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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: April 5, 2009, 10:55 pm 
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Congratulations on your find :D
Al

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PostPosted: April 7, 2009, 12:26 pm 
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Well, here it is..lets see if I can get it clean enough to work with. (It's really not that bad. I've seen way worse) Now I just need some chrome.


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PostPosted: April 11, 2009, 3:18 pm 
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I finished cleaning the transmission this morning. You can touch it anywhere but inside the bellhousing. Even that is way cleaner, but you never get that totally clean unless you vat it. And it would just get dirty again.

Next is the engine. Pretty much have all of the extranious crap off of it. I want to hurry up and start my tunnel. But I'm at empass until I get the motor clean. I'll be so happy when I reach the point where I can work on the car and eat a sandwich at the same time. Right now I feel like I need to shower before I get a drink of water.

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PostPosted: April 16, 2009, 9:29 pm 
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My shifter arrived UPS today. The mounting plate fits but there's one minor problem. I forgot that the Camaro T-5 is canted something like 17 degrees towards the driver and the S-10 isn't. Hence, speed shifting with a passenger could be somewhat hazardous for the passenger. I'm sure this is just a minor design issue. I think if I shorten the shifter 4-5 inches it won't be so pronounced. And alot less prone to going up the riders pantleg.

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PostPosted: April 16, 2009, 9:42 pm 
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I think if you are using a '91 S10 transmission you will have to make a remote shifter similiar to the one I have made for my own '93 Sonoma trans.
Al

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PostPosted: April 16, 2009, 10:23 pm 
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How well does it work? Mike Gibson has a pretty slick he made for a Camaro T-5 (I think) but I don't think it will work for the S-10. On his, the shifter is at the back of the tailshaft. Do you have more pics of yours? Will the shift lever be cut off.

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PostPosted: April 16, 2009, 10:52 pm 
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I originally made a few tries at adapting one to the back of the transmission, but it did not really work smoothly, 1 to 2 might work fine but 2 to 3 would not, so I eventually didn't bother and sort of naturally migrated to the existing one which works quite well, or at least quite well for a car not road tested yet.
A photo of one my first attempts.
Al
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PostPosted: April 16, 2009, 11:05 pm 
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Hey Dan..I know nothing about GM tranny's, but I do know a displaced Tulsan...Wayne Evans. This is is website
http://texaslocost.homestead.com/Remoteshifter.html
Wayne has moved to Colorado recently. He used a T-5 from a Camaro mated to a Quad 4.
His site might give you some shifter ideas...He is a real nice guy.
Joe Garrison


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PostPosted: April 16, 2009, 11:08 pm 
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Here a few more photos of the one I am going with now. I used a couple of 3/4 inch bearings and a piece of 3/4DD shaft I had sitting around and in the Locost tradition drilled out an old trailer ball for a shift knob and screwed it on to a Grade eight bolt. The whole thing is attached to the underside of the tunnel. Quite cheap to make and seems to work nice and smooth. The shifter does not have a rolling arc to it like a regular shifter just a short forward motion to 1st about half inch and then a straight back shift to second, maybe an inch back from first.
Al



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PostPosted: April 17, 2009, 7:48 am 
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Joe here are pictures of the difference between the Camaro T-5 and the S-10. See where the shifter sits. Thats what make the S-10 a little more difficult to deal with. The shifter Mike Gibson came up with is simple, clean and looks like it will work very well. I'm just not sure how to adapt it to the different location and the fact that there is alot of aluminum in the way.

First is the S-10, then the Camaro. The S-10 is probably 8 inches more forward that the Camaro.


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PostPosted: April 17, 2009, 8:35 am 
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I posted this a few months ago. It is remote, external to keep the dirt out, maintains the correct leverage, and is simple to make.

It consists of 1/2" tubing, a rod end at the bottom of the shifter, a few plastic bushings (turned from 3/4" rod of uhmw), and 1/8"x1" steel strip.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on April 17, 2009, 8:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: April 17, 2009, 8:44 am 
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Please help me...my left brain isn't working this morning so I can't put that drawing in perspective. Do you have a pic?

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PostPosted: April 17, 2009, 9:02 am 
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I have no pic, but I'll try to explain. This is exactly the way a shifter on a Ford Aspire or Festiva works.

The blue rod has the U shape on both ends. The forward end fits around the stock shifter base (grey) on the T5. Just like a ujoint, it allows the rod to pivot vertically freely but rotation of the blue shaft causes rotation at the shifter base. It forces the base to tilt. It must use bushings, not spherical bearings.

The rear end fits onto the new shifter in the same manner.

The spherical bearing (light blue) at the base of the new shifter allows the new shifter to move around without binding. To have the same leverage as the stock shifter, the new shifter must have the same distance between the spherical bearing and the blue rod attachment point as the stock shifter does to the spherical bearing built into the base of the stock shifter and the blue rod attachment point.

For a shorter throw/high performance shifter, make the new shifter spherical bearing to blue rod attachment point distance longer by lowering the spherical bearing, leaving the shift knob and blue rod attachment in the correct location.

The knob can be a pool cue or "8" ball drilled for the 1/2" tube and epoxied on to the shaft.

The mount uses the stock shifter's (grey) two rear bolts. A lower link is also required for support, perhaps the small hole in the tail housing near the output shaft seal.

The drilled tabs are welded to the 1/2" tube, which is easy to heat and bend to shape.

It should be very light and strong.

Does this answer your question?


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 17, 2009, 12:39 pm 
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In my several attempts to come up with one I actually made a number of variations, the one in the drawing is very similiar to one of those attempts, two reasons I did not go with that particular one was that the shifter rod to the transmission will stick up above the console out in plain view, there is no effective way to drop it down under the console out of site.
You can attach the rod to the bottom of the S10 shifter, but it will take away any advantage of leverage to shift gears as it will attach to low down on the stock shifter.

The other problem was that if the rod was same height between cue ball and the stock shifter you need to apply a great deal of leverage to engage some of the gears especially 5th gear.
To eliminate this the closer the attaching rod to the shifter the more leverage you have.
In the one I settled on as the best, you can notice that the better or steeper the vertical rise off the end of my shift rod the better leverage I got to make a smooth and easy shift in all gears.

In simple terms it is like difference between driving your S10 truck and shifting with the shift knob (easy) or leaning down and grabbing the base of the shifter and then shifting gears (hard).

I tacked welded the clevis shown in the picture up and down the S 10 shifter handle and it was amazing how an half inch either way changed the shifting ease.

The concept in the drawing does work, but it is not smooth shifting equally between all six gears that you will use, there is a good difference in the amount of force required to go from 1 to 2 or out and up into 5th. No matter how I played the rod locations or how stiff I attached them my feeble test person (wife) would miss 5th about 60% of the time. The shifter was to balky overall.
In the end you really need to actually build one, all my paper designs looked equally good, in real practise they were not.

To be honest I would suggest just to wait until you are at that point of the build and then make your own designs and try them, cutting and tack welding bits of metal and such does not really take much time and in the end you get the one that is best for you.

Al

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PostPosted: April 17, 2009, 1:12 pm 
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I don't suppose anyone has seen one from a stalker. They use the S-10 with an extension.

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Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the
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