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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 4, 2010, 3:04 am 
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Location: Reno, Nv
I had some old aluminum irrigation pipe. I just cut a piece and hammered it over a buck till the end shrank enough.

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I have an engine turned stainless dash in my car and its not that bad.


I'm glad I hope to put some Smith gages in the center but for now just the doner gages will have to do.
Work on them tomorrow.

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PostPosted: February 4, 2010, 10:08 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Hey TF-
I've got a set of Smith's gauges from my MGB in my garage. I can't vouch for them working, but if ya want 'em, pay the freight, they're yours. PM me if you like.
JDK

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PostPosted: February 4, 2010, 12:50 pm 
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Joined: February 21, 2008, 1:36 pm
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Hi there, I love your dash, its nice to see something so creative. Could you describe how you acheived the circular finish. Is it called scratch brushing? I assume you have a something like a 3m scotch lock sanding disk in a grinder and you place it on the surface and move on. If so what grit did you use, how much pressure did you use, did you place the sanding disc flat or use just the edge and finally did you draw lines to keep the center placement of the tool even

keep up the great work!

Cheers

Ryan


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PostPosted: February 4, 2010, 2:50 pm 
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Joined: April 15, 2009, 7:41 pm
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I like the way you didn't just go in horizontal lines with the engine turning. :cheers:


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PostPosted: February 4, 2010, 4:03 pm 
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Location: Reno, Nv
GonzoRacer, I'll get back to you shortly on the gages.

yan6, It's called "Engine Turning", I did use a 3m scotch pad (course, grit unknown) that I mounted on my drillpress. You can use a sanding disk or a wire brush which I tried but I didn't have one that was big enough. The pad is applied flat and moved 1/2 the diameter always from left to right (or right to left) then move down 1/2 the diameter. I don't know if that makes any sense I will try and take some pics of the setup I used and post later today.

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PostPosted: February 4, 2010, 9:59 pm 
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I took some pics of my setup
The wire brush is about 1" diameter so I marked the edge every 1/2" (hard to see there in red) and used a mark on the fence for alignment.
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Then the fence was moved back 1/2" (from 4 1/2" to 5") and to the right 1/2"
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In this example I went from left to right and here is what you get.
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You have to experiment with the speed and pressure of the brush to get some consistency.
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PostPosted: February 4, 2010, 11:40 pm 
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Thank you for the outstanding explanation. I am going to have to play with this.

Cheers

Ryan


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PostPosted: February 5, 2010, 9:21 pm 
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Another 'tool' to use for engine turning is the suction cup on a stick used for valve grinding (if people still use these things). Cut the thick end of the handle off so you can chuck it in the drill press and follow the same procedure as for the scotch brite pad above, but load the suction cup with valve grinding compound. (I will admit that it's nearly 40 years since I last ground valves, so forgive me if you can't buy this stuff anymore)


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PostPosted: February 5, 2010, 10:19 pm 
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Always Moore!
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That stuffs still available (albeit it no one in the parts store knows that they're used for..you just have to look).

I picked up a set of tools and compound a few months back from Advance Auto. :)

I later found out Harbor Freight has the valve lapping tool set for ~1/2 the price of the same made-in-China one from Advance.

BTW that dash looks great MYTF. Very nice work on the curved tubes and the actual dash.

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PostPosted: February 5, 2010, 11:21 pm 
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Joined: July 14, 2008, 9:07 pm
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Location: SW FL
Just Awesome!
Thanx for the idea for beading the floors. I need to fab some panels for a Dart project and that is a perfect and easy method that I will be PROUD to abscond with :-)
Your dash panel looks ABSOLUTELY Fantastic... WOWWWWWWWWW!!!
Personally, I would not do anything to it until I've proven to myself that it is too bright (you should be wearing cool shades or driving goggles anyhow). Even then, if it does need to be toned down, don't do anything that would obscure the engine turning, maybe clearcoat tinted with charcoal gray, like trying to get a "smoked" appearance.
Mike Bynum


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PostPosted: February 6, 2010, 12:33 am 
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dodgedartgt wrote:
Just Awesome!
.............
Personally, I would not do anything to it until I've proven to myself that it is too bright (you should be wearing cool shades or driving goggles anyhow). Even then, if it does need to be toned down, don't do anything that would obscure the engine turning, maybe clearcoat tinted with charcoal gray, like trying to get a "smoked" appearance.
Mike Bynum


Maybe you want to be the first with a Turned-Anodized finish dashboard.
Any dark color would look "not shiny" enough.


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PostPosted: February 6, 2010, 12:46 am 
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I've also heard of using a wood dowel with grinding compound. Those methods might be better as I had trouble getting the center of the disk to score the plate.

As far as tinting the panels I think a light tone (more like clear with just a light color) would probably be best but I'm leaving them as is for now.

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PostPosted: February 18, 2010, 12:12 am 
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I've been doing some things out of order but moving forward slowly.
I picked up some plastic for the cluster and got it mounted.
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I'm in the process of prefitting the tunnel sheets. It's thin at 20 gauge with a pebble finish. Thinking of something for backing between the tubes to stiffen thinks up if needed.
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I had to beat out a bulge for the speedometer.
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PostPosted: February 18, 2010, 4:29 pm 
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Do you have any "wider" shots that show the whole dash? It looks great!

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PostPosted: February 18, 2010, 8:27 pm 
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I posted a picture of the dash without the gauges but not with so here is the face and back.
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Right now I'm working on the top of the tunnel and trying to decide on the screws to use.

PS I just received some older Smith gauges from GonzoRacer for free! :D WHAT A FORUM :D :D :D

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