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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 12:52 am 
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OK.. set up a Dropbox account and uploaded some more of the build pics. I'll keep those updated with ALL the pics.. only ruining your day with the most important ones! :)

So here is the weekends progress!
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Enjoy and comment as needed!

KS

p.s. Wife was excited.. "It actually looks like a car now!".. she didn't notice the missing scale yet.... :roll:

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Last edited by botbasher on January 23, 2016, 7:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 2:00 am 
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So how much did the axle weigh? :lol:

That's not a Tbird 8.8, what did you end up getting? It does look like it's in good shape and it's definitely lighter than the Tbird setup. Holy long nose though.


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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 2:36 am 
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firebat45 wrote:
So how much did the axle weigh? :lol:
That's not a Tbird 8.8, what did you end up getting? It does look like it's in good shape and it's definitely lighter than the Tbird setup. Holy long nose though.


#50 even. It came out of a 93, but it had been replaced since. I hate when people have oil leaks in their cars and don't simply fix it, but I guess then we wouldn't get the gems we do!! It was covered in muck, but it was from the front of the car. A little cleaning and it's as good as new!

I thought about the nose... Looked at the issues Tanner had with the lack of the PPF eating mounts.. Looked at some of the other types mounting issues... I figured that the added length will only help me to keep the twist down and gave me two nice places to mount it from. Should make it nice and tidy! Found a nice option to mount the rear this afternoon! Going to modify a Subi dogbone to act as a iso mount!

Ah.. too bad the family is in town this weekend.. so many ideas.. so little time!!

KS

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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 2:48 am 
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93 what? Sorry if you said it somewhere, I looked and you never mentioned a make/model?

If it didn't have a PPF stock (doesn't look like a miata diff) then it should be fine. Longer arms means less stress on the mounts, the long nose should keep twisting forces down.


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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 9:12 am 
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botbasher wrote:
...It was covered in muck, but it was from the front of the car..

Have you made sure the engine's rotation direction won't drive the differential backwards?

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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 10:04 am 
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Looks like an R160, which is in the Subaru, 510, and some toyota 4x4 trucks, IIRC.


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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 11:24 am 
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KB58 wrote:
botbasher wrote:
...It was covered in muck, but it was from the front of the car..

Have you made sure the engine's rotation direction won't drive the differential backwards?


Wow.. KB58.. you had me thinking for a sec. It's amazing how sure you can be of something till someone asks a questions and then the house comes tumbling down. :shock:

To my memory, the only recent cars that this was an issue with was the Hondas. A quick search turns up several voices of the chours..

"As far as I know, Hondas are the sole exception to the "all engines spin clockwise" rule. Late model Hondas no longer spin counterclockwise and now have gone to clockwise rotation as well, so they can sell their engines to other manufacturers (like GM.)"

"So does the engine rotate clockwise when looking at it from the front on a 2000 Outback 2.5L? Yes"

A quick trip to the garage confirms that both the Subi Diff and Toyota Trans both work clockwise... Whew!! :D

Don't scare a fella like that before he's had his morning caffeine!! 8)

KS

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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 12:01 pm 
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jl wrote:
Looks like an R160, which is in the Subaru, 510, and some toyota 4x4 trucks, IIRC.


jl and firebat45,

Yes, it came out of a 93 Subaru Legacy. It's the 4.11 with the VLSD. Not the optimum gear ratio, but it'll get me rolling and be easy enough to swap and resell later considering the condition it's in! It was this or waiting to find a 3.97 from a WRX. Having run it through a calc, it wasn't enough of a gain to warrant the wait. Time will tell! Moving along with the build is more important to me right now.

Yes, jl... the compatibility across so many lines was what prompted me to accept it as a donor. Well, that and timely suggestion from horizenjob to look into them. Thanks horizenjob!!! I was headed to the Ford drivetrain school of thought with stops along the way at Porsche and Alfa (owned a couple so I know them well.), but the lack of parts availability prompted me to rethink it quickly. No good having an exotic drivetrain if you can't fix it when it breaks down while driving in the hills! Subi's are a dime a dozen up here so I feel a bit more comfortable with it.

The Ford would have been as great a donor for availibility, but as it's been noted, my build is a bit on the heavy side to begin with, so 10-15lbs saved here will do a lot for my final weigh-in! I was told they can be in the 65lbs area unless you plan perfectly and I just didn't want to have to hope to find the perfect donors. Damn Cash-For-Clunkers has really dried up the supply if viable donors in this area!

KS

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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 12:29 pm 
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firebat45 wrote:
If it didn't have a PPF stock (doesn't look like a miata diff) then it should be fine. Longer arms means less stress on the mounts, the long nose should keep twisting forces down.


Yes, that was the plan... I followed Mr. Tanners build and noticed he had issues with the front mounting of the Mazda Diff without the PPF. That coupled with finding effective mounts for the "wings" made it not my favorite choice. I've done the silicone in the mount trick on other cars and it never lasted long. Part of the reason I was hip on the Ford as it used a totally different type of mounting.

horizenjob pointed me at the Subi diff. Given the small package, the long nose (for both ease of mounting and torque resistance) I decided to use it. Since I had no tunnel yet, I could build it to suit! Perfect! IMHO

KS

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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 12:38 pm 
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what do u do? I ask because I get in the garage most nights when I get home and don't get the kinda progress you have got. kudos to you though

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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 1:03 pm 
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So what hubs/uprights are you going to connect the Suby axles to?


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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 2:50 pm 
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I think the confusion from KB58 is due to the fact that you stated you got the diff from the front of a car. It's actually the rear diff you are using from a Subaru. I think it will be a good choice. May not handle 300 HP, but I think that is one of those things that sounds great to have, but you won't miss it. These cars can be plenty fun with 100-200 horsepower.

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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 4:17 pm 
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nkw8181 wrote:
what do u do? I ask because I get in the garage most nights when I get home and don't get the kinda progress you have got. kudos to you though

I'm a Service Manager currently, but that's only the most recent phase of my colorful career choices.

*deleted* by me after re-reading it for sounding like a pompus a_ _!! Sorry Guys!

KS

p.s. working from home kinda cuts down the commute time and adds to the garage time!! 8)

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Last edited by botbasher on October 7, 2009, 2:15 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 4:44 pm 
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Glen wrote:
So what hubs/uprights are you going to connect the Suby axles to?


After a few posts I read last night, I'm almost back to using the Subie's, but I am still open to suggestions.

I have seen a few self-made version that I think would work well with the Subie bearing housing, so unless I find an easier option.. like cutting the shafts in half and grafting on a Mazda CV joint.. I'm pretty sure I'll go that road.

Any suggestions or inputs are greatly appreciated!

KS

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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 4:59 pm 
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horizenjob wrote:
I think the confusion from KB58 is due to the fact that you stated you got the diff from the front of a car. It's actually the rear diff you are using from a Subaru. I think it will be a good choice. May not handle 300 HP, but I think that is one of those things that sounds great to have, but you won't miss it. These cars can be plenty fun with 100-200 horsepower.


No... sorry for the confusion.. the MUCK was from the front of the car.. the diff is from the rear! Trans was leaking and coated the under carriage with hard grease/dirt. Even the pressure washer couldn't get it off!! Had to scrape it off!

Unless the engine of my planning drops into my lap for cheap... I'm probably going to start with a nice tame 1.8l (~100hp) out of a older VW and play and tinker there while sorting out the car. Then when funds present (tax time is coming!!) I'll get a nice 1.8t engine and turn up the wick on it. If it breaks.. I'll fix or redesign it. To me that's part of the fun!

Yes, 100hp can be fun.. my 84 put down 118hp at the wheels (up from 96 at the crank stock) and I would surprise and shame nearly any Ricer that tried to go light to light with me. Even got a Vette and Moustang in the hills.. they'd pull me in and pass on the straights, but I'd get him in the corners! REALLY GOOD BRAKES and not fearful of trading paint tends to give you an edge!! Yes, 100hp can be fun too!

KS

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