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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: October 1, 2009, 11:51 pm 
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Playing catch up.. Here is a snippet of the pics to date. I'll start a Flicker or Photo bucket to house all the pics!
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File comment: Who says things in life are not B&W?? The last pics of my 84 Gli and my 05 Gli before the new owner picked it up. 3 weeks and he's already been stopped twice!!
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DSC_8384.JPG [ 58.95 KiB | Viewed 2624 times ]

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Last edited by botbasher on January 23, 2016, 7:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: October 2, 2009, 9:06 pm 
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www.blackforestmotorsport.com

i live, eat, breathe and sleep all that is VW Audi, let me know if you need any parts as we have plenty ways of getting what we need. this goes for anyone on here as well since it's a small community.

i'm in the early brain storming/pre planning stages. i was originally planning a bike motor build, but having all sorts of stupid VW crap everywhere it only makes sense to go otherwise.


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PostPosted: October 2, 2009, 11:09 pm 
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botbasher wrote:
Day two and I had to take my first test drive.


I jumped up on my table and did that probably 50 times before the frame finally came off the table.
Something about it was just fun and every new tube you weld in makes it better than before! :D :cheers:


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PostPosted: October 3, 2009, 1:17 am 
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Spam16v wrote:
www.blackforestmotorsport.com

i live, eat, breathe and sleep all that is VW Audi, let me know if you need any parts as we have plenty ways of getting what we need. this goes for anyone on here as well since it's a small community.

i'm in the early brain storming/pre planning stages. i was originally planning a bike motor build, but having all sorts of stupid VW crap everywhere it only makes sense to go otherwise.


Be careful, I might just take you up on that!! :cheers:

I thought the same thing.. with 18 years of VW experience, 12 years of Water-cooled, it was silly for me to think I was going to learn a whole new power plant. Easier to figure out how to turn the engine than relearn all the technology!!

What I need is a "in" with someone at Donkervort to get one of their bell housings!! I got my 1st born up for the man that can get one of those!! OK, maybe not the kid, but nearly anything else! :lol:

Thanks for the thought.. we'll have to chat later!!

KS

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Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein


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PostPosted: October 3, 2009, 1:21 am 
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Daed wrote:
botbasher wrote:
Day two and I had to take my first test drive.


I jumped up on my table and did that probably 50 times before the frame finally came off the table.
Something about it was just fun and every new tube you weld in makes it better than before! :D :cheers:


Glad to see I wasn't the only one that "just had to drive"! I did wait till I had the cockpit framed and I did refrain from "vroom Vroom"ing.. but it was hard! Need at least a wheel to do that properly. Maybe this Sun as I'm off to find a rack tomorrow! I hear there is a yard in Portland with Mazdas, VWs, Audis and Toyotas... not normal for yards up here! Talk about a gold mine!!

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Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein


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PostPosted: October 3, 2009, 1:39 am 
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OK... Weigh In!!!! :ack:

I have been toiling over the numbers and quite frankly you guys got me to thinking.. What if the damn thing is too heavy??

So I pilfered the scale out of the wife's bathroom and headed out to the garage!

It showed me #40 on the front and #98 on the back for a grand total of #138!! :D Looking good so far...

I tallied up the metal and it makes it close enough for the govt bean counters I work with!! I started with 160ft of 1x1x.120 (#230) and 80ft of .75x.75x.065 (#49) or ~#280 of steel. I have 40ft of 1" and 70ft of .75 left with #12 of scrap in the bucket.

Given the inaccuracies of the methods of measuring.. spit the diff with what it says and what the math shows (probably #5 worth of filings in the shop vac!!) and the frame is approx #150lbs!!!

So I can rest a little easier tonight. I found a couple of papers on the Aussie sites stating "book" frame weights in the high 100's, so if I keep it on a strict diet from here on out, I shouldn't be to far off the mark and have a "bombproof" frame! :P

I'm looking forward to a bit of yard hounding tomorrow.. been a while since I prowled the yards!

KS

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Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein


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PostPosted: October 3, 2009, 4:39 pm 
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I hate Core Charges!!! There is no possibility that we are ever going to get them back considering that we are BUILDING a car from the parts!! :evil:

Found a Subi Diff in very good shape with nice half shafts.. make nice Ebay or donor parts.

Found a rack from a 81 Mazda "something". Nice little manual rack. Got the column from the same car. Very simple and light.

Speaking of light... I have a definitive answer... For the record... A '93 Subi Diff w complete half shafts is #75 on the nose. I'll pull the shafts in a bit and weigh the diff alone, but at least we have an assembly weight to start from! *edit* Diff alone is #50.. halfs are a bit over #12

Get some pics up soon as I clean them up!

KS

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Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein


Last edited by botbasher on October 5, 2009, 10:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: October 3, 2009, 6:26 pm 
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Location: Buffalo, NY USA
mazda knuckles work with the subbie half shafts i take it? definitely going to watch this build. sorry if i pester you...

what oil pan are you going to use? i bet you could use a hybrid (steel and aluminum) oil pan and use a flat plate instead of the lower steel portion to get a few inches of ground clearance if you restructure the oil system a little to recover the capacity with an external cooler, lines and a beefy domestic remote mounted filter.

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PostPosted: October 4, 2009, 1:19 am 
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botbasher wrote:
I hate Core Charges!!! There is no possibility that we are ever going to get them back considering that we are BUILDING a car from the parts!! :evil:


So return some other junk starter/alternator/engine/whatever a week later. You think the guy behind the counter is going to know the difference?

-dave

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PostPosted: October 4, 2009, 2:29 am 
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Spam16v wrote:
mazda knuckles work with the subbie half shafts i take it? definitely going to watch this build. sorry if i pester you...
what oil pan are you going to use? i bet you could use a hybrid (steel and Aluminium) oil pan and use a flat plate instead of the lower steel portion to get a few inches of ground clearance if you restructure the oil system a little to recover the capacity with an external cooler, lines and a beefy domestic remote mounted filter.


I believe the splines are different, but with these and some mazda ones, I'm sure a hybrid won't be too hard to make up... machine shops are wonderful places!!

Yes, I am going to chop the pan off, use a RX7 cooler and a CM Racing remote filter to make life easier for the oil changes (oh.. my.. once a year!) and to boost the clearance. Did the same basic thing on my 84, except the pan and it worked awesome. Oil barely got above 250 in even the most spirited driving!

What are your plans for your attempt?

KS

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Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein


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PostPosted: October 4, 2009, 2:40 am 
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dhempy wrote:
botbasher wrote:
I hate Core Charges!!! There is no possibility that we are ever going to get them back considering that we are BUILDING a car from the parts!! :evil:


So return some other junk starter/alternator/engine/whatever a week later. You think the guy behind the counter is going to know the difference?

-dave


I would, but it's listed on the receipt as to what it is. Wouldn't have been a problem a few years ago as I had tons of spares for the Jetta hanging around! Ditched most all of it when I moved to WA.

I hate it, but it wasn't too bad in the end. I spent $20 more than I was going to on Ebay for the Diff alone and I got both halfs (in really nice shape), a rack and a column to play with. Some times there is a silver lining in the darkest of clouds!

KS

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Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein


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PostPosted: October 4, 2009, 11:36 am 
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botbasher wrote:

What are your plans for your attempt?

KS


i'm still in the brain storming stages, originally it was R1 or FZ1 (lower profile due to angle of the intake ports on the detuned FZ) with a BMW rear diff (backwards rotation) and use MK2 or MK3 vw knuckles all around, b/c they're cheap and readily available. and then figure out some sort of gear reduction starter for a push button reverse. but i don't think the wife would like to ride in something screaming 12k to make 150-175hp b/c that's where the power is. so since i'm waist deep in VW/Audi scrap all the time and have access to parts, probably a 1.8t, hybrid pan, stock everything running on 034 Motorsport's standalone on a mild tune. stock K03 or K03S turbo should have plenty to get me in trouble, and have mild enough manners to be pleasant to drive as they spool up to full boost near 1800rpm and full toque at idle almost. i may run a full locking diff out of an old audi b/c the flanges will be easier to swap joints and shafts to make VW knuckles work and an off the shelf choke cable will engage/disengage for full locked or open diff, that plus my friend has 10 or 12 4000's and 5000's already disassembled. stock 9.4 GTI/16v rotors will work fine with a mk4 alloy rear calliper with a simple adapter for rear parking brakes and then use some 10.1 or G60 for the fronts to get a little forward bias and still fit them under 15" wheels with affordable tires and just gut and torch off some old outter cups to hold the hubs in. trying to cram down to fit under 13" is going to be frustrating and 13" street tires are a mythical item as my car may see some cones or a track day at best. 4x100 wheels are plentiful locally, so i could change them whenever i wanted if i built my car to accept the offset of a golf/jetta. plus having front and rear parts being the same will make serviceability simple, 75mm wheel bearings cost me $25, and i have a SIR Tools wheel bearing installer. oem brake parts are dirt cheap, lines and hoses will be easy. i have a wooden crate with 30+ audi/vw axles at work b/c Worldpac sells new Empi and FEQ axles with no cores. what do you need cores for? i have lots of old starters, mk2,3, and a few odd balls. as far as driveline, trying to figure out what trans will work with the adapter so i'm watching and probably going to come close to copying you on that. save me farting around trying to get reverse to work. *so back to you, now that i've drug your thread off topic enough*


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PostPosted: October 4, 2009, 2:04 pm 
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Spam16v wrote:
botbasher wrote:

What are your plans for your attempt?

KS
trying to figure out what trans will work with the adapter so i'm watching and probably going to come close to copying you on that. save me farting around trying to get reverse to work. *so back to you, now that i've drug your thread off topic enough*


There is no such thing as off topic.. just non-sequitor tangents!! :)

I appreciate the thought for the Core parts, but unless your in the Portland area, the shipping would out weight the cost of the cores!!

Yeah, my 05 Jetta is a "tame" beast and it weighs 3000 more than this thing will on it's worst day! It's going to be an interesting ride! I'll keep you in the loop as the to progress!

KS

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Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein


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PostPosted: October 4, 2009, 3:01 pm 
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botbasher wrote:
I hate Core Charges!!! There is no possibility that we are ever going to get them back considering that we are BUILDING a car from the parts!! :evil:

KS


I totally agree with the core charge statement. I bought my spindles and brakes from a junk yard in Augusta, GA and they first told me one price then when I got it to the counter after 1 1/2 hours of working to get it apart they said we didn't know you wanted the whole thing thats going to be more. So after I get over the shock of them telling me it would be more they tack on a core charge for everything; rotors, backing plates, calipers, caliper brackets, and one tie rod end. I argued with the guy for 10 minutes about cores on everything except the calipers but they wouldn't budge so I ended up buying everything and told them I would never be back. Luckily I found another junk yard that same day that only charged cores on things that can be rebuilt.


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PostPosted: October 5, 2009, 4:01 pm 
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Wrxconedodger wrote:
Luckily I found another junk yard that same day that only charged cores on things that can be rebuilt.


We need more of them in the world!! :cheers:

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Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein


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