LocostUSA.com

The hole is sans thread, so it would just be cutting new threads onto the bolt after machining the shoulder down to make the 1/2".

The thought had crossed my mind, but the same issue arose.. can threads be re-cut into a G8 Bolt? Without destroying the bolt, it's properties or the Die?

Any metallurgical masters out there want to chime in on this one? It is one of the better options if doable!

Thanks,

KS

_________________
Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein

Ahhh. I must have missed the part about the hole being sans thread.

In that case I would just drill the hole out to 5/8" dia and insert a piece of 16 ga 5/8" tube as a spacer and use a 1/2" bolt. I would add a tight-fitting grade 8 flat washer between the rod end and the casting to give the rod end more meat to seat against, eliminating the need to make the spacer to some exact length. Alternatively, you could use a tapered washer to get more freedom of motion.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I think you might have struck gold on that idea... But where do you find 16ga tubing? I've never heard it measured that way. Is that just 5/8 .0625 wall?

Thanks for the idea!! I'm off to find a 5/8 reamer!!

KS

_________________
Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein

I used the 16ga as a ref. From what I can tell, round tubing is spec'd as OD and wall thickenss.

Being a hammer-and-file machinist, I would try this:

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cf ... op_cat=197

ID is nominally .500 but not guaranteed or toleranced. The OD runs from .625-.630" and the wall is between .063-.067. Which gives an ID range of .491 - 504. Unless you are using AN bolts, the OD of the shaft area usually runs a few thou under nominal. This is close enough to TRY. Drill the casting using a 5/8 drill bit. If you have to, freeze the bushing and heat the casting to fit together. Or you could flap-sand the ID of the casting if necessary to get the bushing to fit. If it fits loosely, no biggie, the clamping action of the bolt is the main force. Then try to fit the 1/2" bolt thru the spacer, If necessary chase the ID of the bushing with a 1/2" drill. I don't think reamers are necessary. But that is just me.

Good luck.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Not sure if this will still be helpful to you, but I remember you asking about RWD VW tranny options earlier in your build.

http://www.tigersportscars.nl/Bellhousings.htm

I hit them up about their current status... just out of curiosity...

They reply promptly... They do have them available... and they will ship them!! Now are you holding on to your seats...

Here are the prices for stated adapters and parts to convert to a euro Ford Trans (it would still need additional machining to mate to a US T-5).. Flywheel incl starter ring, € 190,- Pressure cover 228mm €175,- organic drive plate to adapt ford box € 140,- hydr. Slave cylinder € 85,- Bellhousing incl bolts € 475,- shipping bellhouse only € 60,- bellhousing plus flywheel/clutch assy/hydr €120

So for a complete kit from them.. figuring in the daily exchange rate... which today is: $1.45 the complete cost of the housing, parts and shipping are... $1718.25!! But at least you get a custom cast bell housing.. with the Acme kit you only get a piece of steel with holes drilled into it for $500

Guess I won't be going that route.. definitely not "locost", but nice to know it's there!

KS

_________________
Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein

Those are some pretty ridiculous prices for the clutch. If it was me, I'd just get the bellhousing from them and source the other parts elsewhere. That'd leave you with $1000 to come up with the other parts locally or at least nationally, I'm sure you could get everything for that price.

Still not locost though...

On Jack's Locost build for the X-Prize, he shows how he made a pattern to have his bellhousing cast. Not sure it's a lot cheaper, but probably more fun, get to find a local foundry. Maybe have a couple of extra castings made, that is probably the cheap part, and then ebay them or share with another locoster or two?

Also it still seems easier to use a 5/8 rod end with a shim and leave the upright alone. Then shim the 14 mm bolt to the 5/8" rod end. I saw bushings on an oval track site to convert 5/8" to 1/2", someone local could whip these up for you from brass. Or perhaps one of our Locosters with a lathe would be happy to make you some if you bought them a couple of feet of brass stock. Brass is pretty, one of our guys would be happy to do this, I would guess...

In general threads on good fasteners are rolled on, not cut. Cut threads are nastier and lower quality because the cutting leaves sharp edges which start cracks. These threads would not be in much tension so it's not really an issue, but still. I would think they would be hard to cut in that type of a bolt too.

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

OK.. I have been stewing it over all day and I have come to a decision on many matters...

Rod End/Upright Attachment: I am going to drill out the upright (a la RX7Locosts idea), which is currently 14mm, to 5/8, sleeve it with a 5/8x.065 wall tube and run a 1/2" bolt through it. I'll use over-sized washers where applicable to help control slop. I decided to do it this way because, despite all the fantastic suggestions, this one has the least amount of cost and rework associated with it. I've decided to redo ALL the holes on the uprights this same way due to some small but worrisome slop in the lower mounting holes that I'd also like to eliminate and rather than buy ALL new RE and bungs and redo all the arms.. I'll use this method and bush them all at the same time in the same way and call it done.

Engine: I've had some changes to the plans here. Instead of the 20v 1.8t I will eventually graduate to, I'm going to use the less complicated (read cheaper) 8v 1.8 and bolt on the T3/T4 .58 I have in the garage. I was going to use this combo in my older VW Jetta before I sold it to finance this project, so it's a win/win. I will eventually get a 20v, the mountings are the same, so it's only a matter of timing (read finding a cheap deal!)! Oh.. did I mention that a I found a fully running, already pulled 1.8 for $175 bucks? Locally! Heading over to get it as soon as the owner gets home!

Engine/Trans Mounting: The costs of the ready made bellhousings and parts needed to adapt them to each other are looking a bit to pricey for anything I want to do. So putting my computer skills to use I researched a couple of different topics on the web and managed to find a group doing VW conversions to Toyota trucks with the 1.x Diesels (same block as the gas engines). They had a adapter plate and a pressure plate diagram to help in the conversion (Toy=>VW). So between the Adapter.. Pressure Plate.. and normal parts from there.. I have the final pieces to get the VW engine turned around the right way and bolted to this Toyota trans!!

Rims: I also managed to find a set of rims that I might keep.. not sold on them yet for the Locost.. for $119.. with Snow Tires. These will fit my Daily Driver so if I use them for the Locost or not they'll get used. Nitto Invos ARE NOT REPEAT NOT SNOW TIRES!!

It's been a heck of a week so far... and it's only Tuesday!! Lots of progress for so few bucks!! How can you miss!!

KS

_________________
Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein

how much were the adapter parts, and who's stuff are you using?

These 5/8" to 1/2" bushing cost 1 dollar:
http://www.circletracksupply.com/product.php?productid=960

The other ones I saw, maybe from Speedway motors, were a press fit and would be better. A few minutes with Google will be better then messing with some 16 gauge tubing and sloppy fits.

At least in theory!

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

I've never seen "black" oilite?!?!? Your right in that they should give me a much closer tolerance. Although the tubing I was looking at was a .502 ID and the bolts were a .498 OD.. that's pretty close for hardware, but I like the oilite for it's non-corroding properties and that's worth a lot when it saves your knuckles!!

As always.. AWESOME ideas guys!! Thanks

KS

_________________
Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein

You meet some of the nicest folks some days... makes up for the ones that aren't so nice I deal with at work! Let me explain...

I go off to meet the man about a engine... it's a smoking deal to start with... A know running 1.8 VW Long Block with only 81k on the clock for $175.

So I look at the engine.. nice deal.. little bit of cleaning, but it'll do nicely! So we start chatting about his VW. A little 89 Cabbie. He pumps me for some info on it since VWs are my thing. I happily exchange some knowledge with him. A bit later we start to load the engine and I mention my need for a hoist now that I have an engine. "You want this one?" A nice 2 ton monster. "How much?" $50. As I shake the wax from my ears.. $50?!? Yep.. it's yours!

So the guy volunteers to help me get it back to my house a few miles away. We talk a bit more and I supply him with some VW tidbits for his car from my stock piles. We talk some more and I finally ask for the total so I can get his cash out. "Well.. how about $100 for the engine and the $50 for the lift." "Not $225?!?!" Nah.. I like you. Your a cool guy! Stunned I happily hand him $160 and offer the $10 for gas.

So as car guys do... we talk more and the subject of rims and tires comes up. He hates the ones on his car now. "You want some 16v Teardrops", I ask? "You have a set?" (Its a VW thing!) I show him the complete set with center caps and extra caps too. "How much?" $50. "OK, Heres $60" (Neither one of us had change so we were simply passing the $20s back and forth, hence the tips!)

So more talking ensues.. "You need an engine stand for that thing now?" "Yeah" "Come buy the house this weekend and I'll give you the one I got on CL for $20... you can have it.. you need it more than I do now!" Slowly picking jaw up off floor...

We talk more... He has a buddy that he'll get me together with that with gently inspect the vehicle and grease the ways with the vehicle authority in WA, DEQ.

A few hand shakes later.. stunned.. I walk into the garage to start playing with my toys. The wife can't believe the story and wanted to check the wallet to make sure I didn't spend more than I told her I was!

So.. making it's initial Locost Debut.. the one... the only... 1.8!!! Soon to be a 1.8t!! 94hp of solid steel, soon to be as pumped as McGuire during the 70HR seaon!! Now on with the show!

KS

_________________
Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein

Congratulations on what sounds like a really great day! Having a few of the right friends can make a world of difference when taking on projects like building your own car.

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.. in the world

Nice score on the engine and shop tools. Plus you made a new friend!

Can't beat that with a stick!

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766