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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: September 30, 2018, 10:46 am 
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Nice looking car. I enjoyed the article and congrats on the registration. :cheers:

Another thumbs up for white paint, esp on composites.

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PostPosted: November 2, 2018, 10:19 am 
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The car looks great!!!

You mentioned that you used the Haynes Scuttle...which nose did you use?

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PostPosted: November 6, 2018, 9:13 pm 
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danderson wrote:
The car looks great!!!

You mentioned that you used the Haynes Scuttle...which nose did you use?



I used Jack's TTL nose. http://www.kineticvehicles.com/noses.html#ttl
If you look back a few pages in my build log you'll see how I modified it...……….added ~1.0" in height, a little bit on the length, and the mini splitter.

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PostPosted: November 23, 2020, 2:36 am 
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Awesome build, thanks for sharing!

I'm building a Locost based miata right now, and I'm having trouble finding a suitable ball joint for the upper a-arms. I tried to search this thread but couldn't find any info on what you used...
Judging by the pictures it looks like it's a steering ball joint?


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PostPosted: February 20, 2023, 5:27 pm 
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The car looks amazing and I hope you are spending some quality time behind the wheel!!

I have decided I want to make a carbon fiber bonnet for my car- just a wet layup part at this point. What materials and how many layers did you use on yours??

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PostPosted: February 23, 2023, 11:19 pm 
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Location: Missouri
danderson wrote:
The car looks amazing and I hope you are spending some quality time behind the wheel!!

I have decided I want to make a carbon fiber bonnet for my car- just a wet layup part at this point. What materials and how many layers did you use on yours??


Sorry for the complication but I went to some extreme measures to shed weight. The build is not for the faint of heart. My plan was to make it stiff where it was flat, and only along the curved areas enough to hold that shape. You can still flex the sides in the general acreage. I can give you more details if like.
Attachment:
Untitled presentation (1).jpg


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PostPosted: March 3, 2023, 3:22 pm 
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Posts: 57
Location: Easley, SC
Fizz wrote:
Awesome build, thanks for sharing!

I'm building a Locost based miata right now, and I'm having trouble finding a suitable ball joint for the upper a-arms. I tried to search this thread but couldn't find any info on what you used...
Judging by the pictures it looks like it's a steering ball joint?


Hey Fizz, I realize this comment was posted a couple of years ago, FWIW, here is how I dealt with my front UCA ball joint: I used a Miata replacement ball joint by Moog, and made a ball joint holder similar to some made for circle track cars which are typically larger and heavier. I plasma cut out a 1/4” steel plate, with a roughly sized hole . Then opened the hole in the plate with die grinder and file until it was a very close fit for a piece of pipe. I used 1 1/2” Schedule 80 NPS pipe. Miraculously, this was just about a perfect fit for gently pressing the splined Miata ball joint into it. So the pipe is beveled, welded and ground flush with the plate on top, fillet welded on the bottom , and the pipe length is cut so that in its welded position, it is the right length for installing the circlip (ring clip) furnished with the ball joint. Again it took a little planning in my cuts and some filing to get the length just right. And Bob’s your Uncle…… ball joint holder.
At final assembly and rough alignment one of the clevises (probably front) will be welded firm in one position. Both knurled tubes can still be adjusted for camber and caster. (If one Clovis is not welded , it would be a wobbly wonky mess)
Skidzzz


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PostPosted: March 3, 2023, 3:48 pm 
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Joined: September 27, 2019, 3:35 am
Posts: 7
Thank you very much!

I'm not finished with the frame yet, so l'll most certainly build something similar....


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PostPosted: March 6, 2023, 9:47 am 
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Joined: August 12, 2011, 1:46 pm
Posts: 90
skidzzz wrote:
At final assembly and rough alignment one of the clevises (probably front) will be welded firm in one position.


Or just a piece of threaded rod . If you cut the excess plate that'll leave more weld area, and save you a clevise .


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PostPosted: June 21, 2023, 10:30 pm 
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Joined: May 30, 2021, 10:48 am
Posts: 23
So have the ES2074R ball joints all disappeared, and we've all got to make things this way now?
I found them on rockauto, but they don't show up on MOOG's site that I can see. Rockauto says they're on "wholesaler closeout" and the price went up $6 overnight. That could make things a real pain.


Last edited by Davesax36 on June 22, 2023, 8:34 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: June 22, 2023, 4:17 am 
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skidzzz wrote:
Fizz wrote:
Awesome build, thanks for sharing!

I'm building a Locost based miata right now, and I'm having trouble finding a suitable ball joint for the upper a-arms. I tried to search this thread but couldn't find any info on what you used...
Judging by the pictures it looks like it's a steering ball joint?


Hey Fizz, I realize this comment was posted a couple of years ago, FWIW, here is how I dealt with my front UCA ball joint: I used a Miata replacement ball joint by Moog, and made a ball joint holder similar to some made for circle track cars which are typically larger and heavier. I plasma cut out a 1/4” steel plate, with a roughly sized hole . Then opened the hole in the plate with die grinder and file until it was a very close fit for a piece of pipe. I used 1 1/2” Schedule 80 NPS pipe. Miraculously, this was just about a perfect fit for gently pressing the splined Miata ball joint into it. So the pipe is beveled, welded and ground flush with the plate on top, fillet welded on the bottom , and the pipe length is cut so that in its welded position, it is the right length for installing the circlip (ring clip) furnished with the ball joint. Again it took a little planning in my cuts and some filing to get the length just right. And Bob’s your Uncle…… ball joint holder.
At final assembly and rough alignment one of the clevises (probably front) will be welded firm in one position. Both knurled tubes can still be adjusted for camber and caster. (If one Clovis is not welded , it would be a wobbly wonky mess)
Skidzzz


Very nice fab, but the only thing preventing the ubj plate from rotating with suspension loads is the clamping of the clevis bolts. That is why you see one side of similar plates as a welded stud. With both sides adjustable, the arm needs to be one piece instead of two threaded tubes free to swing forward and backward on the ucap sphericals.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: June 22, 2023, 4:20 am 
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Davesax36 wrote:
So have the ES2074R ball joints all disappeared, and we've all got to make things this way now?


ES2074R is only one mfgs part number. The same basic part has multiple part numbers. Look up the application to see what is available.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/maz ... d+end,7428

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: June 22, 2023, 8:37 am 
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Joined: May 30, 2021, 10:48 am
Posts: 23
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Davesax36 wrote:
So have the ES2074R ball joints all disappeared, and we've all got to make things this way now?


ES2074R is only one mfgs part number. The same basic part has multiple part numbers. Look up the application to see what is available.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/maz ... d+end,7428



Thanks, man. I'm an idiot and will go worry about something else now.


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PostPosted: August 21, 2023, 2:24 pm 
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Posts: 57
Location: Easley, SC
Hey Fizz, I realize this comment was posted a couple of years ago, FWIW, here is how I dealt with my front UCA ball joint: I used a Miata replacement ball joint by Moog, and made a ball joint holder similar to some made for circle track cars which are typically larger and heavier. I plasma cut out a 1/4” steel plate, with a roughly sized hole . Then opened the hole in the plate with die grinder and file until it was a very close fit for a piece of pipe. I used 1 1/2” Schedule 80 NPS pipe. Miraculously, this was just about a perfect fit for gently pressing the splined Miata ball joint into it. So the pipe is beveled, welded and ground flush with the plate on top, fillet welded on the bottom , and the pipe length is cut so that in its welded position, it is the right length for installing the circlip (ring clip) furnished with the ball joint. Again it took a little planning in my cuts and some filing to get the length just right. And Bob’s your Uncle…… ball joint holder.
At final assembly and rough alignment one of the clevises (probably front) will be welded firm in one position. Both knurled tubes can still be adjusted for camber and caster. (If one Clovis is not welded , it would be a wobbly wonky mess)
Skidzzz[/quote]

Very nice fab, but the only thing preventing the ubj plate from rotating with suspension loads is the clamping of the clevis bolts. That is why you see one side of similar plates as a welded stud. With both sides adjustable, the arm needs to be one piece instead of two threaded tubes free to swing forward and backward on the ucap sphericals.[/quote]

I guess that’s why I mentioned welding one clevis in place , to avoid the “wonky mess”. It seems a clevis welded to the plate would be similar to the effect of a stud welded to the plate. My thoughts were that I could wait until final fitment of the whole front suspension assembly, aligning to the planned caster, then weld the perimeter of the clevis in position rather than guessing what the angle should be.
I’m sure a lot of trial and error must have gone into some of these circle track ball joint carriers to decide the optimal position of the threaded stud. But that’s not necessarily what I’ll need for my configuration. I was just allowing myself more options as I zero in on the target geometry.
Cheers, Skidzzz

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