LocostUSA.com

I can't post Autocad files here so send me a personal message with your e-mail address and I will send you the Autocad files.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

I can’t believe it’s been a month and a half since my last post though my work has kept me pretty busy. Anyway I have taken the frame off the build table, built a 1” lower angle and tube support under the transmission and along side the engine and cut the tube that runs under the bellhousing to lower the engine.
I cut down the steering rack and mounted it. Trimmed and mounted my seats but am unhappy with them so I will probably get something else.
I bought two pinto motor mounts from NAPA for $38 and finally got the engine/transmission mounted today and am setting up the steering shaft to clear the future headers.
I picked up a two stage dry sump pump that came from a formula ford for $136 and I think I’ll build an aluminum pan to replace the steel one as I’m to happy with that either.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

Well done. You could add a few lightening holes with a hole saw in the flanges and clip a couple corners on the base plate on the mounts if you want to make them works of art.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

The problem with asymmetry

I am laying out my dash and I can’t figure how to get the top and bottom to look good as the transmission tunnel is offset to the right. Any ideas?

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

I think you'd either want to move the gauges over and center the whole thing in the offset area, or make sure the offset is really obvious so doesn't just look 'off'. If that makes sense.

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-nate
www.clowar.com

My RX-7 Locost Build:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7458

Ditto on center the cluster over the trans tunnel. Make the oval large enough not to obscure any cluster indications, then add fillers around the panel to make the cluster appear oval (green).

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Move the cluster in front of the driver.

Thanks for all your replies

I can't it won't fit.


I love that idea! Always had a soft spot for the ellipse.
I'm going to work on that, if I can't get that to work I'll try the large offset method.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

No work today so I worked on the dash. I'm using some 3/8 sch40 stainless pipe and I could not get the tight bends and it's not quite even but I think it looks OK.

I also switched the steering to above the frame and I was able to retain the tilt though it is upside down.

Someone on the list was conserned about the speedo cable so I thought I better check. It looks like with a 1in. bulge in the panel I won't have a problem.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

That looks good and even; much better than the shape of the cluster.

Did you make the black boot on the tilt lever?

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Actually that's the end of the existing lever. I just cut it and moved it over and down.
My thinking on the gages is to use what I have and later spend the money and get some good ones. With the dash split I can just make a new section for the gages.
Awhile ago I modified my seats to fit but I'm not sure if i will use them as they are not the same style. I was able to retain the tilt on the drivers side without the spring but there is not much room for the belts.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

No work means no money so I'm adjusting the build schedule a little.
I picked up some free 20 ga. stainless steel and thought I would use some for the floor. I know, I know it's to thin but I think I can make it work. I made a couple of forming tools, one for putting some creases to add a little stiffness and a flanging tool for holes.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

I could never make money at this! I've been working on my dash and thought I should post some pics.
I'm working on the gage panel now and will post on the soon I hope.
I'm not sure about the engine turned stainless for the panels they will probably be to bright and I might paint them in the future.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

I have an engine turned stainless dash in my car and its not that bad.

Ralph

Wow. Just awesome. I'm pretty jealous right now. I like the collar on the steerwheel. How'd you make the rounded bevel when its also bending the other way (does that make sense?)

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-nate
www.clowar.com

My RX-7 Locost Build:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7458