, and have owned 4 cars with the KL. I was considering using a KL until I heard that they have oiling problems when used in a RWD setup. Others have done it, but you may want to look into what had to be done to make it suitable.

Looking at your build so far, I have no doubt you know what you are doing, just pointing it out unless no one else did.

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PostPosted: April 26, 2009, 12:01 pm 
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Sorry for the late reply I just got back from vacation. I've done some research on the oiling problem and my uneducated opinion is that the problem is from the shape of the oil pan that's why some add an extra quart of oil. My hope to solve this and lower the engine by going with a dry sump.

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PostPosted: April 28, 2009, 9:04 pm 
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I'm following this build very closely, I had considered it's smaller brother for my build when I was in planning stage... a 2.0L V6 D-Mod Se7en could have been fun...

I love the sound of the 2.5L...

Keeps us posted on your progress, I agree with the dry sump route... I'm looking forward on how you will set it up..

Cheers,

fred


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PostPosted: June 28, 2009, 1:44 am 
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Well it'sbeen along time with one thing after another stopping my work on my car. Before I can finish the tubing in the engine bay I wanted to have the engine/transmission together. and I finally built my adapter today and thought some may like a look. I don't have the flywheel yet so I made a piece to line up the transmission input shaft. I also made my drysump pan, extra points for pointing out the problem with the pan.


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PostPosted: June 30, 2009, 7:22 pm 
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Location: Garland, TX
Are you gonna use the RX7 flywheel/bellhousing and Miata transmission like the Miata conversion? How are you gonna do the drysump system?

Thanks,
GW


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PostPosted: July 3, 2009, 1:34 am 
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I'm planning on using the RX-7 transmission w/bellhousing and a RX-7 after market flywheel with a home made adapter though the flywheel from the V6 is the same diameter. I will have to do some more investigating on the flywheel front. As for the drysump, when I get closer to the engine install I hope to find a used pump and reduce it to two stage as I have a pickup front and rear for scavenge and will use the stock engine pump for pressure.
This weekend I hope to set the engine/trans. in and finish the engine bay tubing.

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PostPosted: July 3, 2009, 1:40 am 
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Looking good.

How did you make the adapter? Mill?

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PostPosted: July 3, 2009, 10:27 am 
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Boy I wish I had a mill! No, the tools used were a drill press for holes and to line up taps, a wood cuting bandsaw, belt sander, and a wood router to counter sink for bolt heads.

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PostPosted: July 3, 2009, 11:11 am 
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MYTF wrote:
...I will build a dry sump system for it to get it to 23in. tall...

What about the transmission bellhousing? They typically hang down as far as the pan, then there's also the OD of the flywheel.

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PostPosted: July 3, 2009, 11:36 am 
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MYTF wrote:
Boy I wish I had a mill! No, the tools used were a drill press for holes and to line up taps, a wood cuting bandsaw, belt sander, and a wood router to counter sink for bolt heads.


I like that even more. There is hope for anyone hoping to mate a different transmission to an engine.

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PostPosted: July 3, 2009, 6:58 pm 
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The wet sump was about 1.5" lower then the bellhousing now the dry sump is just above the bellhousing but just as important I have confidents of the engine getting oil with any kind of driving.

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PostPosted: July 26, 2009, 3:29 am 
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I was able to get the engine location figured out and installed the last of the diaginals in the engine bay and am welding up all the tubing. I releasted the frame from the table and weighed it 122 lbs.


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