LocostUSA.com

I've been working on my locost a few years now, starting to get close to running, but not there yet. Here are some pics:





More images and previous build diary here: www.clowar.com

and the specs:

Chassis: Tubular steel triangulated space frame, based on the Locost "book" chassis, with some "Aussy mods"
Body: Fiberglass and Aluminium
NoseCone: COLD (www.canadianlocost.com)
Scuttle: Custom built

Donor Car: 1985 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE
Engine: Mazda 13b rotary -
HP: 145hp stock (before minor mods)
Transmission: 5-speed manual 1st gen RX-7
Rear Axle: 1st gen RX-7
Differential: Clutch-type LSD 3:90:1 final drive
Cooling System: Griffin Radiator and stock oil cooler.
Suspension: Unequal-length dual wishbone independent with QA1 coilovers. Live Rear Axle - four link + panhard bar
Exhaust: Racing Beat Pre-silencer and Universal Muffler

Wheels: ADR - 17X8
Tires: KUMAHO - 225/50/17

Gas Tank: Spun Aluminium

Brakes Front - 2nd gen RX-7 4-piston disc - 10 7/8"
Brakes Rear - 1st gen RX-7 disc - 10 1/8"

Weight: 1250 lbs (Estimated target weight…praying)
Dimensions:
Height: 39"
Length: 144"
Width: 68"
Wheelbase = 91.5"

Interior:
Seats - Mazda Miata (Passenger seat channeled to fit)
Instrumentation: Stock 1985 RX-7

-nate
www.clowar.com

Nice build. I get an error when attempting to look at the pics.

I guess your in Hawaii?

Hey, Nate, it's great to see that you're getting close, and the car looks great. Everyone's going to want to know where you got the pretty fuel tank.

Godspeed on the electricals!

Looking good!!!!!

I notice your upper rear tube is removable. Any thought on how you are going to skin the rear and keep it all together?

Some pics of the upper harness mounts would be appreciated. \

Chuck

Thanks for the kind words guys,

Miatav8 - Yup in Hawaii. What pictures didn't work for you? The ones posted here or on my site? I guess I should include the direct link to my gallery:
http://www.clowar.com/gallery/v/Locost/

Pete B - The tank is from Fiber-Tech in San Diego, which sells parts for offroad buggies, etc. Electrics...I know...wish me luck.

Chuck - That whole section is removable, the upper and lower tubes. I plan to skin it as a single piece. I have a 5/8" bolt that just slips into the ends of the tubes, and I need to drill through for a pin to hold it in place. The seat belt harnesses are attached using a section of tube. You can get it from Aircraft spruce by the foot and in the exact ID that u need. You may have better suppliers in your area, but for me I have to order almost everything.

Here are some more pics, if you want any more...let me know....







-nate

Got most of the exhaust finished up, still need some brackets to hang it from. Also getting the brakes ready to plumb, so had to install the new rotors that have been sitting in boxes for a long time. Here are some pics:






more pictures here:
http://www.clowar.com/gallery/v/Locost/Build/?g2_page=13

-nate

After completing the exhaust on my car, I know how much works go into this. Your job looks good. It looks like you used a std rx-7 silencer, modified a aftermarket header and added a nice lookin' SS muffler?

It looks like your muffler is in contact with the body panel. You may want to have at least 1" or more clearance. Things will move as the engine torques. A bit of clearance will keep the passenger comp't a bit cooler and reduce the scraping on your body panel.

Keep up the good work.

Chuck

Chuck, thanks.

I'm using the Racing beat presilencer and universal muffler. I built the header from pieces from racing beat too. In these pictures, the exhaust is leaning at an angle on the outside of the body. When I get it all finished there should be about an inch like you mentioned. First time the header brought it too close, so I re-did it.

Where did you get your rubber brackets for your exhaust? Also, is that the only place its hanging from or is there something there under the end of the "Y" collector??

-n

Note to self, do not change IE8 settings until AFTER you end the message! You will loose everything you just wrote.

OK now on to the message again.

Nate, I am just using a single rear hanger. Certainly the header needs no support. The clamp I am using to hold the muffler/silencer to the header does a great job in keeping everything in line. There is no motion whatsoever.

I didn't have a real plan. I just bought a couple of cheap, I mean lo-cost, brackets 'n stuf and figured I'd work out the details with the parts in hand. For the rubber hanger, I am using:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-35119/?image=large

For the steel hangers, I am using a pair of:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-35005/

I cut the last rt/angle bend off of both hangers and welded on a big ball of weld. This makes the parts "POP" into the rubber rather than trying to snake the hanger end through. I have seen this pop-connection made on some OEM installation years ago. ( I generally don't do muffler work anymore on my DD's). On one hanger, I reformed it to match the radius of the muffler and welded it into place. For the chassis mounted end, I just cut and welded the hanger to a triangular piece of 1/8" steel. This bracket is then bolted to the diagonal frame rail. When I skin my car, I will leave 2 holes in the Aluminium to allow these two mounting bolts to pass thru.

You could probably same a couple of $$ by dumpster diving at your local muffler shop. They may even sell you the parts new rather than paying shipping to HI. Since they were visible items on the Locost, I wanted mine to be new.

Hope this helps,

Chuck